Old wells

[Highbeam]

"that is what back flow preventers are for, similar to a check valve, the city system SHOULD be at or above 60 lbs to prevent any contamination from getting a foot hold inside the pipes. it is required around ohio to have these check valves/ backflow preventors installed up stream of the meter and is usually the citys equipment (some do charge a feeuntill it is paid for though depending onn city charter & regualtions.)

anyhow there is a good concern about certain terrousts activities that most people are not aware of and that is pne of the primary reasons for higher pressures to KILL BACTERIA which could be introduced and prevent any from taking any footholds."

Uh, yeah, it doesn't work like that. The higher pressure has nothing to do with bacteria's ability to live or contaminants ability to spread. Filtration and chemical treatment (chlorine) is how we handle the impurities. The backflow device functions to prevent backflow but is not dependable enough to be used to prevent backflow in a system with dual feeds such as when you have a well feeding your plumbing AND the city supply. We do not want the risk of some yahoo backfilling the city system with his well water.

It is not typical in Washington to have a backflow prevention device on every water service. It is only required under certain circumstances such as when a sprinkler system is installed. So yes, your neighbor can likely pump nasty water backwards into the city system if he is so inclined and is willing to do some simple plumbing and pumping. Yet another argument to maintain your private well system instead of switching to city water.

 

[KennedyDiesel]

I came into this late so forgive me if I missed something, but around here modern submersible pumps have nothing more than a pressure switch to cycle them. You could use a breaker to activate it. Most are 220v so you'd want a dual breaker.

If there is no pipe coming out the top, you likely have a pitless adapter coming out the side of the casing. You can look inside the well casing and see where the pipe hangs on the side. The pump/pipe assy is lowered into the slot on the pitless where it wedges in seals to the pitless. The pitless typically has 3/4" or 1" F NPT threads. A "T" pipe is lowered into the casing and threaded into the pitless to pull it up.

I see no reason why you couldn't pull it up and try to power it. Water should stand sufficiently high in the casing that it should deliver water if the pump works. If not, keep pulling it up and take it out. All you need to do is cut or uncouple the pipes. Pump guys use a pair of C-grips vice grips with a plit pipe nipple welded to them along with legs so that it cannot fall in, They clamp these onto the standpipe to hold while coupling or cutting.

I can go further if you like. It is actually a DIY job...

 

[dummy]

<font color="blue"> I can go further if you like. It is actually a DIY job... </font> In all reality, what isn't? Between the public library and the internet for technical information and the availablity of common and specialized tools there aren't too many things I can think of that can't be repaired by yourself. Some of the best advice I was given, "If it's already broke, how are you going to screw it up more? Take it apart and try to repair it".

 

[Chuck52]

OK. So I guess I'm back to the plan of trying it out to see if it works. We've had so much rain lately that irrigation hasn't been on my mind, but here in the middle of Mizzery it is sure to come a long hot dry spell later this summer. Thanks for all the information, folks.

Chuck

 

[KennedyDiesel]

Go for it! There's no mystery

Take a flashlight (on a lanyard around your wrist preferrably) and look down about 6' on the side wall and you should see where the water line exits. This is where you need to dig.

The only thing that I see is that yes, some require a controller (capacitor start) box, but the ones that I have done did not.

I did the complete install from pump to tank and beyond on my dad's new well several years back, and recently redid our deep well jet pump system with a submersible system.

I believe the pump we used here was an Aermotor www.aermotor.com

http://www.aermotor.com/asp/Product.asp?PId=454

 

[timb]

Brian,

Where are you at in W PA?

MAWC (covers Westmoreland County and a little more) has their info on line. In our township - when 'city water' went in - IF you tapped in you had to disconnect your on-site source (well, cistern, whatever) from the household AND add a back-flow device just to prevent your household plumbing from contaminating the municiple supply.

However, you did NOT 'have' to tap in, nor far as I know, did you have to de-activate your old system even if you did. So irrigation use, etc., should still be fine.

However there are and have been various moves afoot in PA to declare ALL water rights as 'public' and control/tax even private wells.

 

[Highbeam]

We're getting a similar thing in washington. A private residential well is supposed to be used for only so many gallons per day and to irrigate no more than 0.5 acres. This has not been enforced and since so much of our public water comes from wells there is a rumbling that the private well guys are "Stealing" public water. The next step is to have private wells metered, you can bet that the next step will be paying for that water. At least it will be from a known source.

 

[Ramon]

I have a well in my barn that I wanted to use for irrigation and the animals. What kind of equipment would I need to get it going. It definitely has water in it as I dropped a bucket on a string in it and pulled some up. There is some old equipment in the well but when I plugged it in, it just made some humming noises so I if it's easier, I would rather just plug and play if it's just a matter of dropping in a pump and hooking it to a garden hose (my ideal scenario for my non handy person). I only have a 110 V outlet above the well but then again, it's only 20 feet deep. Any suggestions?
Thanks

 

[LBrown59]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( There's one I can come close to answering. Oh not so long ago, pump and associated wiring/controls replaced. 250 foot depth , 1 HP submersible, time , labor and materials = $1100.00 The next thing would be whether or not you can get it done. Locally, when "city water" goes in, the old wells are supposed to be condemned, made non-useable and certified as inoperable by the health department. Therefore, the property owner would not be able to get a permit issued for the well work. )</font>

<font color="orange"> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ </font>

<font color="blue">1*Locally, when "city water" goes in, the old wells are supposed to be condemned, made non-useable and certified as inoperable by the health department.
2*Therefore, the property owner would not be able to get a permit issued for the well work.
dummy
<font color="brown"> ********************* </font>

<font color="red"> 1*This is totally outrageous and shows just how ignorant politicians usually are.</font>

<font color="green">2*No permit required here. </font>
</font>

 

[crb478]

Ramon,
first try to prime the pump you have by filling it with water. If it will fill and there is still a foot on the bottom of the pipe it may just work for you. Failing that you can buy a shallow well pump and required plumbing and you should be able to pump water. If you catch a pump on sale you should be able to do it for under 100.00