Once again I need a good screw, Deck screw that is :)

[Oaktree]

Phillips should have been hung and quartered for forcing such an abomination on us.

I don't get the hate on philips head screws. I've rarely had issues with them, and most of that was caused by operator error. Slot-head screws (especially the older ones that had rather shallow slots), yeah, they suck.

 

[WinterDeere]

I don't get the hate on philips head screws. I've rarely had issues with them, and most of that was caused by operator error.

It's honestly not all operator error, as international manufacturers over the last 30 years have gotten pretty fast and loose with actually holding to the standards of the Phillips drive. The worst is that, esp. when dealing with electronics or computer hardware, so many use the Japanese standard equivalent. While their cross-slot screws look a heck of a lot like our Phillips standard, they are completely incompatible drivers.

A properly-designed Phillips screw on a properly designed driver, is a great system. But just like properly-ripened honeydew melon, this is not always easy to find or identify.

 

[ponytug]

I don't get the hate on philips head screws. I've rarely had issues with them, and most of that was caused by operator error. Slot-head screws (especially the older ones that had rather shallow slots), yeah, they suck.

I agree with you on slot screws as well. If you have something that works for you, go for it!

I think that there are about five reasonably common variations on a #2 Philips, and if the fastener is a high torque and/or a corroded fastener, not having the exact one makes rounding off the fastener common, if not probable. I seem to encounter lots of those. I think that there is a reason that we see fewer and fewer slot or cross screws these days. Torx is just a more robust drive system. As @WinterDeere wrote, not having the right drive head/tip is problematic. I have multiple drive sets, but sorting through the various cross drive sizes and types to find "the one" takes time.

I've only had issues with a couple of Torx screws, all due to operator error on my part (bad angle). Philips screw issues, on the other hand, those I lost count of in my childhood.

I pretty much do what @EddieWalker wrote above. I pull out the nail gun for speed framing, and that's about it, everything else is screwed, almost all with Torx.

All the best,

Peter

 

[MMC]

Good topic. I personally agree with getting away from phillips. I have switched almost entirely to Torx screws for farm use (pine, oak, poplar, etc.) and use Bosch or Milwaukee driver tips. I do generally pre-drill for best results (well, maybe not as much for pine).

I have to say good quality and inexpensive are probably not do-able.

This is a brand I have good luck with, in all lengths: "Deck Plus" made by Hillman. I get them delivered from Amazon.

​

 

[newbury]

Well sure enough one of the little frames I built with the

Grip-Rite #9 x 3 in. Star Drive Bugle Head Coarse Thread Construction Screw from Home Depot.

decided it wanted to twist like a pretzel AFTER I put it together, so now I need to sawzall the pieces apart.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

I have some screws on my deck railing that have backed almost completely out.

I'm going to redeck my deck, still trying to decide if I want composite, or just go with wood again. Current wood is over 20 yrs old, and I never got around to staining it, so it's in pretty bad shape. Maybe just go with 2x6 instead of the 5/4 " decking.

 

[ponytug]

I have some screws on my deck railing that have backed almost completely out.

I'm going to redeck my deck, still trying to decide if I want composite, or just go with wood again. Current wood is over 20 yrs old, and I never got around to staining it, so it's in pretty bad shape. Maybe just go with 2x6 instead of the 5/4 " decking.

I highly recommend screws with two different threads for that very reason, like the bottom one in this photo;

 

[EddieWalker]

I have some screws on my deck railing that have backed almost completely out.

I'm going to redeck my deck, still trying to decide if I want composite, or just go with wood again. Current wood is over 20 yrs old, and I never got around to staining it, so it's in pretty bad shape. Maybe just go with 2x6 instead of the 5/4 " decking.

Back when they reformulated how they create Treated Wood, they came up with a system that puts a massive amount of water into the wood. 5/4 decking used to shrink a little before then, now it shrinks so much that it's a really back choice for decking. The last time I priced 5/4 boards, they where more expensive then 2x6's. Even Treated 2x6's shrink a lot. When I install them, I get them as tight together as I can. No spacers between them. In six months, every board will have gaps between them.

Never stain or treat your Treated wood for at least six months. It takes that long to be sure all the water is out of them. Since my clients usually hire me to do the staining, I also rent a 1x2 vibrating sander from Home Depot to sand down the deck before staining it. It doesn't matter if you install Treated 2x6's bark up or down, they will cup on you while drying. The sander fixes all that.

I just wrote a bid last night for Trex decking. She needs 43 Trex boards that are 20 feet long so I can cut them to 10 feet. Trex comes in 12', 16' and 20' lengths. Each 20 foot board is $122. I'm pretty sure that she is going to changer her mind and go with wood instead of Trex. The cost for Trex is just ridiculous. The hidden fasteners to install them are another $420

 

[oosik]

If you are "lucky" - you might even get a choice.

 

[D'oh]

Good Old Canadian Robertson vs US Phillips Battle.

Being Canadian, #2 Robertson all the way until #12x4" Screw, then Torx for bigger or into Hard Wood