one more land plane build

[Stokes760]

I dont think sideways movement really happens unless an aggressive angle or a high moldbord. I was thinking angled blades would work better for averaging beacuse you have cutting edge traversing front to rear instead of a blade at first 1/3 and second 1/3.
My reason for useing a I beam is that it was cheep 1/4 the price per pound thab drops at the local steel yard. Was going to cut at angle when I split the beam but I didnt want to loose any length to the land plane. Was going to use flat bar for wear strips so ill use that for ramps on the front.

 

[jenkinsph]

Nothing wrong with the WF beam you are using imo. Just to clarify that isn't an I beam if it were it would be 40 to 50 lbs/ft with tapered flanges.

Might try to find some 4x4x3/16 or 4x4x1/4 box tubing for the frame, much better than using angle iron. Second choice would be 3x3x1/4 box tubing or 3 to 3.5 extra strong black pipe. Tubing resists twisting much better than angle iron so your skids maintain proper alignment. As long as the cross members are large enough bending isn't the issue here but flexing can be.

For the ends of the skids you could turn the edges up with a 3" radius bend and fill the balance in with a 10" piece of flat bar and not loose much for the skid lengths. Your 5.5 ft pieces for the skids would still wind up being about 5' 2 1/2" long end to end. That works out to 1.72" to round over each end and well worth it imo.

 

[Stokes760]

Yea its a wide flange beam not most people know the difference good call. 4in box 250 wall min 125 wall for the supports and 4x angle 3/8 for blade mounts.

 

[john40981]

My two bobs worth , I have angled blades ( about 25 Deg) and there is very little sideways movement of material. I don't regret making them angled but it doesn't make a crown as it just doesn't move enough material sideways but I think it does cut good. If you are going to pull it with a trailer type hitch instead of a 3pl then based on my experience you will need either a long pull or maybe a low attachment point to stop the rear lifting. I was going to set mine up with a chain top link so it would just hug the ground but the rear lifted too much no matter what setting I used, had to use sold top link to hold the back down. Mine is 7 foot wide and 8 foot long. Good luck with your build, show us lots of photos
link to my build: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/287452-land-plain-blade-height-help.html

 

[EMB5530]

It seems if you cut your beam in half the plane would be a bit short. Maybe split it down the middle length wise so you can make it a little longer.

:2cents:

 

[bandaidmd]

I will ask forgiveness ahead of time if the following questions seem stupid..lol

As i see it the main benefit of a plane is the long runners/skids that allow it to bridge uneven surfaces and level them better than a regular 3ph blade ?

By bolting extended runners to the side of my box blade would i achieve the same benefit?

I could add a second cutter to the leading or trailing edge if having 2 is better than the existing one on the BB.

Opinions welcome

 

[EMB5530]

The material will not spill over the blade to be redistributed evenly therefore filling in holes and plaining the gravel but, it would help keep you from the washboard effect when removing material.

 

[jcummins]

I had a new gravel drive built recently, and from research I've done I want a land plane to maintain it. I'll buy or build...probably build since I already have 2 blades for it.

Question for those on this thread who have built one. How is your blades set relative to the sides. I've read on a different thread, one person had the front blade slightly lower than the sides, and the rear blade was flush with the bottom. And what do you do relative to wear of the blade. Have you build in adjustable ability?...or is it a factor?

 

[BukitCase]

bandaidmd, I have a few pix of mods like that, hopefully I can find the threads -

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/261068-roll-ur-own-land-plane.html

Sorry, that's the only thread I could find.. I also have some pix from TBN of another BB, poster added hydraulic gauge wheels and an optional LONG tongue, making it convertable between 3-point and a pull-behind.

I'll re-post them when I have more time, maybe the owner will respond... Steve

 

[RDrancher]

I had a new gravel drive built recently, and from research I've done I want a land plane to maintain it. I'll buy or build...probably build since I already have 2 blades for it.

Question for those on this thread who have built one. How is your blades set relative to the sides. I've read on a different thread, one person had the front blade slightly lower than the sides, and the rear blade was flush with the bottom. And what do you do relative to wear of the blade. Have you build in adjustable ability?...or is it a factor?

For 3/4" gravel and road base, and initial passes on dirt, I like to run the front blade 1/8" lower than the skids and the rear blade even. I'll change the front blade to even for final passes on dirt...if I'm not being lazy.

If the landplane is not equipped with scarifiers to loosen up hardpack, I can see where running the blades lower for initial passes would be very beneficial, especially with a nice heavy unit.