one more land plane build

   / one more land plane build #21  
The material will not spill over the blade to be redistributed evenly therefore filling in holes and plaining the gravel but, it would help keep you from the washboard effect when removing material.

So part of the effectiveness is the material flowing over the cutters?
Maybe i need to see one operate in person to wrap my head around it but that seems like it would just lift the excess material over the blade and still leave clumps behind it.
 
   / one more land plane build #22  
For 3/4" gravel and road base, and initial passes on dirt, I like to run the front blade 1/8" lower than the skids and the rear blade even. I'll change the front blade to even for final passes on dirt...if I'm not being lazy. :D

If the landplane is not equipped with scarifiers to loosen up hardpack, I can see where running the blades lower for initial passes would be very beneficial, especially with a nice heavy unit.

I've actually never seen a land plane in person, just pictures. How are the blades adjustable? Are the holes holding the blades slotted on the angle supports?
 
   / one more land plane build #25  
I snapped a better photo for you.

Landplane.jpg

Everything attachments has a good video showing one in action. How To - Tractor Land Plane - Gravel Road Maintenance - YouTube
 
   / one more land plane build #27  
Two adjusting methods I've seen:

Blades (and maybe a subframe) move up and down between the side plates.

Blades are fastened rigidly to the side plates, but the skids under the side plates move up and down.

Bruce
 
   / one more land plane build #28  
So part of the effectiveness is the material flowing over the cutters?
Maybe i need to see one operate in person to wrap my head around it but that seems like it would just lift the excess material over the blade and still leave clumps behind it.




Something to keep in mind whenever doing dirt work. Moisture content can make HUGE differences with how the material reacts to what is being done to it.

1st pic is in dry ground, the materials is cut and flows freely over the cutting edges.

2nd pic is with damp ground, material does not flow as freely, but compacts down much better.
 

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   / one more land plane build #29  
I snapped a better photo for you.

View attachment 348895

Everything attachments has a good video showing one in action. How To - Tractor Land Plane - Gravel Road Maintenance - YouTube

Yep that helps. I was thinking the slots was on the angle, not on a side support bolted to the side rails. That is a much easier build that way too. And BCP, your comment clarifies more, in that from pictures I've seen, many land planes do not have that adjustable feature on the sides. The everything land plane as an example, I see no bolts on the side, so I assume the angle supports are slotted. Most of these pictures are not details enough, but it appears both blades are set the same distance below the rails, not as you mentioned with the front one lower. Is it important to have the depth of the blades set differently? Seems the only way to accomplish that is slots in the angle support.

You can probably tell from the questions, I've decided I will build one over this winter....if I can stay warm enough my work area in the barn. Then again I may wait for warmer weather.
 
   / one more land plane build #30  
Here is a thought......
Cut the beam in 3 equal lengths.... Use 2 of these as sides..... Build an angled blade grader..... Flip it over and build a strait blade grader....
Build your 3pt attaching bracket so it can be attached to the grader "box" with either side up....

Has anyone ever done this before ???
BE SURE to post pictures.....

And you will still have a length of the beam left over for another good idea..... !!!!
Good luck
 

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