Opening ditch lines

[Smokeydog]

FEL at right angle to driveway. Ground around ditch is usually soft and do several bucket width scoops to fill bucket. Makes for a clean, deep ditch.

I use a combination of FEL, backhoe and landplane depending on area. My driveway is much steeper.

 

[steve2]

FEL at right angle to driveway. Ground around ditch is usually soft and do several bucket width scoops to fill bucket. Makes for a clean, deep ditch.

I use a combination of FEL, backhoe and landplane depending on area. My driveway is much steeper.

Smokey thanks for response. Unfortunately road ROW isn't wide enough for right angle FEL approach. Also unfortunately do not own backhoe attachment. Is "landplane" a specialized blade?

 

[Smokeydog]

Smokey thanks for response. Unfortunately road ROW isn't wide enough for right angle FEL approach. Also unfortunately do not own backhoe attachment. Is "landplane" a specialized blade?

Use the B26 FEL that’s about perfect size and maneuverability.

Everything Attachments landplane has idled my rear blade and yardbox for driveway maintenance for 6+ years. Easily paid for itself in gravel saved and maintenance time. Wish I had one 50 years ago.

Have used the Paumco quick spade on the FEL. Can offset to side of bucket.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

One of these would make short work of those ditches.

 

[nyone]

One of these would make short work of those ditches.

WV isnt reckless sand and definitely isnt flat.

I dont think a box blade is the right tool. It's going to drag a pile towards the road surface and not allow water to enter the ditch. It's also going to fill up in a few feet.

 

[2manyrocks]

I think the key is whether there is enough adjustment in the OP's dirt blade and 3 pt hitch to get the right angle on the ditch, but I'm doubting there is.

 

[bearthebruce]

We clear all the ditches on the 400 foot drop, half mile driveway with a blade. We can pivot our blade in X, Y, and Z axis in addition to using the top link and the lift arms. We manage to clear the ditches.

Our blade is all manual adjust so we work in small areas, set the blade, do our thing, adjust the blade and repeat in the next area... It takes the better part of a day to run the ditches and not mess things up.

Last year, we added using our new stump bucket to help. Many times we would have a pile of debris at the end of the ditch that needed to be cleared. With the stump bucket, we can straddle the ditch and then clear the very end with the bucket - leaving an open end for the water to get out and away.

With a good crown, we keep the water flow to the sides of the driveway and the erosion down the tire tracks to a minimum. Keeping the crown is also key for our hill.

We're still learning how to keep things working well on this hill.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

WV isnt reckless sand and definitely isnt flat.

I dont think a box blade is the right tool. It's going to drag a pile towards the road surface and not allow water to enter the ditch. It's also going to fill up in a few feet.

If you are talking to me, I linked to a hydraulic rear blade. Why you thought that I was suggesting a box blade only you know.

The OP has a 5' rear blade that I can assure you is a lightweight implement. With an 8'-9' rear blade that weighs 1000lbs or more and has offset capabilities around 35", he can easily rework his ditches.
Just like the pictures show.

 

[sandman2234]

70 hp on a 5' non-offset rear blade, hmmm, might work in Florida but doubt it will work around rocks. Need a 7 foot offset-able heavy duty one!
A pond scoop (dirt scoop) might work, and a middlebuster might break up the ditch so that you can use the 5 foot rear blade without tearing it up.
David from jax

 

[LouNY]

A rear blade having tilt and angle can certainly rip a ditch, offset maks it easier to get it lined up.
If the rear blade is tilted to it's max and angled so the low end is forward it will rip and cut a ditch easily.
A large tractor will destroy a light duty blade.
I will try and remember to get a couple pictures of mine when I clean out my ditches this year.
But with a blade tilted all the way and rotated so the low side is forward almost to the tire the corner will rip a narrow fairly deep ditch easily. It also puts your tractor entire working effect into the very tip of the blade.