Operating Temperatures Help Please

[tcartwri]

hey, i did not burp it, should i just let if run with the cap off to do that? its taking way more water than i would imagine a burping required though, unless this will cause the water level to be way too low and increase temp....

im in colorado, so high alt. but like i said its maxing out the temp gauges.

Top it up while it's running at about 1000 rpm, wait for the thermostat to open ( could take a while ) and keep adding until all the air is out. The rad cap should be the highest point in the cooling system when you do this, so you may have to drive it up an incline slightly.

Secondly, you should go and get a rad cap that's rated for a few pounds more than what is installed now. The higher altitude lessens the rating of the cap.

And obviously, check for obstructions in the fins.

 

[JoeL4330]

OP mentioned coolant flowing out of hose ...sounds like no coolant recovery bottle: as coolant heats it expands, radiator "overflows"; overflow collects in bottle and, then, when engine cools down, coolant is sucked back into the radiator from the bottle. If you look at your car's recovery container, there are likely two level marks, cool and hot ...the difference is how much expansion is expected and, if that is that is approximately the amount you "lose" through the hose, that would be perfectly normal. You can install same; JCWhitney and the like probably have retrofit kits available.

Lots of good advice from posters above, like making sure radiator fins are clear and that pressure cap is correct and operating ...make sure fan is working and check belt tension? Make sure hoses are not collapsing and/or replace ...another thing I'd do is flush the radiator ...available chemicals and kits at any auto parts store ... continue until the water runs clear. Another thing to try is to validate the engine/water temp as gauges are not always perfectly calibrated.

If any of that helps, let us know ...if not, there are more drastic things to consider.

 

[Mace Canute]

Start off doing the easy no or low cost stuff first, like making sure the rad isn't partially plugged...blow it out from the opposite direction of air flow. If you have an infra red temperature gun you can use it to verify the temperature gauge reading and the thermostat also. You can also use it to check the cooling efficiency of your radiator....the area closest to the inlet will be the hottest and the outlet will be the coolest. BTW, these temperature guns have a lot of uses only limited by a person's imagination. For what a quality one costs, it's well worth it to have one. Rad caps can and do fail. They are relatively cheap (or should be) so trying a new one is often a good idea. Thermostats are a little more in depth (sorry for the bad pun) but might also be the culprit. Sometimes you can peek in through the rad cap opening and see if there is any buildup on the inside of the little tubes that the coolant flows through...that can prevent the rad from doing it's job.

 

[Leonard]

I'm no expert but one of the things I check when temps run hot is the air filter.

 

[amaxwell]

As several have stated check the radiator for air flow, most small tractors are just tall enough to catch lots of weed seeds and blooms which clog the air flow. I had to remove my radiator and use a plastic strip to push thru the spaces between the fins to clear them.Over the 35 previous years they were cloged beyond air or water cleaning them. Now no more getting hot.

 

[JoeinTX]

The Saskatoon Sage and others are right. Do the simple stuff. Is the radiator screen clear? Is the fluid level in the rad' normal? Diesels don't overheat like the average gas engine machine.

If you're using it normally for normal ops within normal ranges...........should be no problem. The fan "not working"........?

I trend toward thinking it's a gauge or wiring issue. The tractor shouldn't have a hard time cooling itself under 95% of conditions.

 

[piperc744]

ok, i took out the thermostat, and it seems to be the problem...

i took a lighter to it and got no reaction at all... must be shot?

so i went to town to try to find one that is similar and could be used to replace it, no luck at autozone and checker auto...

ordered new one online from farmproparts.com and until then i will run it without the thermostat.

is this ok u think? will only be for less than a week.

 

[JoeL4330]

glad you isolated the problem (usual way to check 'stat is in a pot of boiling water)

won't hurt to run for a while w.o. thermostat ...engine just might not run as efficiently

 

[piperc744]

ok, update:

even with the thermostat completely removed... its still doing the same thing...

i ordered a thermostat already too....

neway, ive removed the radiator, and in the morning will take it to a shop to get cleaned out and checked out, i know i saw some chalky white buildup in there so it may also be the problem.

 

[JoeL4330]

Bummer...thought you might have nailed it with the thermostat. Hope the radiator fix works for you