90 to 100 deg C is normal.... I'm not sure why you are obsessing over this. If it was less than 80 when you are working it, then it would be more of a concern to me. What is the temperature on the stat? It should be stamped on it somewhere.
Operating Temperatures Help Please
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BXpanded
Silver Member, Approved Advertiser
The recovery catch bottles are a fairly recent addition. At least to some of us. The older cars and tractors simply had an open hose as the OP described. After filling the radiator completely (which was not recommended), it was normal for them to blow out some coolant, particularly after the engine was shut down. The coolant should end up about 3/4 inch or so from the top and stay there. That left the required room for expansion. The excess went on the ground. Now that goes into the tank.
If the machine is obviously overheating, blowing steam while it's running, requiring the 1/2 gallon of coolant every two days to keep it at the 3/4 inch level, that's a different situation and is not normal.
Most of the fixes have been described already.
If the machine is obviously overheating, blowing steam while it's running, requiring the 1/2 gallon of coolant every two days to keep it at the 3/4 inch level, that's a different situation and is not normal.
Most of the fixes have been described already.
thanks for the help guys, about to take off for the radiator cleaning.
@ tcartwri, i should be running 72 C actually, not 100+. over 100 and im boiling past 212 F, i should be at a safe 160-180 F and the thermostat may not even have been the correct one, its a long stem, the one i ordered from farmproparts.com says its a shortstem... and if this was normal temp, i would not have excess coolant blasting out the overflow hose after it passes 100... im not obsessing, im trying to fix my tractor so i can work, actually u can say i am obsessing, my work is my life....
BXpanded: will look into the recovery catch bottles now, its a 2005, not sure if thats considered older model, but ill definitely look into it though, thanks.
@ tcartwri, i should be running 72 C actually, not 100+. over 100 and im boiling past 212 F, i should be at a safe 160-180 F and the thermostat may not even have been the correct one, its a long stem, the one i ordered from farmproparts.com says its a shortstem... and if this was normal temp, i would not have excess coolant blasting out the overflow hose after it passes 100... im not obsessing, im trying to fix my tractor so i can work, actually u can say i am obsessing, my work is my life....
BXpanded: will look into the recovery catch bottles now, its a 2005, not sure if thats considered older model, but ill definitely look into it though, thanks.
JoeL4330
Platinum Member
coolant "blasting out" when temp gets to 100C suggests to me that your radiator cap (pressure cap) is not functioning properly. In addition to whatever else you may find wrong, you may need a new cap ...or, you may have an air leak elsewhere in the system.
There are caps w. pressure indicator that can be used to check that the system can hold the pressure, as it should
There are caps w. pressure indicator that can be used to check that the system can hold the pressure, as it should
72 is only 160 F . Not ideal for your bearings.
You skipped over the question about your elevation above sea level.... It is an important detail, because your rad cap is spec'd for sea level. If you are at say 6000 ft, you can derate the caps rating by 2psi... and that is why it's blowing coolant. Not because it's overheating.
On virtually every diesel I operate, 100C is bang in the middle of the normal operating range.
turns out the radiator was really clogged up with gunk inside and out... worse than i thought... but its all good now, doing what its supposed to.
also, im not saying ur wrong about the operating temp, after all i am here asking for advice... but my question is: why is the middle of the temp gauge 80, and the top end 100 if im supposed to run at 100 or more? just does not make sense to me, and the farm pro/ jinma etc... parts dealer is telling me 72 is what these tractors should run which is 160-180 range, the thermostat i had in there was a 192, but also turns out to be the wrong stat as well... previous owner threw it in there for whatever reason i presume...
as for altitude im at about 6k.
what pressure cap should i be using in this case then? the one i have looks like a 16 psi.
also, im not saying ur wrong about the operating temp, after all i am here asking for advice... but my question is: why is the middle of the temp gauge 80, and the top end 100 if im supposed to run at 100 or more? just does not make sense to me, and the farm pro/ jinma etc... parts dealer is telling me 72 is what these tractors should run which is 160-180 range, the thermostat i had in there was a 192, but also turns out to be the wrong stat as well... previous owner threw it in there for whatever reason i presume...
as for altitude im at about 6k.
what pressure cap should i be using in this case then? the one i have looks like a 16 psi.
JoeL4330
Platinum Member
I would say that, generally, the engine should run at the temp spec of the thermostat, which should be at the manufacturer's spec; and, you are correct, that most good gauge design puts the normal operating range in the center of the dial.
Separately, the pressure cap should hold an increase in the pressure of the cooling system sufficient that boiling does not occur within the normal operating range. As pointed out, pressure point should be higher with higher elevation because water boils at lower and lower temperature as elevation rises (i.e., as atmospheric pressure decreases). Make sure your cap is working correctly and that there is no leak such that air is entering the system somewhere else. [the safe way to check is with a cap outfitted with a pressure gauge; the unsafe way to check: once at full operating temp, shut off the engine, guard your hand with a large thick towel, and depress the cap BUT DON'T UNSCREW IT]
All should be well now that the radiator has been flushed. Some expansion of the fluid would normally provide some initial overflow through the hose if the system had just been topped up. Afterwards, the water level when cold generally sits just at the level of the core and expansion will no longer cause an overflow. With the cap off at start-up, you should be able to watch water level rise as the engine heats up and the thermostat opens. You might see some bubbles, but be wary if you see a fairly steady stream of small bubbles, which could indicate a blown head gasket (hopefully not).
I'm guessing you know you should be running a 50:50 antifreeze:water mix, even in the hottest weather, because the antifreeze provides better heat transfer than plain water.
Separately, the pressure cap should hold an increase in the pressure of the cooling system sufficient that boiling does not occur within the normal operating range. As pointed out, pressure point should be higher with higher elevation because water boils at lower and lower temperature as elevation rises (i.e., as atmospheric pressure decreases). Make sure your cap is working correctly and that there is no leak such that air is entering the system somewhere else. [the safe way to check is with a cap outfitted with a pressure gauge; the unsafe way to check: once at full operating temp, shut off the engine, guard your hand with a large thick towel, and depress the cap BUT DON'T UNSCREW IT]
All should be well now that the radiator has been flushed. Some expansion of the fluid would normally provide some initial overflow through the hose if the system had just been topped up. Afterwards, the water level when cold generally sits just at the level of the core and expansion will no longer cause an overflow. With the cap off at start-up, you should be able to watch water level rise as the engine heats up and the thermostat opens. You might see some bubbles, but be wary if you see a fairly steady stream of small bubbles, which could indicate a blown head gasket (hopefully not).
I'm guessing you know you should be running a 50:50 antifreeze:water mix, even in the hottest weather, because the antifreeze provides better heat transfer than plain water.
Mace Canute
Elite Member
Sorry, not true. Scroll down to "Increase in Flow required for a 50% Ethylene Glycol Solution" at THIS SITE. where it says "Increase in circulated flow for 50% ethylene glycol solutions compared with clean water are indicated in the table below". The extra flow is required because the 50/50 glycol mix does not transfer heat as well as straight water and to make up for that, extra flow is needed.
From 14 Rules for Improving Engine Cooling System Capability in High-Performance Automobiles
BTW, there's a lot of good information in that site concerning cooling systems.
JoeL4330
Platinum Member
Yep, good site:
"Check The Strength
Checking the strength of the coolant to determine the concentration of antifreeze in the coolant is just as important for hot weather driving as it is for cold weather. A 50/50 mixture of ethylene glycol (EG) antifreeze and water will provide boiling protection up to about 255ï½° with a 15 psi cap, and freezing protection down to -34ï½° F. By comparison, a 50/50 mixture of propylene glycol (PG) antifreeze and water will provide boiling protection to 257° F and freezing protection to -26° F.
Increasing the concentration of antifreeze in the coolant will raise its boiling temperature and lower its freezing point. Even so, the maximum concentration of antifreeze should usually be limited to 65% to 70% because too much antifreeze and not enough water reduces the coolantç—´ ability to carry heat - which increases the risk of overheating in hot weather"
If, for some reason I was running water, might I add lubes and rust inhibitors?
to the OP, note also: "If the system does not hold pressure, you've found an internal leak. Now you have to figure out where. Check the level and appearance of the oil on the dipstick for coolant contamination in the crankcase. A higher-than-normal oil level and/or a foamy appearance to the oil or droplets of coolant on the dipstick would tell you the engine has a leaky head gasket or cracked block. "
And, thnx again for the link.
"Check The Strength
Checking the strength of the coolant to determine the concentration of antifreeze in the coolant is just as important for hot weather driving as it is for cold weather. A 50/50 mixture of ethylene glycol (EG) antifreeze and water will provide boiling protection up to about 255ï½° with a 15 psi cap, and freezing protection down to -34ï½° F. By comparison, a 50/50 mixture of propylene glycol (PG) antifreeze and water will provide boiling protection to 257° F and freezing protection to -26° F.
Increasing the concentration of antifreeze in the coolant will raise its boiling temperature and lower its freezing point. Even so, the maximum concentration of antifreeze should usually be limited to 65% to 70% because too much antifreeze and not enough water reduces the coolantç—´ ability to carry heat - which increases the risk of overheating in hot weather"
If, for some reason I was running water, might I add lubes and rust inhibitors?
to the OP, note also: "If the system does not hold pressure, you've found an internal leak. Now you have to figure out where. Check the level and appearance of the oil on the dipstick for coolant contamination in the crankcase. A higher-than-normal oil level and/or a foamy appearance to the oil or droplets of coolant on the dipstick would tell you the engine has a leaky head gasket or cracked block. "
And, thnx again for the link.
