Optima Battery Update

[CVHoss]

For those who were curious about the Optima battery, here's the follow-up to the replacement for my 4400. I ordered a 51R Optima battery. The R just means the positive is on the right and side as you're standing in front of the tractor. The 51R appears to be a perfect replacement in the 4200-4300-4400 series of tractors. It fits the compartment perfectly. Since the Optima is sealed, this should stop all of the problems of acid leakage in these tractors. The attachment is a photo of the complete installation.

Hoss

 

[CVHoss]

One difficulty is coming up with a hold-down. Most battery hold-downs are designed to go across the short part of the battery. JD's original system are a couple of small clamps at the base of the battery, but the Optima has no provision to use those. I ended up using a couple of J-hooks fed through the holes in the base plate where the original JD clamps were bolted down. I found an adjustable plastic hold-down that, at it's extreme, would just fit across the top lengthways. It was unstable when pulled this far apart, so I put some Gorilla Glue on the two pieces and then ran a small sheet metal screw in from the side. It is shown in the yellow circle in the attachment.

Hoss

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

I just replaced the battery in my 4200 with an inexpensive, generic battery that I could have bought with any of at least three different labels here. As I had no leakage problems with my OEM battery from JD I don't anticipate any with this one, either. I'll be real curious as to how my $27 (delivered to my door) battery does in comparison with your new Optima for however much more money.

One major advantage I enjoy in being able to try the cheap route is that I have a stand up, commercial battery charger at the ready in the barn with my tractor in case I need it. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[RobertN]

The Optima's in my B-in-Laws Jeep lasted 12 years. That includes extreme discharges while winching. While you can buy a number of less expensive batteries in a time frame like that, it is comforting not to have them go sour when you really need them.

 

[CVHoss]

Gary,
I'm glad you didn't have any leakage problems with your original battery. Starting the tractor was never the problem. And if it was, I have a upright charger and could get the tractor started if that were the only problem. However, since I had gone through 3 of the StrongBox batteries from Deere (don't know how much they cost, they were all replaced under warranty) and they had all leaked and corroded causing damage to the battery tray and oil lines, I wasn't content to do any more experimenting. It didn't seem prudent to risk hundreds (or more) dollars of damage to battery trays, oil lines, oil cooler, radiator, frame, etc. to save a few dollars on a battery. I know from previous off-roading experience that the Optima batteries are as tough as they advertise. I don't even know how much the battery was, in total. I know it was $95.00 + shipping. Think it ended up around $115.00. I know this battery won't spew acid and they are extremely durable in high vibration installations. It is a deep cycle battery so will stand up to long periods of non-use better than standard starting batteries and if I have to buy a new one every four years, I'll consider it very cheap insurance.

Hoss

 

[BGL990]

<font color="blue"> ... if I have to buy a new one every four years, I'll consider it very cheap insurance. </font>

Agreed!!

One of the very first things I am going to do when I get my new 990 is replace the OEM battery with an Optima. No acid spills for me!!

What I can't understand is why the manufacturers (and they all seem to have this problem) don't put better sealed batteries in their machines in the first place. Given the volume discounts they could get it HAS to be cheaper to supply decent batteries than be constantly fixing corrosion problems on warranty. Even if they increased their tractor prices by the cost of the battery, I don't think anyone would complain given the alternative choice of suffering the corrosion problem. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Oh well, I'm not letting it happen to me anyway. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Brad.

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

<font color="blue"> ""Think it ended up around $115.00...and if I have to buy a new one every four years, I'll consider it very cheap insurance. </font>

If I'd had a leakage problem I'd have considered doing what you did. I even called the local Optima dealer and they weren't all that enthused about them. With those two factors in play and my battery guy standing in front of me with this battery on his truck, I went this way.

As I look at it now, with what you paid for your Optima, I can go new every season for those same four years. Of course, you're only changing your battery once while I'm changing mine four times that way. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Like I said earlier, I'll be curious to see what kind of life each of us get out of what we did. Put me on your calendar for spring 2008 and we can compare notes then. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[Bellville]

Hoss, thanks for the post and the pictures, I have a the same problem already happening in my 790 and am looking for a permanent solution. I would rather spend $115 now and not have to bother with downtime due to repairs (even if they are warranty).

Thanks

 

[755inNY]

Gary_in_Indiana,

Keep a close eye on your battery. Results do vary and some have had no problem with a standard type battery.

But.....the first sign that your battery is leaking acid vapors get it out of there. My first battery on my 755 was fine. The second battery started "leaking" after about 3 years and I did not react quickly enough. Battery tray and exterior paint was effected.

Jeff

 

[CVHoss]

In case anyone was wondering, I ordered the 51R Optima from Remy Battery. Service was friendly, fast and efficient.

Gary,
Put me on your calendar for spring 2008 and we can compare notes then.
Are you kidding? Half the time, I can't remember why I walked into a room. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Seriously, maybe I'm reading something into your last post that isn't there, but I get the impression that since you haven't experienced the problem, you may not be fully aware of what is happening. The leakage we're experiencing isn't the result of a battery case failure. Replacing a battery once a year would not stop the problem we have. My first damage occurred within the first month of use. There was no indication of a problem until I pulled the grill to do some cleaning. Dealer replaced the battery and removed the oil cooler, flushed, treated and repainted. The problem seems to stem from the battery design itself. The StrongBox batteries (and most aftermarket starting batteries) have the standard row of fillercaps across the top. Fumes vent from these caps and if the battery is shaken substantially during use, acid can be discharged from these caps. After the three StrongBox batteries, I purchased a maintenance free starting battery from a local dealer at a cost of about $45.00. This battery had no corrosion or leakage problems, but died after about three months. It was apparently not designed internally to handle the bouncing and hammering it takes in a tractor where the only suspension is the air in the tires. That's when I decided to invest in an Optima battery. Perhaps those of us who are having the problem treat our tractors a little rougher than those who don't. Some of the pastures that I bush hog will bounce you so hard, you definitely know where your kidneys are. Trying to get some of that wet Kansas clay out of the front bucket will bounce the tractor so hard, it looks like one of those hydraulic low-rider cars. I hope your luck with your new battery is as good as your first one. But, I would suggest that you pull the grill after every use to make sure that the damage isn't starting. Battery acid can do a lot of damage in a short period of time.

Hoss

 

[rockyridgefarm]

Like any good tbn green guy, I have been watching my JD battery for spew, and had none to report. But my battery failed amd I decided to take up the warranty. When I removed it I discovered that the base under the battery had corroded. I repaired that myself, and am going the optima route. It just isn't worth it to take chances...

btw, I saw autozone carried optima, so I stooped by. They wanted $150 for the battery, with the terminals in the wrong configuration, so I'll be checking out remy....

Thanks again Hoss, I take back whatever I said ubout you folks on the wrong side of our state line!! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[rmonio]

Gary and Hoss -

My 4600 is 2 years old, but I've not had problems with the battery (acid leakage, etc.). I also have my starter nearby if necessary... my battery is the standard JD-provided unit and other than dirt that gets on it (which I've continued to wipe down), why did you replace yours so soon? Is the issue with the battery leakage only related to the 42/43/44 series units? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

-Bob

 

[rockyridgefarm]

This isn't a JD only problem. But the batteries spew acid, probably bouncing doesn't help. In my case, the effects were only seen when I removed the battery.

 

[rmonio]

I'll pop off the battery and take a look. Hopefully it isn't a problem. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

-Bob

 

[PineRidge]

Hoss I'm curious why you didn't just use the red top Optima? I would think the yellow top would work best for an electric trolling motor or similar deep discharge application.

I used a red top on my TC-40D, and no problems yet.

 

[JDgreen227]

Interesting this post would appear....I just went thru the usual 50 hour service routine on my 4210, I lift the hood, remove the side panels and grille, loosen the battery and slide it forward, then give the engine compartment a good cleaning prior to the oil and filter change.

Last time I did this was at 148 hours, there was no sign of corrosion around the battery. This time (198 hours) I found an area about two inches square on the front of the hydro system radiator...the fins were crusted with a white deposit that I carefully cleaned out with a soft bristle brush and lots of water. The crusted area could not be seen unless the battery was slid forward. Vent caps were tight and the fluid level in the battery was correct. Prior to cleaning the corroded area I took a few pictures just for the record.

I'm going to do a search of the JD forum to learn how commonplace this problem is. THANKS to all the TBN members who share their experiences, otherwise I would never know I needed to check for a corrosion problem.

/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[CVHoss]

Mike,
The yellow top is a combination starting/deep cycle battery. Since the tractor may go through long periods of non-use (especially in the winter) I felt the yellow top was the best choice. As a deep cycle battery, it is able to withstand repeated charge/discharge cycles without damage to the battery. If you use your tractor enough that the battery remains fully charged all of the time, the red top would be the best choice. But, even a red top Optima can be damaged if subjected to repeated charge/discharge cycles. Optima specifically says that using a red top in a car with high amp draw stereo equipment will void the warranty on the battery. They recommend the yellow top in this situation. For my use, the yellow top seemed right.

Hoss

 

[timb]

There's a comment on the Optima site that I haven't been able to decipher. It states

"Remember:
Dark Gray Case means Starting Technology. Light Gray Case means Deep Cycle Technology."

That makes the two choices sound mutually exclusive. If you look at the photos - all yellow tops shown appear to 'light gray' at least compared to the base of the red top batteries (that I would call black, not gray). Are there two types of yellow tops? Elsewhere on the site they seem to cite using yellow tops as starter batteries for plenty of circumstances. The only other caveat is that the yellow tops do not have quite as much CCA as the red tops. The blue tops seem to be a possible choice, but I believe they are the most expensive of the line.

I would like to proactively get an Optima for my tractor. I've been running a red top in my Jeep for years and am sold on the Optimas, just trying to figure out which is the best model for tractor use. Seems like every web search I do on 'Optima advice' yields contradicting recommendations!

 

[rockyridgefarm]

I think the best deal would be the red with a battery tender. Next would be a yellow, by itself if you can't use a tender...

 

[bigpete]

I've forgotten all of my rationale, but I ended up with the yellow top 51. I remember reading about the dark grey/light grey signifying starting/deep cycle, and I also recall reading that the yellow top was an excellent starting battery. Becasue I have had various battery problems in the past, and becuase my tractor might sit for several weeks at a time in the winter, I went for the yellow top. I wonder how long it will be before JD or Kubota offers Optimas as an option. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif