Optimum Small Shop height design?

[EddieWalker]

In all building projects, there is what we want and what works with what we have to work with. After looking at your pictures and re reading your plans a couple of times, I think your plan is very doable. Obviously you will need a lot of prep work for your foundation and new retaining wall. This is going to be a rather expensive addition.

Your question on height brings up two more questions. What will it look like when done, and how badly do you want the extra height? If you do not care about the looks too much, then 16 foot walls will allow a 15 foot door height, which will allow plenty of room for anything to get into there. With only 14 foot of width, that just doesn't leave any room to do anything once it's in there. A ten foot wide door is very tight. That's what I have now and in my next shop, I'm going for at least 12 feet wide. I don't think you can get away with a 12 foot wide door and still have any room on the sides for a shop.

How often would you bring something like an RV into there? Is this for an RV or for a work shop?

Appearance wise, you would have to switch the direction of the roof 90 degrees with the added height and while that might look OK, having the giant door and the extra height will make it look too commercial in my opinion.

For extra space too allow your wife to park in the existing garage, I would go with widening the building as it is. Extend the roof line at it's current height, add another garage door and make it as attractive as you can.

Gantry cranes are nice, but how often would you use it? I've found that after planning for one, dreaming about having one, it's something that I would rarely use and really don't need.

RV's and big equipment can be worked on outdoors. I wouldn't spend the money building to have an indoor space to work on something that rarely needs working on.

 

[dragoneggs]

Thanks for your comments Eddie. The primary purpose of the shop is a metal/wood shop. Most of my equipment is on wheels but the hope is I can firm up some locations at least for some. I don't own an RV but thought the design should accommodate, maybe if I ever had to sell the place. Gives the next owner more options. Current new door is sized at 11ft high by 10ft wide.

The gantry is probably not required. Yes, there will be the need for about a four foot foundation/bulkhead on the 'house' side. I didn't think of turning the roof pitch 90deg. I think that is a great idea as it will block less sunlight on the front of the house. I will play around with that. Here are two 3D orthographic views with doors open and closed.

 

[GLyford]

I like that more as it compliments the existing lines.

 

[boggen]

Thanks for your comments Eddie. The primary purpose of the shop is a metal/wood shop. Most of my equipment is on wheels but the hope is I can firm up some locations at least for some. I don't own an RV but thought the design should accommodate, maybe if I ever had to sell the place. Gives the next owner more options. Current new door is sized at 11ft high by 10ft wide.

The gantry is probably not required. Yes, there will be the need for about a four foot foundation/bulkhead on the 'house' side. I didn't think of turning the roof pitch 90deg. I think that is a great idea as it will block less sunlight on the front of the house. I will play around with that. Here are two 3D orthographic views with doors open and closed.
View attachment 507491 View attachment 507492

questioning the 3' wide x 6' door (standard generic door)

some things i am questioning.
1. groceries. right now standard parking is on the right hand side, and house on the left. walking 20 odd plus feet for groceries. does not sound like fun when unloading. then re parking vehicle.

2a. the standard door (3 foot by 6to 7 foot entry door into garage), and then what looks like a couple feet on each side of it.
2b. you have offset the addition. so when it is raining. there is no overhang. when you walk from normal garage past the fronts and to the home.
2c. the standard door (3 foot by 6 to 7 foot entry door into garage), is off set already and you are building to that wall.
2d. remove the small door or re-position it some place else? so if you have a garage door lift on standard smaller doors. you are not walking a maze through sheds. to get to house. but rather perhaps a walk way directly inside shed next to the doors

 

[dragoneggs]

questioning the 3' wide x 6' door (standard generic door)

some things i am questioning.
1. groceries. right now standard parking is on the right hand side, and house on the left. walking 20 odd plus feet for groceries. does not sound like fun when unloading. then re parking vehicle.

2a. the standard door (3 foot by 6to 7 foot entry door into garage), and then what looks like a couple feet on each side of it.
2b. you have offset the addition. so when it is raining. there is no overhang. when you walk from normal garage past the fronts and to the home.
2c. the standard door (3 foot by 6 to 7 foot entry door into garage), is off set already and you are building to that wall.
2d. remove the small door or re-position it some place else? so if you have a garage door lift on standard smaller doors. you are not walking a maze through sheds. to get to house. but rather perhaps a walk way directly inside shed next to the doors

Hi Ryan, thanks for your comments... appreciate them.

1. Ha ha yeah groceries... right now we park both vehicles in front of the existing garage rain or shine... it is rains more than it shines here! My shop and storage took it over. We currently need to negotiate four wood deck stairs to get down to house entry level. That probably won't change. The driveway and surrounding terrain and gardens are such that it would be very difficult to routinely navigate into and out of the main garage if I moved the shop to the existing garage side.

2a. The door on front is existing and will be closest entry to parked car driver's side in the garage. Moving door closer to house will mean you would have to pass through shop to get to car(s).

2b. The offset is to lessen the blockage of view of house and take advantage of setback allowance in rear and provide door to rear.

2d. Also looking to build a covered breezeway from house to standard door entry to have a dry path all the way from house to in the garage. Just haven't designed that yet.

 

[Big Barn]

I agree with the other guys who say not to mess up the nice setting. Convince your wife to park her car outside and have it detailed for her every couple of months.

I think you'll both be happier. JMO.

 

[dragoneggs]

I agree with the other guys who say not to mess up the nice setting. Convince your wife to park her car outside and have it detailed for her every couple of months.

I think you'll both be happier. JMO.

Jeez Terry... And just claim the whole 28 by 24 shop all for me? Will save a bunch of cash. All I would need to do is get rid of the storage of stuff that is taking up one bay and run a 100w sub panel w/ 220v. Maybe even put up a covered 2 stall carport area in front of existing? I think I still need additional floorspace though. You guys have probably just delayed the project by a year! :mur:

 

[EddieWalker]

Are you making the addition line up with the walk through door? In your picture, it looks like you have it set back to be flush with that door instead of the other, existing garage doors.

 

[bigtiller]

I agree with the other guys who say not to mess up the nice setting. Convince your wife to park her car outside and have it detailed for her every couple of months.

I think you'll both be happier. JMO.

I'd like to hear that conversation. Actually, it might be more entertaining to watch it. :laughing:

 

[ultrarunner]

A plan that blends with the existing architecture and location may cost a little bit more but it is a price paid only once.

I like high ceilings but it would have to compliment what is there.

Actually had a friend that raised his existing garage roof 18"... it was a lot of work as he used a sawzall to cut the nails and raised the roof as one platform... never would know it was done that way...

Seeing the kind of work you do I'm sure the finished product will be magnificent given the constraints.

In an ideal world every home would have an attached garage just for the two cars and nothing else... then a separate shop/basement for everything else.

The retired man that built my place 50 years ago lived like that... there was nothing in the garage but the two family cars and a bin for recycling... his wife insisted it was her space and encouraged him to build a shop around back... it was difficult in that the HOA was very involved in that it had to match in every way... he was able to get 22 x 30 and I have always thought 24 x 36 would be ideal!