Whenever I set vertical tube steel we rig it to be just bit heavy on the ground end. One person can normally one hand guide it into position.
Our barn build
- Thread starter rbstern
- Start date
- Views: 12069
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Fiber does not replace rebar. It could be considered an added bonus, but overall, it doesn't really accomplish much. Rebar holds the slab together and increases the overall strength of the slab. The bigger the slab, the more important rebar set on chairs is.
The rebar needs to be in the middle, to lower third of the slab. You have to use chairs to keep it in the air while the concrete is being spread. The biggest lie in concrete work is that they will lift it while spreading the concrete. This is done at first for pictures, and then quickly abandoned when they really start working. Then the rebar is walked on and pushed to the bottom of the concrete, where it's almost worthless.
More important then rebar is water. The bigger the pad, the more likely it is to add more water to the mix so it spreads faster and easier. Excess water is why concrete cracks in the first week. Cracks from the soil take years to happen. When the excess water evaporates, there is less volume to the concrete pad. This forces the concrete to crack. If you have enough rebar in place, this will hold the concrete together so you don't see the cracks. If you don't add extra water to the pour, the cracks will be so insignificant that you won't be able to see them.
To know if you have too much water, you can do a slump test. But for residential work, just making sure that the concrete will stand up on it's own is a good enough test. If it spreads out from it's own weight, you have too much water. When it comes out of the chute, it should just pile up on to of itself and slowly spread out.
The rebar needs to be in the middle, to lower third of the slab. You have to use chairs to keep it in the air while the concrete is being spread. The biggest lie in concrete work is that they will lift it while spreading the concrete. This is done at first for pictures, and then quickly abandoned when they really start working. Then the rebar is walked on and pushed to the bottom of the concrete, where it's almost worthless.
More important then rebar is water. The bigger the pad, the more likely it is to add more water to the mix so it spreads faster and easier. Excess water is why concrete cracks in the first week. Cracks from the soil take years to happen. When the excess water evaporates, there is less volume to the concrete pad. This forces the concrete to crack. If you have enough rebar in place, this will hold the concrete together so you don't see the cracks. If you don't add extra water to the pour, the cracks will be so insignificant that you won't be able to see them.
To know if you have too much water, you can do a slump test. But for residential work, just making sure that the concrete will stand up on it's own is a good enough test. If it spreads out from it's own weight, you have too much water. When it comes out of the chute, it should just pile up on to of itself and slowly spread out.
OP
rbstern
Platinum Member
Have two concrete quotes so far, awaiting one more.
Meantime, continuing the framing that won't obstruct a concrete truck. Beautiful weekend for hammering nails. And I wasn't alone...carpenter bees out in droves, saying thanks for the buffet.
Meantime, continuing the framing that won't obstruct a concrete truck. Beautiful weekend for hammering nails. And I wasn't alone...carpenter bees out in droves, saying thanks for the buffet.
OP
rbstern
Platinum Member
Side shed rafters done and starting on the purlins. Once the concrete gets poured and cured enough (at least a couple of weeks out), we'll start on the center loft joists, and from there, the rafters for the center aisle.
A neighbor who is building a house cleared a bunch of hardwoods from his lot, and had the contractor drop the logs off at my place. There's a lot of white oak in the stacks of logs. The wife is lobbying for white oak siding rather than pine. She can run the sawmill same as I would, so I suppose it's her call.
A neighbor who is building a house cleared a bunch of hardwoods from his lot, and had the contractor drop the logs off at my place. There's a lot of white oak in the stacks of logs. The wife is lobbying for white oak siding rather than pine. She can run the sawmill same as I would, so I suppose it's her call.
Last edited:
mike0000
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2018
- Messages
- 605
- Location
- Southern Indiana
- Tractor
- Kubota RTV 900, Kubota L3901, Kymron YH 14 mini ex
looking good, nice Score on the logs. I’m looking foreword to seeing the wood siding. There’s a barn in my area that has wood siding and red metal roof, really looks good.
Mike
Mike
OP
rbstern
Platinum Member
Had to take a few weeks off for family obligations and spring cleaning chores around the property. Just not enough hours in the day, particularly Saturday and Sunday!
Anyway, got started again, putting up the purlins for left shed roof. Going smoothly, one more 38' run and that will be done. In the meantime, I'm getting some unsolicited help from a pair of pileated woodpeckers, who are inspecting the holes made by the carpenter bees.
Argh!
Filled the holes with polyurethane adhesive. As I'm writing this, I realize I shouldn't waste the excellent, Locktite PL3X on this, and instead use the cheap Liquid Nails adhesive. Perfect for this use.
There were three or four areas like this, including one rafter right at the mating point with the support plate. Had to cut a piece of board to make a sister for it. And I found one carpenter bee hole in a piece of treated 6x6, used as a brace. You would think the bees would have better taste than that.
Anyway, project underway again.
Anyway, got started again, putting up the purlins for left shed roof. Going smoothly, one more 38' run and that will be done. In the meantime, I'm getting some unsolicited help from a pair of pileated woodpeckers, who are inspecting the holes made by the carpenter bees.
Argh!
Filled the holes with polyurethane adhesive. As I'm writing this, I realize I shouldn't waste the excellent, Locktite PL3X on this, and instead use the cheap Liquid Nails adhesive. Perfect for this use.
There were three or four areas like this, including one rafter right at the mating point with the support plate. Had to cut a piece of board to make a sister for it. And I found one carpenter bee hole in a piece of treated 6x6, used as a brace. You would think the bees would have better taste than that.
Anyway, project underway again.
Last edited:
shooterdon
Elite Member
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2012
- Messages
- 3,564
- Tractor
- 2019 LS XR4140 HST Cab; 2020 Kawasaki Mule SX; 2021 Bad Boy 54" ZT Elite
You are doing a nice job.
OP
rbstern
Platinum Member
Thank you.
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
That's a first. I never heard of a wood pecker going after framing during construction. I've had jobs where they went through the cedar siding on a house and the homeowner would cover the hole with a piece of wood, just to have it happen again. When I fix the holes, I use metal cover plates for electrical junction boxes. Then I paint it to match.
CloverKnollFarms
Elite Member
I procured a new insecticide for carpenter bees this week as they found time to bore three holes in my massive cedar pergola.
Man… that stuff kills. Anything landing on those timbers really regrets it.
Good luck with the barn. Hoping to get mine started soon.
Man… that stuff kills. Anything landing on those timbers really regrets it.
Good luck with the barn. Hoping to get mine started soon.