outboard vs i/o sterndrive??

[WiJC]

does anybody have any experience on these? i have only had outboards in the past. somewhere along the way i heard that horsepower to horsepower...that outboards are much stronger (faster out of the hole etc).

is this true?

i am looking into a boat for skiing etc and see some cheaper used ones with i/o's on them.

anyone?

thanks
John

 

[Cliff_Johns]

IOs have a few advantages. The weight distribution is better, you can get a larger engine because it's held in the hull, you can turn a larger screw and push a larger boat. The engine weight is lower so the boat ballance is better. They can be fresh water cooled even if you're using them in salt water.

They have some disadvantages too. It's a bit harder to pop the engine out and take it to the shop and the engine takes up hull space.

That's all I can think of off hand. BTW they've been around for a very long time.

Cliff

 

[thcri]

I have had both and will tell you the outboard will pop ski-ers out much better horsepower to horsepower.(2 cycle versus 4 cycle) However, I hate outboards because of the noise and the smell as most are 2 cycle engines. The I/O is nice because it is quieter. As far as working on them I/O it is not bad. After my last two boats being I/O's you could not get me back into a outboard.

murph

 

[fishman]

If you are looking at "cheaper" used boats, then IMHO an outboard will likely be nothing but trouble and expense. I've never had an i/o, but it seems to me that they would have the advantage in longevity, being 4-stroke and basically a car engine. Two stroke outboard engines don't have anywhere near the life expectancy of a car engine, no matter how well you take care of them.

If you buy new, there are a bunch of 4-stroke outboards that start to blur the line a little. They are much quieter, more fuel efficient, and probably longer-lived than carburated 2-stroke outboards of the past. They are big $ though.
As I said, I've never had an i/o but if I were looking for a used ski-boat, say 10 years old, I'd have to vote against the outboard, leaving but one choice, the i/o.

As with anything, the way in which it was taken care of is important. With boat engines, it is paramount. Regardless of which engine type you are looking at, I'd talk to the seller and ask them:

How often they changed the water impeller (every 3 years, minimum, or the motor may run hot, reducing it's life)

How often they changed the lower unit oil (every year, also need to check it for water intrusion, forming a milky color)

Whether they run a water-seperating filter on the fuel line (not an absolute must, but great peace of mind that the motor hasn't had water in it).

Does the power trim and tilt work (if so equipped, and I wouldn't have one without it).

Is there fresh grease at all pivot points and on the zerks (or at least wiped off after lubing).

If they look at you blankly when you ask these questions, run away unless they have maintanence records from an outboard shop.

And don't forget to look the boat over too. There's a lot of things that can be wrong with a 10 year old boat, not the least of which might be a cracked transom or a patched hole in the bottom of the boat.

 

[bcarter]

In my experience comparing the same H.P., the output will give you better "hole shot" given its higher power-to-weight ratio and lighter weight. I've also seen higher "top end" with an outboard (mine have been set-up with a jack plate that allows the operator to raise the motor so that less of it sticks into the water). I've also found that outboards are easier to work on (since everything is easily accessed) and you don't need to worry about getting the engine block drained (or winterized) in colder climates. This is a huge benefit if you use the boat at the "extremes" of the season (early season fishing or late season duck huntung where there is still the risk of a hard freeze).

As has been mentioned already, I/Os will likely give you longer service due to their design and shear mass. They also do allow you to use a closed cooling system which is a huge benefit if you operate in an ocean environment.

However, if you are looking for a serious ski boat look at one with an inboard. For quality of tow, there is no comparison... The pull is straighter, the hole shot is quick, and the wake is usually much flatter. With a center mounted pylon to attach the tow rope to, the center of balance and control of the boat is better too. I've used all three (maintained, driven, and skiied behind) and I'd pick an inboard with out hesitation.

My $0.02.

 

[TresCrows]

Just came back from New Orleans. While there me and my brother went "Bass" fishing in the "family" boat (some guy tried to buy my fishing rod for 400 dollars at the ramp!). It has been handed down several times. The engine, a 135 horse Johnson was purchased in 1972. It has resided on the stern of three different boats. Before that there was a Johnson 75, it too ran forever. It has been used in salt and fresh, fishing and originally powering a Hydrodyne ski-boat. It has in the neighborhood of 8,000 hours TT. It has been rebuilt twice--last time by me. It has run reliably for years and been relatively maintence free even run wide open every day it was ever used. We lived on a lake when I was a kid and skied nearly 6mos out of each year. No I/O I have ever seen can be run that hard that long unless it has high performace goodies. The best skiboats now, always were inboard, for fishing and smaller boats outboards are hard to beat but stern drives are always an attractive alternative for family play boats. It really depends what you want it for.
OK, Johnson/Evinrude are no longer produced by OMC, the were sold to Bombardier. Almost all big outboards and some middle sized ones are avaialbe in 4-stroke versions. My bet is that these will run the the gizzards out of a similar powered stern drive and--outboards are designed to live in marine and freshwater but you do have to flush them. We went out also near Grande Isle on a Boston Whaler with Suzuki 4 stroke OB, 225 horses. It was quiet, smooth, POWERFUL, nuff said.
Did you know that B&S make a small 4-stroke outboard? Kinda cute looking.
All of the engines these days--all types are really good--the boats though are really easy to get ripped on. There is some really junky stuff out there.
I just bought a new boat--yep---powered by a paddle---a kayak SOT. Cheap, good gas mileage, seaworthy, intend to use it for fishing and scuba diving /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif.
When I retire---such as that might be--I am outa here---I am tired of tractors, tired of mowing, tired of acres of weeds, yep--some cheap hurricane property in Porta whatever Florida sounds nice--especially come this winter.
Y'all be good.

J

 

[mainiak1]

I've owned both outboard and IO. I prefer the IO better gas mileage and last longer. The negatives are they take up room in the boat and are more work to winterize. I also do alot of slolam waterskiiing. If you are planning to pull up slolam skiers from a deep water start, save yourself alot of frustration and buy at least the 4.3 liter V6. Ive owned the four cylinder even though the motor is rated 140HP the prop HP is 115. With the extra weight of the motor it struggles for a hundred yards before you get on top of the water. One time I skied behind Stingray 140 hp He had to leave the steering wheel to get in front of the boat to get me up. I weigh 155lbs and ski with Obrien Vengence ski double high wrap boots. I now own a 4.3 Four barrel carb with a 17' boat this pulls me up fine about 20yds I'm on top of the water. The wake is the biggest problem with these versus the true waterski boats. I wish I could afford a true waterki boat. If I can answer any specific question let me know.

 

[TresCrows]

Sounds like you need more power or a boat with a quicker planning hull.
A good ski boat for someone wanting to ski serious needs to be able to run 45ish MPH. Slalom boat speeds for competitive slalom is 36(max) so you need a strong running boat. Of course, the skier may reach speeds close to 60 MPH behind a ski boat at 36 while working the bouys on a shortline rope. For barefooting you really need to scoot. The 135 Johnson on the Hydrodyne could easily run the course at a steady 36 and topped in the mid 40s. It would pop me up with my rear leg seated easily, not dragging a foot as many do. It would also pull me up barefoot, starting laying down in the water, wrap my legs over the rope, plane off on my rear and then when hit about 32ish--when it felt right--put my heels down and come up on my footsies and then accelerate on up to about 40. At the time I weighed about 175 lbs. Big guys with a "double boot" slalom like I think you said you have need lots of power, you might try a Connely ski, I always like them better than O'briens but I have not been keeping up with all that. My old ski iks a Connely Shortline. I also got a old Jobee. I ran a 67 inch ski, perhaps your ski is to small for you. Also, when both feet are seated for a deepwater start bending the front knee and crouching down with the arms almost straight makes it much easier, if you are stiff legging and pulling back with your arms almost straight you will make the boat work awfull hard. Seeya. J

 

[PineRidge]

<font color="blue"> However, if you are looking for a serious ski boat look at one with an inboard. For quality of tow, there is no comparison... The pull is straighter, the hole shot is quick, and the wake is usually much flatter. With a center mounted pylon to attach the tow rope to, the center of balance and control of the boat is better too. I've used all three (maintained, driven, and skiied behind) and I'd pick an inboard with out hesitation.
</font>

Bill I used to ski a bit when I was younger and am familiar with both outboards and I/Os having owned both. I have never owned an inboard but I always stayed away from them because of complaints that I had heard from owners who said they weren't worth beans when trying to back away from a dock. They mentioned something about having poor control because of the way the prop-wash moved away from the rudder in reverse. Is there any truth to this myth?

 

[fivestring]

For skiing, I/O will work fine for you.

Outboards have an advantage with holeshot.... the farther back and higher you can mount the motor, the better holeshot.
You also don't need a blower in the bilge to rid the boat of fumes prior to re-fueling and starting the motor.
You have more useable space IN the boat with an outboard.
Complete engine service is easier... you can get to all the parts without being a contortionist.
The new 4 cycle outboards are as quiet as I/O's.

 

[ronjhall]

<font color="blue"> Is there any truth to this myth? </font>

Mike

Single engine I/O, Outboards, and Inboards all have problems docking. The I/O and outboard will try to walk to the right when going into a dock. An inboard will try to walk also. The inboard will not steer very well unless the prop is pushing water over the rudder. In reverse water is not being pushed over the rudder. I/O and outboard will only steer if the prop is turning. In reverse the exhaust washes over the prop which gives less control and requires more rpm's.
I have owned all three. Including twin engines. Twin engines inboards are the best of the 3 for maneuvering around the docks. My 32' boat that is 37' overall will turn within it's own length. An I/O or Outboard will need more room or some fancy forward and reverse and steering wheel movement to turn 360 degrees.
An Inboard will have less maintance than an I/O or Outboard. The Inboard will not run as fast and will use more gas. It's one of those pay me now or pay me later things.

It is not a myth.

 

[8NTX]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Single engine I/O, Outboards, and Inboards all have problems docking. The I/O and outboard will try to walk to the right when going into a dock. )</font>

This is especially true when you have a breeze and a decent current blowing into your cove. I have found out in the last few months that bringing my 19' boat with I/O into the slip is much more difficult than driving onto the trailer.

And two weeks ago, I lost power to the prop while doing about 45 mph across the lake. And no, it wasn't the hub. Won't go into gear. Uh-oh. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[gws]

I have found on "modern" outboards its cheaper to work on. People dont have to hand upside down to work on an engine they can work faster. Outboards for smaller boats seem to be more popular in saltwater areas. The big problem with outboards is when you get an old one. Air cooled around are area are VERY hard to get fixed, no one wants to work on them. Also when towing an outboard puts much of the weight at the end of the trailer., I/O moves it in a and lower.

if it gets you to the fishing hole and back, its the right engine.

 

[WiJC]

a 17 or so foot glass boat with the 3 liter 135hp will have problems pulling slalom skiers out of the water?? that seems like quite a bit of hp for that size boat. (although my experience with boats has always been with outboards)

i have been skiing for about 25 years..but am not a die-hard. this boat will be for my family to play around with up at the cabin. (skiing, tubing etc)

anyone with experience with skiing off a similar setup?

thanks again for the responses...

 

[hazmat]

I ski off our 17' boston whaler with 90HP (V4). It will pull my 220# out of the water OK on 1 ski. Just not if there are 6 people in the boat. Plenty of HP for tubing, knee boarding etc.

You should do fine with 135HP as long as the boat isn't a real tank (Heavy).

before the 17' we had 13' with 40HP. When I was a sophmore in high school (160#?) it would no longer pull me up on 1 ski. 2 skis was OK. Always hated looking for the ski after I had dropped it.

 

[fivestring]

A 135 is more than enough for a 17 ft. boat.
I had a 115 and pulled two skiers with a 17 ft. boat.
You should be able to pull 2 skiers with ease.

 

[hazmat]

I have no sympathy for powerboats and docking.
/forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
Lets see - 1,500# whaler, 90HP to move it.

16,000# sailboat - 27HP to move it?

Which is going to manuver better? /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Seriously though - docking can be tough. There is a good little book out there called "dockmanship" that has some nice diagrams etc.

I've found that getting a spring line on the dock gives you a pivot point to manuver against to bring the bow or stern in as required. In tough conditions (high winds / current) think out your plan before you get to the dock.

 

[WiJC]

i know a 135hp is more than enough..being an outboard. (i have quite a bit of experience with outboards)

is it enough being an i/o??

when i was about 12 (long time ago) i got up on 2 skis behind an 18 horse evinrude /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[hazmat]

How much does the boat weigh? I'd say probably enough. You should be able to take the boat for a test ride before you buy. Bring your skis.

 

[WiJC]

the boat is about 1900 lbs.

also, an earlier poster stated his preference of skis...i too like connely skis better than obrien. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif