Backhoe Outside Storage

   / Outside Storage #21  
The shipping containers are 8 ft wide outside dimension, so a little better than 7'6" inside, You can get a standard or high-cube and those are 8 ft or 9 ft tall, exterior dimension. I'm planning on getting a Kioit CK3510 or something of that ilk. If I were to build a shed, I'd make it deep enough to pull in with grapple or bucket and rotary cutter all connected. For my set up, I would build it 24 ft deep if not doing the shipping container. 4 ft and 8 ft lengths reduce material waste in building.
 
   / Outside Storage #22  
If I ever got another shipping container, it would be an insulated reefer style. A friend cut a 40 in half and insulated it. Put a man door in the end and the whole end opens hinged at the top, hydraulically! Pretty slick, He said the insulating was a GIANT PITA as nothing worked with standard building material.
 
   / Outside Storage #24  
That would be good to know. Having said that, this is Canada, where anything out of the pedestrian thing, is expensive, hard to get and sometimes just not worth it in the end. I'm guessing, that an insulated container, here already would be the better buy. Plus, I can buy it with "increasingly worthless" canadian currency.
 
   / Outside Storage #25  
When I built my pole barn, I made it whatever size I needed to fit the used trusses I found on craigslist. 24x16 building cost less than $2500 (not including dirt).
 
   / Outside Storage #26  
Ah! Here you probably couldn't use them without the engineering drawings.
 
   / Outside Storage #27  
They tried to give me that crap, but around here anything goes for ag buildings.
 
   / Outside Storage #28  
Nor can you drag some cedar out of the swamp without being stamped.

MAYBE they have a point. In the 80s a pole barn was built on the neighbors place.

Now my friend and neighbor wants to have a poured floor and realizes many of the posts have rotted off. What an expensive sheit show it's turning into!
 
   / Outside Storage #29  
If I ever got another shipping container, it would be an insulated reefer style. A friend cut a 40 in half and insulated it. Put a man door in the end and the whole end opens hinged at the top, hydraulically! Pretty slick, He said the insulating was a GIANT PITA as nothing worked with standard building material.

A vertical clam shell door? I must have read that wrong! Hydraulic as in with a pump? Can you visit your friend and snap a couple of shots? Please. You can crop out any valuable or embarrassing stuff. I thought about cutting two 40 HC @ 30 ft and using the pieces for other storage.

My idea is to space two 40 ft HC thirty ft apart and put a roof over and between them. To insulate, I plan on attaching some PT 2 X 4 for furring for siding of some sort. I want to foam on the exterior and protect it from sunlight.

The interior will get a version of French cleat with flat bar welded horizontally. Even 1/8 x 1" would be incredibly strong spanning just 8".
 
   / Outside Storage #30  
If you're going to start attaching a bunch of crap to the container, you might as well build in traditional fashion. It is easier and cheaper than modifying containers. The only reason I am using a container for my cabin is because it is a little more secure. But I ordered a container that allows me to build a wall behind the doors so I will not be fabricating holes into the box either. See pic. 1.jpg
 
   / Outside Storage #31  
I store mine inside for these two reasons:

I use it all winter for plowing and like to keep it somewhat protected from the cold and snow free.

I hate spiders and snakes in the summer and keeping it ouside would mean a nice home for them. :laughing:

At some point I'll build lean to's off my barn and will possibly keep it there then.
 
   / Outside Storage #32  
My friend is always building fancy/schansy stuff.

It's like a hatchback with the two gas filled cylinders, only double acting hydraulic ones with a 110v power pack in the inside. Maybe the man door was an after thought but he had fittings on the outside in case of emergency or failure to get the door opened.

I just encountered a problem, will need a hydraulic hose and that is where he makes them. So , yes with permission, I will take a picture or two.
 
   / Outside Storage #33  
If you're going to start attaching a bunch of crap to the container, you might as well build in traditional fashion. It is easier and cheaper than modifying containers. The only reason I am using a container for my cabin is because it is a little more secure. But I ordered a container that allows me to build a wall behind the doors so I will not be fabricating holes into the box either. See pic.View attachment 564985

Wow. What did a side opening with end door 20 ft one tripper cost? I bet I can buy six HC 40 ft delivered for what two of those cost.

Welding "H" brackets from strap steel or 1/4 HR slick rod to hold PT wood to a WWT HC 40 footer is the poster child for inexpensive, attractive storage. I think a single lift of 1.5" closed cell would be adequate. The darn things are almost tornado proof from debris. Tough to break into. Strong enough to support a light weight bridge crane.

You should be feeling some love.
 
   / Outside Storage #34  
Hey, Some people would rather build with wood and have the thing slowly rot into the ground it came from. Shipping containers are AMAZING, and UGLY! I painted mine green and put it amongst trees.
 
   / Outside Storage #35  
Wow. What did a side opening with end door 20 ft one tripper cost? I bet I can buy six HC 40 ft delivered for what two of those cost.

It was $5900 delivered. So, you can buy about 1.3 40 foot HCs rather than 6 for that price. Prices vary on geography and will likely go up with the new tariff wars... I don't know how to weld nor own welding equipment. It was about $1500 more than a standard single tripper and I am not interested in buying one that needs repaired. For me it is worth spending $1500 vs cutting holes in a standard container, buying welding equipment, learning how to weld, getting good at welding, then fabricating the container, doing a bunch of janky adaptations, etc. etc. etc. Or pay someone else more money to do it (probably wrong).

Nonetheless, even if I did own welding equipment and knew how to use it; it would still be more expensive and/or time consuming to correctly modify a shipping container than to do traditional construction. Built properly, wood construction won't rot. Standard metal buildings do not rot.

There is also more to cost than the material. I work a full time job and my property is 1.5 hours from where I live. A big benefit of the shipping container for me is that it is a place to store my tools while I am building it out rather than load and unload my tools and haul them back and forth. It's an instant shell. So for me, it is a time and security consideration. I does not pan out cheaper in raw dollars compared to traditional construction no matter how you toss it and dice it. You're basically paying for very expensive siding that needs most all of the other stuff that a traditional built structure needs, plus some other things that you don't normally need for the A-typical adaptations.

But I digress - this thread is about storing implements outside. I know plenty about construction methods and techniques, being an engineer in the industry. I don't know diddly squat about tractors as I am still shopping.
 
   / Outside Storage #36  
Sorry, I struck a nerve there. 40 ft HC are $2900 give or take $200 . That's 1200 sq ft covered and 600 sq ft that's nearly tornado proof. Gravel floor. Material costs for what I don't own total about $8000. That's about as inexpensive a space as possible in my case. Costs hit about $20000 if I add a bridge crane. (New steel prices!)

Implements wouldn't be inside but under cover. It is better than completely out in the weather. BTW, welding is about filling holes not making them. It is a useful skill. It is even pleasant for 2 or 3 months out of the year.
 
   / Outside Storage #37  
No nerve hit. I would love to know how to weld and have considered it several times. It just never ends up at the top of the priority list of things to do in limited free time. Maybe someday!
 
   / Outside Storage #38  
I have taught countless lawyers, bored housewives, and retirees to run a mig, oxyfuel, and plasma in well under an hour. I start with the torch, move to plasma, and end with mig. They often bought one of the three on the spot.

In short, it is dead simple easy. I have talked people through it over the phone. (Not my favorite, but I have.) Stick with quality equipment, make one small change at a time, and listen. Easy.
 
   / Outside Storage
  • Thread Starter
#39  
Use fluid film....... Fluid Film is the next best thing to rubbing it down with sheep wool.

You seem to be quite a fan. Do you like the spray or liquid? Does it make the metal slippery - can I coat walking surfaces?
 
   / Outside Storage #40  
its amazing how big machinery sits outside all year and it doesnt really effect them. damaged cylinders, road salt, etc will effect how well things weather the outside. ive hauled many 40-50yr old machines that have never spend a day inside and function just fine. even 50yr old farm tractors are just fine spending every day outside.
 
 

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