Overloaded, need insite on tractor purchase

[Olympus]

Almost forgot, get bigger than what you think you'll need. It's better to have room to grow into of you can afford it.

 

[2458n]

All good info. I have small Kubota 245DT Front loader and backhoe and just about everything else I have gathered over 32 years of owning it. I bought this used at a auction along with all the implements over the years. For the farm I have a 2-60 White field boss with a front end loader and a Arps 730 3pt backhoe. IT is set up for cat1 or 2 hitch. 10 foot Bush hog. Tillers for each tractor. I do not have 20 thousand in all my toys so it can be done by going used. Post hole diggers ,plows ,booms and box blades are always available. You just need to get what you need now and the rest is just something that comes along. Plow your own drive it provides a good deal of satisfaction. You probably do not need the backhoe as they can be pretty pricey even used.

 

[Weedy Fields]

Thanks for all words of wisdom. My wife is concerned with the driveway length and slope. I think if I use the I can plow it myself angle I'll be able to spend more and have less days in dog house.
Reasoning for flail mower was I'll need to mow about 5-6" above ground so as to cut only annual weeds not developing grasses/forbs. Also I'm under the impression that a flail mower is relatively safer, less rocks/debris flying about.
Concern with tiller is rocks in ground. wouldn't cultivator be easier to go thru, do a rock hunt and removal run then disc.
As far as a 1 year period to work land to deplete weed bank and break down unwanted herbicides. This comes from seed suppliers. Atrazine and other chemicals are meant to prevent growth of what I'm looking to plant. I understand some of these chemicals take awhile to break down.
I'm thinking that the back hoe is one of those implements that once you get one you'll wonder what you did with out one. But tough to justify 8K in the beginning with all the other stuff I'll need.

So about 40hp min, 4wd,

I actually enjoy manual trans, like shifting, using gears, My JD riding tractor is hydro and I have a 70's vintage Wheelhorse that is manual shift, I use it with a trailer for hauling rocks, manure, dirt and wood. Does alot more "work" than the JD. I put chains on the back it goes anywhere I want right now. I start out if load is heavy in low range. Also if it the wheels spin on slippery surfaces I can jump out and push it while its spinning to get it going. Can't do that on the hydrostatic. What is the advantage to hydrostatic? Any extra cost on hydrostatic?

Cultivator and disc or rototiller?,

Front end loader for plowing snow? or Plow on front or blade on back?

Flail mower

Am I missing anything?

I'm going to have to start visiting dealers to see whats out there new and "lightly" used in tractors.
I assume that all of these will be cat I hitch so if I find any implements that fit that then I'm good to go?


Thanks again for all the incite from all of your collected years of wisdom.

 

[oosik]

I think you are heading in the correct direction except for one item. The backhoe implement. I've got 80 acres, mile long gravel driveway and absolutely no need for the backhoe. Its a very expensive attachment and I do believe after a year or so it will just sit - collecting rust. I would go without the backhoe attachment for the first year and then evaluate that need again. You will be able to find so many other uses for that much money.

 

[arnoldziffel]

Taking your time and being open to a used machine I think you can hit the very high end of your budget. (If you eliminate the back hoe).

Earlier this year I was tempted by a Kioti DK40 machine. About 25 hours on the clock and only $17,000. This was at a dealer that resells almost new bank repos.

Scan the market carefully and patiently and the right tractor will present itself.

 

[jeff9366]

1) Reasoning for flail mower was I'll need to mow about 5-6" above ground so as to cut only annual weeds not developing grasses/forbs. Also I'm under the impression that a flail mower is relatively safer, less rocks/debris flying about.

2) Concern with tiller is rocks in ground. wouldn't cultivator be easier to go thru, do a rock hunt and removal run then disc.

3) I'm thinking that the back hoe is one of those implements that once you get one you'll wonder what you did with out one. But tough to justify 8K in the beginning with all the other stuff I'll need.

4) So about 40hp min, 4wd, I assume that these will be cat I hitch so if I find any implements that fit that then I'm good to go?

5) I actually enjoy manual trans, like shifting, using gears. What is the advantage to hydrostatic? Any extra cost on hydrostatic?

6) Front end loader for plowing snow? or Plow on front or blade on back?

7) Am I missing anything?

8) I'm going to have to start visiting dealers to see whats out there new and "lightly" used in tractors.

1) Rotary Cutters are adjustable to 12" mowing height. Probably outsell Flail Mowers for farm use 300 to 1. New Rotary Cutters have shielded debris exhausts. Easier/cheaper to replace two steel blades than 400 carbide cutters.

Flail mowers are mostly sold for government use along busy highways, school grounds and parks.

2) Define what a 'cultivator' is to you. To me, cultivators are row crop implements.

The discs on a Disc Harrow are also called pans and wheels. They rotate on axles. To a certain extent discs/pans/wheels roll over rocks.

Tillers mix soil. A Disc Harrow is one form of tiller, designed for tilling in long rows. Along with plows, one of the implements tractors were designed to pull. Today, in the age of no-till agriculture, using Roundup and GMO seed, not many plows are sold. But market for Disc Harrows remains strong. In the north (Wisconsin) I understand from reading here, plowing is still somewhat practiced.

A second kind of tiller is PTO powered Roto-tiller. Forward rotating Roto-tillers are preferred for rocky soil.

I hate making greasy, awkward PTO shaft connection to tractor PTO splines. All PTO implements, not just Roto-tillers.

Inure yourself to forever picking rocks larger than 4". Bucket attachment called a Ratchet Rake is good at leveraging out semi-buried rocks.

3) Key part of a tractor is the Three Point Hitch. When Backhoe is on tractor Three Point Hitch is unavailable. With a Bucket Spade attached to bucket, Three Point Hitch is available-----most often I have my Box Blade on 3-Pt, paired with the Bucket Spade. When the Backhoe is off, you must store it in the garage, not outside. (My tractor lives in humidity controlled garage. Cars live in the driveway.)

Tractor 'newBs' often have, to me, irrational penchants for Backhoes, for loading tires and for buying tractors and ground contact implements too light.

4) Think tractor WEIGHT as much as horsepower. Forty horsepower minimum. 4-WD + FEL for sure. Category 1 Three Point Hitch comes on tractors 20-45 horsepower. Category 2 overlaps, 40-100 horsepower. Implements come in Cat 1, Cat 1/2 and Cat 2. 'Up' adaptors readily available for 3 X $2.

5.) Most relatively new forty horsepower tractors will have HST. Begining at fifty horsepower, some have gears. I would argue HST requires repair less frequently than clutch. On hills, HST is the only safe choice.

LINK T0 18,400 "HST Vs Gear" threads:
https://www.google.com/search?q=HST...X&ei=3wygVLGvA4azggSb2oHICQ&ved=0CCsQrQIoBDAA

6) Snow is a four letter word in Florida.

7) No mention of a moldboard plow, so I assume you are committed to no-till? Heavy Disc Harrows are used for soil prep in no-till. Site vegetable garden at higher elevation than corn.

Like cars, new tractors evolve, becoming easier and safer to operate every succeeding year.

8) Try to attend an AG EXPO in your area where all tractor brands and almost all implement brands will be displayed and explained by factory reps.

EXPO LINK: https://www.google.com/search?clien...isconsin+ag+show&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&gws_rd=ssl


Here are more implements to consider:

http://www.lsuagcenter.com/NR/rdonl...45263BDD8/11557/pub2917tractorimplements1.pdf


Learn to search T-B-N's 4,000,000 thread archive using Google.

 

[nybirdman]

Another must have item for your tractor;extendable end links for the three point or some type of quick change(Pat's is one).These are invaluable when changing implements.
Depending on your snow fall average,you may get by with a rear blade and FEL,down the road you can always add a front blade.Less than 100in./year this is a good combo,more than that you may be looking at a snow blower.
Rear mounted brush-hogs can be set higher if needed;I do this on my clover and switchgrass plots.

 

[Threepoint]

[snip]

Here are other implements to consider:

http://www.lsuagcenter.com/NR/rdonl...45263BDD8/11557/pub2917tractorimplements1.pdf

Well done publication from LSU. :thumbsup:

 

[dieselcrawler]

You arnt stuck with local tractors... window shop on tractorhouse.com, finding a good deal on the other side of the country can yeild a lower hour or higher horsepower mechine for less money even when you factor in shipping. My boss has done this, his L4310 came from upstate NY and the F250 pick up from Georiga, both shipped to northern WV for about $500 each.

Tractordata.com is also a good place to check stats of a certin model if you are compairing HP and such.

My recommendations are Kubota M5700 or even a JD 2355 (one on tractorhouse right now, $16500, showing 1500 hrs, 67hp, loader, 4x4). You might do well with something as small as the L4310 we have at work. Visit dealers to check out ones you like, but having one shipped in may be worth doing.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

You arnt stuck with local tractors... window shop on tractorhouse.com, finding a good deal on the other side of the country can yeild a lower hour or higher horsepower mechine for less money even when you factor in shipping. My boss has done this, his L4310 came from upstate NY and the F250 pick up from Georiga, both shipped to northern WV for about $500.

Tractordata.com is also a good place to check stats of a certin model if you are compairing HP and such.

My recommendations are Kubota M5700 or even a JD 2355 (one one tractorhouse right now, $16500, 1500 hrs, 67hp, loader, 4x4). You might do well with something as small as the L4310 we have at work. Visit dealers to check out ones you like, but having one shipped in may be worth doing.

While this is true, a lot if not most people are not comfortable purchasing a used machine that they have not seen in person. I have done this myself, even had my brother there looking at the machine and made the purchase. That was a mistake is all I can say about that transaction.