Overloaded, need insite on tractor purchase

[MtnViewRanch]

Ouch. Guess I'm just not seeing the advantage in doing it that way.

What about implement costs? Hopefully he does not use the same implements on larger tractors. I would agree that only taking a $3000 hit after 3 years is pretty good, about as good as it gets I would imagine. Each to their own, part of what makes the world go around.

 

[xrsrfn]

Ouch. Guess I'm just not seeing the advantage in doing it that way.

I did not start out to trade tractors every three years I just got lucky with a great dealer giving top trade-in dollars and a great price on a new tractor. I know some would say $15 an hour for a tractor is extremely high, but the amount of work the tractor did for me was amazing in the fact I cleared entire areas overgrown for 10 years and have reclaimed a goodly portion of my property.
I could have hired out the clearing but I have the scars and back pain to prove I cleared it so it was my "health club dues" as well for the tractor payment. Depreciation also helps with the pain so that $15 hr doesn't include the value of tax depreciation in the cost of operation. There are other factors that make it a good way of ownership depending on how you want to look at your purchase. I may start another thread about it I do not want to ruin this one being of subject. Just understand I know it was a good deal for me both in equipment usage as well as financial cost.

 

[Gator6x4]

With a budget of $20,000 you are just about forced into he used market if you pay cash. Look around in your area at what the dealers have on their lots and read the classifieds. If you finance most Major Tractor dealers are offering 0 down and 0 percent financing. That might also be an option to explore. Hold the bulk of the twenty thousand in reserve and go for one of the 0 percent financing deals.

The drive way is a major concern. 2200 feet is a long driveway. Make sure the contractor installs side ditches for drainage on both sides of the driveway. If you have a low spot make sure you have him provide a outlet for the water, via drainage ditch or tile. Also do not let him put a flat finish on the driveway, driveways need a crown in the center with sloping to each side to insure water drains off instead of standing. Your gravel cost will be lower each year with a properly crowned, sloped driveway with drainage ditches on each side.

 

[tractchores]

The man has 35 acres of corn.

I believe he mentions he's letting a farmer lease the bigger fields and assume that farmer will work them with his own equipment.... Though I'd love to see someone tend 35 acres with a CUT, that's some SERIOUS seat time!

One thought is that if you do arrange a lease with an area farmer maybe you could arrange something with the equipment or hire the farmer at a discount to do some of the bigger one-time work if he has the right implements. Given the budget I think its going to be tough to "go big", get something decent and still be able to afford the implements. I think you're better off going smaller, outsourcing/avoiding or doing the big jobs slowly and getting a good machine with the proper implements for the repetitive work (i.e. snow, grading, mowing)

 

[Weedy Fields]

I guess I didn't make my self clear. The land has 35 acres that are currently in Corn. I DO NOT PLAN on continuing that. I will be returning land to a wild state over time. 1st land around house then 20 acre field in maybe 2 years. The land is to be tilled for a season several times a year to destroy annual weeds and clear up the seed bank to some degree. The following year it will be planted in seed by hand. Then depending upon how things go it may need mowing only for the first year, two at the most to allow the plantings to get established. It takes 3 years for them to get going. Once they are up and going then I don't need to do any thing other than maybe hand eradication of invasive plants. Possibly prescribed burns.

To be honest in a couple of years time I should be done with the tilling/cultivating equipment. I'll only use the tractor to get firewood, possible plow driveway and maintain driveway.

 

[MikePA]

While this is true, a lot if not most people are not comfortable purchasing a used machine that they have not seen in person. I have done this myself, even had my brother there looking at the machine and made the purchase. That was a mistake is all I can say about that transaction.

A friend of mine bought a 3ph sprayer for the hundred acres of hay he farms. Looked great online, talked to the guy, got additional pictures sent and all his questions answered. Put a deposit down and drove 3 states away to get it. He didn't think the guy was being deceptive but the sprayer was not quite what he thought it'd be upon seeing it in person. However, there he was, with his truck and trailer and 3 states away. He could have gotten his deposit back and driven home empty handed. He didn't.

When the seller sees you pull up with a trailer, he is almost 100% certain of a sale.

Even seeing it in person has its pitfalls.

 

[MAN IN BLACK]

Even if you don't plan to work the land, I would not go under the 40-50 PTO HP.
This way you have weight, and weight = better traction.
You will need that traction for maintaining your driveway and be thankful to have it working in the woods.
For your driveway, I would definitively do it myself and with 3pt snowblower rather than a blade or plow

 

[jeff9366]

The land has 35 acres that are currently in Corn. I DO NOT PLAN on continuing that. I will be returning land to a wild state over time. 1st land around house then 20 acre field in maybe 2 years. The land is to be tilled for a season several times a year to destroy annual weeds and clear up the seed bank to some degree.

Yes, this is a different forecast from what most of us were working on.

A Disc Harrow, with a Chain Harrow attached to the back, so you pull them both together some of the time, is likely to be your two key tillage tools. I plant Spring/Summer and Fall/Winter food plots, so I Disc Harrow twice per year, then roll in seed with a Cultpacker. Discing twice per year you will not need a moldboard plow.

If you find a smoothing Disc Harrow you may decide to skip the Chain Harrow and use a Cultipacker instead, if you have light soil.

SELECTING A DISC HARROW: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/308251-disc-harrow-selection-18-45-a.html?highlight=

You will need a Disc Harrow with 20" or 22" pans, with 7" spacing between pans, slightly wider than tractor's outside tire width.

CULTIPACKERS: Search Results - TractorByNet.com

Even if you don't plan to work the land, I would not go under the 40-50 PTO HP.
This way you have weight, and weight = better traction.
You will need that traction for maintaining your driveway and be thankful to have it working in the woods.
For your driveway, I would definitively do it myself and with 3pt snowblower rather than a blade or plow

I agree.

How about responding daily? A lot of effort spent responding was wasted. It is up to the OP to keep the thread focused on OP's situation and goals.