PA-300, my opinion.

[Arc weld]

Some transformers have had arc force control. Miller Goldstar SS is an example. Might have something to do with open circuit volts like on an SA200 or with an even wider OCV range like on the SAE machines? Maybe the frequency adjusts on an inverter since generally they have lower open circuit volts than a transformer machine?

 

[Shield Arc]

Played around with the new machine this morning. Trying to learn where I like to run it.
Did an open root pipe. I forgot to turn the arc force all the way to 10. I left it at 5.
30-degree bevel.
7/64-inch gap.
No land, knife edge.
1/8-inch 6010.
50-amps.
5-arc force.

Fill pass.
5/32-inch 6010.
120-amps.
1-arc force.

1/8-inch 7018 flat.
130-amps.
1-arc force.

1/8-inch 7018 vertical up
125-amps.
1-arc force.

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

Looks good except just to the right of "12" there is a closed up gap. Was that too low of arc force or too low of amps? Was it that the gap closed up or something else like the arc went out???

 

[Underdog57]

Looks nice! Thanks for posting your settings, that will help me a lot! :thumbsup:

 

[Shield Arc]

Looks good except just to the right of "12" there is a closed up gap. Was that too low of arc force or too low of amps? Was it that the gap closed up or something else like the arc went out???

After tacking up, 3, 6, 9, 12. The whole top half of the pipe was a tight gap. I always weld the tightest gap first. In this case I think I welded from 3 to 12. Then 9 to 12. The last inch or two of the section 9 to 12, the gap was really closing up on me. I'll bet, if I had the arc force all the way up, I could have just punched through! As you know Mark, I'm no pipe welder, by any stretch of the imagination!

Looks nice! Thanks for posting your settings, that will help me a lot! :thumbsup:

You're welcome!

 

[Code54]

I got one of the the 300's also and really like it. Just seems well made! I have an old lincoln A/C buzz box and don't know much about what I am doing but my welds always hold so I guess they are not too too bad.... With the 300 I expect they will get much better over time.
I notice the 300 seems much Hotter - I was undercutting until I figured out to cut it back a bit. Can anyone recommend a good book on stick welding that may help me understand more and learn more? Also it seems I have more trouble finding a GOOD ground, is that a difference been using AC and a DC machine? Just noticed that with my old AC machine I could hook the ground clamp 5' from where I was working and the rod would strike, but with the DC I seems to have to have it within several inches and make sure I have a very well cleaned area. Am I doing something wrong perhaps? The 300 seems like a VERY nice solid machine and once I learn more about it and how to use it I think I really become a much better welder!
On another note.... what is open root pipe - keep seeing it mentioned and was wondering what it means?

 

[Shield Arc]

Code54 here is a really good book. Lincoln sells them the cheapest.
You tube has some really good videos about welding.
Your ground issue seems strange to me, you may need to replace the ground clamp, or at least check the connection.

Open root pipe is when two piece of pipe are beveled, and a small gap between them. You weld from the outside, but end up with a bead on the inside of the pipe. With your new PA-300 you'll be there by next weekend.
Books

 

[rankrank1]

On another note.... what is open root pipe - keep seeing it mentioned and was wondering what it means?

Pipes are not butted together such that they touch. There is a slight gap between them (usually a rod diameter or whatever the code spec calls for)as well as a bevel on the mating surfaces. 6010 is used to do the first open root weld and then it is capped with 7018 usually. The goal is to have the inside of the pipe be fully welded just like the outside pipe is. And you can not see inside the pipe as you are welding long pieces together. You can not rotate the pipe either. The welder welds around the pipe.

Not an easy task but this is how pipelines and pipes in nuclear facilities are put together so welds have to be X-Ray quality and no leaks.

A Lanse video that will explain better

Open Root Stick Welding for Noobs (Part 1 of 4) - YouTube

 

[Code54]

Thanks , just ordered the book you suggested! I will check the ground clamp tomorrow and see if anything looks odd. Thank you for the information.

 

[rankrank1]

Well I got to use mine for like 20 minutes between rain storms. Arc quality seems very good. 6011 is easier to run for sure and I used the regular port not the special 6010 port. 6011 sure runs better with a tad bit of both hot start and arc force (liked 4 to 5 on both).

In general, it is easier for me to see the defined edges of puddle wash in with the PA-300.

Also some rods that absolutely would not run on my Miller Thunderbolt would run on the PA-300. The crap rods did not run great on the PA-300 but at least it ran em - certainly not the PA-300's fault as my Thunderbolt would not even run em.

I was playing around and doing silly stuff just to see what the effects of arc force and hot start were. Totally had a 1/8" diameter 6013 rod in an unnatural improper position for welding (basically pure horizontal but not touching the workpiece either). Surprisingly worked great for filling in a hole in some 12 gauge metal like this. My Thunderbolt would lose arc in this position for sure so no way would my Thunderbolt have worked to fill in the hole with the rod in that position like that. I normally use my wire feeder to fill in holes like that on thinner metal as using stick often makes the hole bigger. Oh well I will need to see if I can do it again.

Burned 3 different brands of 1/8 6011 and 2 different brands of 1/8" 6013. Will have to try some 7014 and 7018AC (I do not have any plain 7018) when I find time.