PA-300, my opinion.

   / PA-300, my opinion. #41  
Where the cable bolts to the clamp, not a big deal just snug it up with a wrench, could have loosened in transit. By the way, love the Welder!!!!
 
   / PA-300, my opinion. #42  
OK, finally got the outlet wired tonight and turned her on
It was about 9:30 by the time I got it wired up, turned her on and found some really crappy steel, ( one 1/4 plate that looks like its been laying outside rusting for 20 years) and a worn eXmark blade, ground the plate semi clean, ran some flats and they didn't look so hot, then I ran some fillets on the plate and eXmark blade, and the filets looked pretty good

I haven't picked up a stinger more than a couple of times in the last 10 years, I am sure a tid bit rusty
:p
 
   / PA-300, my opinion. #43  
Shield Arc said:
Code54 here is a really good book. Lincoln sells them the cheapest.
You tube has some really good videos about welding.
Your ground issue seems strange to me, you may need to replace the ground clamp, or at least check the connection.

Open root pipe is when two piece of pipe are beveled, and a small gap between them. You weld from the outside, but end up with a bead on the inside of the pipe. With your new PA-300 you'll be there by next weekend.;)
Books
Click to expand...

I ordered the book direct from Lincoln, looking forward to reading through it :thumbsup: now you're costing me money too :laughing:
 
   / PA-300, my opinion. #44  
Spending someone else's money is nice and easy :laughing:
 
   / PA-300, my opinion.
  • Thread Starter
#45  
I did a little more playing around with the new machine this morning.
5/32-inch Lincoln 5P-Plus 6010. 115-amps, 5-arc force.
This PA-300 runs 6010 so much better than my PA-200. I have a lot more control of the puddle just with arc length! :cool2:
 

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   / PA-300, my opinion. #46  
The newer 200ST units are supposed to handle a "little" longer arc length on 6010. (Theoretically speaking that is...though that may be a subjective claim that has been made, {not by me}).
 
   / PA-300, my opinion. #47  
Shield Arc said:
WOW! This thing really has a nice arc for 7018:thumbsup:. I ran some 1/8-inch ESAB Acclaim at 140-amps, 1 on the arc force. I tried different settings on the arc force, for flat welding I liked 1 the best. Not to be picky, but would like to see just a tad bit more wet out, but still very nice. For vertical up I'm sure I wouldn't go past 5 on the arc force.

For 6010 I ran some 5/32-inch Lincoln 5p-Pluse. 135-amps, and tried different settings on the arc force. All of them seemed very nice, but maybe I like 5 the best. This 300 runs different than my PA-200, I can hold a longer arc length with 6010 with the PA-300. To a degree I can control the flow of the puddle with the arc length, just like on my Short hoods, or my V350-Pro.

All in all very impressed with this machine!:cool2:
Click to expand...

Shield why is your slag looking like you can "blow" it off with a strong breath. Granted, I have never used 7018 but on my 6011 and 6013 and 7014 usage with an inverter welder type, the slag has to be hammered off quite deliberately as if imbedded in the weld. I burn 6011 at 90 and 7014 at 125 if amps have anything to do with it.
 
   / PA-300, my opinion. #48  
arrow said:
Shield why is your slag looking like you can "blow" it off with a strong breath. Granted, I have never used 7018 but on my 6011 and 6013 and 7014 usage with an inverter welder type, the slag has to be hammered off quite deliberately as if imbedded in the weld. I burn 6011 at 90 and 7014 at 125 if amps have anything to do with it.
Click to expand...

1) Cheap rods
2) Old rods
3) Wrong Polarity
4) Running too cold
5) Running too hot
6) Using a cellulose fluxed rod (like 6010 or 6011)...though if you want easier to peel flux go to straight polarity. (not typically used though)
7) Poor rod manipulation skills, i.e. holding too long of an arc...not letting puddle wet in on sides
8) Specifically for an inverter, using too much arc force, or even too little.
 
   / PA-300, my opinion.
  • Thread Starter
#49  
arrow I firmly believe these inverters like one brand of rod over the other. My PA-200 really likes ESAB's 10P-Plus. My V350-Pro, and the new PA-300 like 5P-Plus. Today I used ESAB 10P for the root, and the PA-300 did very well, but I tired one 5/32-inch rod of 10P for the cap, at 1 on the arc force, I didn't like it so I switched to 5/32-inch 5P-Plus, and it did very well. You just need to find the correct rod for you and your inverter welder. It's so strange to me, my SA-200s could care less what brand of rod you use!:confused3:
 
   / PA-300, my opinion. #50  
Mark @ Everlast said:
1) Cheap rods
2) Old rods
3) Wrong Polarity
4) Running too cold
5) Running too hot
6) Using a cellulose fluxed rod (like 6010 or 6011)...though if you want easier to peel flux go to straight polarity. (not typically used though)
7) Poor rod manipulation skills, i.e. holding too long of an arc...not letting puddle wet in on sides
8) Specifically for an inverter, using too much arc force, or even too little.
Click to expand...

Here is what applies to me.
Rods are Hobart (6011 and 7014)and 6013 and other 6011's are Fourney. 2. Rods are new or I should say bought within the month. 3. Polarity is red to red black to black. 4 and5. Played around with heat running rods hot,cold and in between and slag removal the same. 6. 6011 is cellulose and I wouldn't now how to change polarity. 7. Probably the most applicable but my welds do look normal on sides without undercut or side lift. 8. Cannot manipulate arc force on my welder if it is a dialed in procedure.
 
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