Painting cabinets

   / Painting cabinets #1  

deerefan

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2005
Messages
2,102
Location
louisiana
Tractor
1952 8N, 2005 JD 5103
Doing some upgrades in our kitchen, we are down to the last item- repainting the cabinets. We had new doors and drawer fronts made and I am priming them now. We are looking for durable paint that can withstand kids and cleanings/wipe downs. Also, satin or semi-gloss? My wife wants me to apply a "clear coat" after paint, is there a paint additive that does the same thing? Thanks for any and all help. Oh and the color we are using is linen white.
 
   / Painting cabinets #2  
With new cabinet doors and fronts, you need to make sure you get a good quality primer. I prefer the Zinsser brand of primers, but Sherwin Williams also sells a very good primer designed for raw wood. For the best results, easiest clean up and durability, nothing comes close to an oil based paint. Semi Gloss is the most common sheen used.

After sanding and cleaning with both a rag and vacuum, I would prime with the Zinsser BIN oil based primer, then after a full day of drying, I would pain with a good quality oil based paint from Sherwin Williams. The box stores just don't carry good oil based paints.

I have a Gracco HVLP spray gun that does a very nice job. The quality of the gun will show in the finished job.

Remember to tape and cover everything with plastic. When you spray, a small percentage of the paint will float in the air and settle on every single exposed surface there. Where a mask and cover every bit of skin you can, because what you miss will also have paint on it that you will have to use paint thinner to get off.

If you do not want to go with oil based and a brush/roller finish is acceptable, then stick with Valspar at Lowes or go to the specialty stores like Sherwin Williams or Kelly Moore. Paint went through government regulations a few years ago and they all had to reinvent it. Some companies that used to make decent paint, like Behr, don't anymore. Valspar is the only box store brand that is still half way decent. Also be aware that paint with primer in it is just a sales gimmick to try to make their paint sound better then paint without it. All you are getting is a better grade of paint. You cannot replace what primer does, which is bond and seal the surface to allow better adhesion of the paint with a uniform finish.

Go with a good primer. For brush or roller, I like the Zinsser 123 for raw wood and sheetrock.

With paint, you get what you pay for, and the more effort you put into it, the better the results.

I've never heard of or used a clear coat on a painted cabinet. Clear coats are for stained wood.

Eddie
 
   / Painting cabinets #3  
Spent yesterday turning over a vacant apartment with painted cabinets... painted them in 1996 with old fashioned Oil Enamel... 20 years later still great... almost like a car paint finish.

I would avoid anything latex... just me.

Problem is Oil Enamel is just about gone here... some carry quarts, most no longer make it do to the paint VOC regs.

The cabinets in the laundry room at the place my brother bought had a very nice enamel finish... sister-in-law was about to go over with latex and I stopped her... would have been a huge mess... adhesion and durability and cleanability.

For durability a stained cabinet is the most cost effective... a little Old English at turnover and looking good.
 
   / Painting cabinets
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Thanks guys. So far I have applied 2 coats of kilz general purpose interior water base primer/sealer. It is working well, but I feel I may have made an error with this. Hopefully I do not have an adhesion issue when wiping the cabinets down. The paint we have chosen is latex. I do not think I can apply an oil based paint over the primer I used?
 
   / Painting cabinets #5  
I know it is more of a problem when using latex over oil... especially semi and gloss.. the same properties that make these finishes great for washing down cause adhesion issues.

Works ok going the other way because the oil bites into the latex primer.

One point is water based use to be notorious for raising the grain in the wood... water is absorbed by the wood and swells... this was another reason for non water base products.

Zinser makes a product called Perma White that says it can be used over oil... I have used it and it is ok after knocking down by scuff sanding... still not the same as oil.

By the way... Perma White is the only product I use in closets and bathrooms for my rentals is oil is not an issue...

Never having to deal with mold is a huge plus when managing rentals... but this is a subject for another time.
 
   / Painting cabinets #6  
Thanks guys. So far I have applied 2 coats of kilz general purpose interior water base primer/sealer. It is working well, but I feel I may have made an error with this. Hopefully I do not have an adhesion issue when wiping the cabinets down. The paint we have chosen is latex. I do not think I can apply an oil based paint over the primer I used?

I did a fast job with Kilz and a basic latex about ten years ago. It did the job. Survived the renovation activities, 3 kids, two dogs and me in the kitchen all these years. Rolled it on. That was the time consuming part.
 
   / Painting cabinets #7  
I have been using milk paint (two coats) with two coats of pure tung oil (mixed 50-50 with citrus solvent) wiped on. I have been happy with the results on my chairs. (Realmilkpaint.com) I was surprised at the different colors they had available.
 
   / Painting cabinets #8  
.



When I owned rental property I used an expensive oil based Benjamin Moore gloss in the kitchen. It would last several tennats. The other rooms got a middle of the road latex.



.
 
   / Painting cabinets #9  
When I was painting, if there was an adhesion issue, we always primed with white shellack. The folks who did the wall papering appreciated us painting over the lacquer overspray too.
 
   / Painting cabinets #10  
When I was painting, if there was an adhesion issue, we always primed with white shellack. The folks who did the wall papering appreciated us painting over the lacquer overspray too.




Oh, speaking of adhesion, instead of laboriously sanding the gloss off the old paint, I found that washing w TSP (which was necessary anyway bec of the dirt) would knock down the gloss and let the new paint stick.



.
 
 
Top