Pallet forks suppose to be loose or SSQA bracket improperly made?

[ovrszd]

Yep, my welds with my old Lincoln 225 were all goobered up, but it worked! Ended up buying me a Miller Mig machine.

I made that same transition. Still have the Lincoln and once or twice a year I'll use it on something I can't reach with the Mig head.

A Mig Welder makes you look like a professional welder after using a stick huh!!!!

 

[Fallon]

Amusingly I only have TIG gear & only have (moderate at best) TIG skill. I've only done a very little stick & MIG back in high school shop class in the mid 90's :confused2:

 

[rwork]

I made that same transition. Still have the Lincoln and once or twice a year I'll use it on something I can't reach with the Mig head.

A Mig Welder makes you look like a professional welder after using a stick huh!!!!

You're absolutely correct. I spend more time admiring my mig welds, than it took for the project !!

 

[ovrszd]

Amusingly I only have TIG gear & only have (moderate at best) TIG skill. I've only done a very little stick & MIG back in high school shop class in the mid 90's :confused2:

I have no knowledge of TIG welding. Always wanted to learn but never fell into any TIG equipment cheap.

 

[k0ua]

I have no knowledge of TIG welding. Always wanted to learn but never fell into any TIG equipment cheap.

Do you have a DC welder? If so you can get started in scratch start TIG for less than $100 for the torch/tungstens, and then either rent or buy and argon bottle (depends on where you are) and the regulator is about $25.. Can't do aluminum but steel, stainless steel/copper,brass are all fair game with that. It is the neatest/coolest/funnest of all of the welding processes. I am doing it with my little Everlast PA160 stick machine.

 

[ovrszd]

Do you have a DC welder? If so you can get started in scratch start TIG for less than $100 for the torch/tungstens, and then either rent or buy and argon bottle (depends on where you are) and the regulator is about $25.. Can't do aluminum but steel, stainless steel/copper,brass are all fair game with that. It is the neatest/coolest/funnest of all of the welding processes. I am doing it with my little Everlast PA160 stick machine.

Yeah, I've got a 225 AC/DC Lincoln. I'll hafta Google this subject and educate myself. I'd like to try it!!! Thanks for the tip!!!!

 

[k0ua]

Yeah, I've got a 225 AC/DC Lincoln. I'll hafta Google this subject and educate myself. I'd like to try it!!! Thanks for the tip!!!!

The only downside to the Lincoln is the switched taps instead of continous variable. You just have to work around that, and move faster or slower to regulate your heat.. it is a compromise, but you still can do some nice work with them. You will need a 17V series torch, the V is for "valve" meaning it has a manual controlled valve on the torch. YOU are the gas solenoid. You will need a "power block" to clip your stinger to to power the torch. I like Lanthaneted tungstens either the blue or the gold. It is all old school TIG compared to the modern high dollar dedicated TIG rigs, but hey it is cheap, and you can TIG weld with it. and millions of "old School" TIG welds have been made thru the years.

Tig Welding Old School with Scratch Start - Homemade Tig Welder | welding-tv.com

 

[ovrszd]

The only downside to the Lincoln is the switched taps instead of continous variable. You just have to work around that, and move faster or slower to regulate your heat.. it is a compromise, but you still can do some nice work with them. You will need a 17V series torch, the V is for "valve" meaning it has a manual controlled valve on the torch. YOU are the gas solenoid. You will need a "power block" to clip your stinger to to power the torch. I like Lanthaneted tungstens either the blue or the gold. It is all old school TIG compared to the modern high dollar dedicated TIG rigs, but hey it is cheap, and you can TIG weld with it. and millions of "old School" TIG welds have been made thru the years.

Tig Welding Old School with Scratch Start - Homemade Tig Welder | welding-tv.com

Another great tip!!! Thanks again!!!

 

[rsallen]

Hmmmm,
Is this a thread about the deficiencies of the product originally posted about or a meme on modification techniques and welding equipment?

I don't care if a manufacturer is willing to give me 'some' compensation for time lost or for time modifying said piece of equipment just so as it can do it's job. Said piece of equipment should have come to me as advertised. Not modified to application (ie. to your piece of standard measured equipment).

If it were a man you hired that said he could do the job, but oh by the way you found out you've got to train him after the hiring, you'd fire him in a second.
How is it that second rate equipment gets a pass?

 

[Fallon]

They just gave me a $75 credit, so I'm satisfied for the transaction at this point. The welder down the street charges $60-75 an hour (hit him up for something after I moved in before I got my shop wired to support my welder), so even if I had to pay somebody to fix it, I wouldn't be taking a hit.

As far as if it were a man... My company frequently sends me to training. The forks actually do their job, even with the loose fitting. That slop will probably end up wearing or breaking the pins though.

Yes everything should be perfect from the get go, but it's not. Just look at Harbor Freight, a lot of their stuff is pretty poor quality, but they are still in business (probably due to a good return policy). As I've said, no matter what you buy or how much you pay there is a chance of getting something defective, it all boils down to the support & warranty behind the product. I willingly bought the cheapest pallet forks I could find (I've been happy with all other aspects of the forks). Sometimes cheap means paying in other ways, like spending time to fix it. If I'd paid for super deluxe forks made out of unobtanium at triple the price I'd probably have had a lesser opinion of the transaction. Sometimes you need the DeWalt, sometimes your fine with the Harbor Freight.