Pan. Percussion drill DY Need help and ideas
- Thread starter irenesg
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BHD
Veteran Member
I redrew the swinging arm idea, I hope you can see it now,
I would most likely change the cable attachment to out some more as it would give a greater drop, (you may want to have a number of points one can attach to, to see what is working best in practice,
by having a winch or a tie point behind you will need to lower the rope from time to time as it digs, and lower to get the maximum drop and not to run out of drop so the machine takes all the brunt of the drop,
from what I now the 40 meters, the 130 feet, should not be that hard to reach,
but a lot will depend on the layers of soil and rock and gravel you go through,
in some places you will need drilling mud, (which is used to strengthen the side walls of the hole to keep it from caving in), and if you hit rock the going may be very slow, and may need some better bits,
also once one hits water it may be hard to get deeper, as the water will most likely allow the hole to cave, so one may have to drive a casein and then bail out the casein hole,
here is a rough set of plans for a cable rig,
How to build a small cabletool drilling rig
when you go to the buy page it is under "OTHER",
allot of the section on drilling is the military manual that can be down loaded for free in other places, but the ideas on the rig are good in my opinion.
FM 5-484 Table of Contents most of the manual is on rotary drilling,
one other thing besides bits and balers you will need a set of "JARS" on the bit, a jar is a slip connection that one can get a run at to jerk the bit loose if it gets stuck, usually some form of two "U" shaped steel links that are in line above the bit,
I would most likely change the cable attachment to out some more as it would give a greater drop, (you may want to have a number of points one can attach to, to see what is working best in practice,
by having a winch or a tie point behind you will need to lower the rope from time to time as it digs, and lower to get the maximum drop and not to run out of drop so the machine takes all the brunt of the drop,
from what I now the 40 meters, the 130 feet, should not be that hard to reach,
but a lot will depend on the layers of soil and rock and gravel you go through,
in some places you will need drilling mud, (which is used to strengthen the side walls of the hole to keep it from caving in), and if you hit rock the going may be very slow, and may need some better bits,
also once one hits water it may be hard to get deeper, as the water will most likely allow the hole to cave, so one may have to drive a casein and then bail out the casein hole,
here is a rough set of plans for a cable rig,
How to build a small cabletool drilling rig
when you go to the buy page it is under "OTHER",
allot of the section on drilling is the military manual that can be down loaded for free in other places, but the ideas on the rig are good in my opinion.
FM 5-484 Table of Contents most of the manual is on rotary drilling,
one other thing besides bits and balers you will need a set of "JARS" on the bit, a jar is a slip connection that one can get a run at to jerk the bit loose if it gets stuck, usually some form of two "U" shaped steel links that are in line above the bit,
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BHD
Veteran Member
the reason I think the swing arm is important in a home made rid or a small rig, is the most like weight of the bit, I realize the large rigs have the crank similar to your drawing, but the bits and bit string weight 500 to 1000 pounds, most home made rigs would be doing good to have a bit that weighs a few hundred pound if that,
now if I have 700 pounds hitting the ground I most likely do not need much force to drive it down as just siting there you have (4") bit, would have close to 56 pounds per square inch just setting with out any drop and no point or points,
if you only have a bit that weighs say 125 pounds, and fugue that out, it would be only 10 pounds per square inch of force on the face of it, now if you let that free fall you lighter bit would do much more work, (now If i figure it correctly if that 165 pound (75kg)weight is dropped free fall about three feet,(1 meter), it is mulpliedyed to a force of about, 1617 pounds (824Kg) sort of, if the rate is slowed so is the impact force, now if you have 700 pounds that is less important than if it is a lighter bit, (note: if I calculated that correctly)
take a pipe or a bar out and slowly raise it and lower it into the ground and then take the same bar and let it free fall or even forcefully drive it, the I think you will see that it will dig faster with the free fall or the forced push,
on some of the videos and manuals it appears that his commercial units use bits that weigh in the 500 or 800 pound range,
(granted I am in my design stage of my rig as well, but that is my reasoning on the free fall arm).
now if I have 700 pounds hitting the ground I most likely do not need much force to drive it down as just siting there you have (4") bit, would have close to 56 pounds per square inch just setting with out any drop and no point or points,
if you only have a bit that weighs say 125 pounds, and fugue that out, it would be only 10 pounds per square inch of force on the face of it, now if you let that free fall you lighter bit would do much more work, (now If i figure it correctly if that 165 pound (75kg)weight is dropped free fall about three feet,(1 meter), it is mulpliedyed to a force of about, 1617 pounds (824Kg) sort of, if the rate is slowed so is the impact force, now if you have 700 pounds that is less important than if it is a lighter bit, (note: if I calculated that correctly)
take a pipe or a bar out and slowly raise it and lower it into the ground and then take the same bar and let it free fall or even forcefully drive it, the I think you will see that it will dig faster with the free fall or the forced push,
on some of the videos and manuals it appears that his commercial units use bits that weigh in the 500 or 800 pound range,
(granted I am in my design stage of my rig as well, but that is my reasoning on the free fall arm).
BHD.....thank you very much.... thats an eye opener.
well reading your explanation it make sense therefor i gonna get your idea to engineer to do some calculation and cad drawing....hopefully the result will be that good as you mentioned earlier.
the friction, the impact and force calculation will sure help. hope we share more info as if its gonna be good idea i gonna build it.
well reading your explanation it make sense therefor i gonna get your idea to engineer to do some calculation and cad drawing....hopefully the result will be that good as you mentioned earlier.
the friction, the impact and force calculation will sure help. hope we share more info as if its gonna be good idea i gonna build it.
zapotegator
New member
- Joined
- Apr 27, 2011
- Messages
- 2
BHD, I'm in Nicaragua trying to puzzle out the winching system we can use to get water wells dug for families without access to clean water. Your drawing is helping me out quite a bit but if you could help walk me through a couple of the details, I would be very appreciative. Am I correct that the rod with counterclockwise arrows around it is powered by a motor or could it be done manually without motor power? Could you help jumpstart my brain as to how that might be done?! The winch itself must be holding the wire at a constant level and only operated up or down to bring out the bit and jars; is that true? Thanks for your help! If we get up and running here in the next couple of months, I'll post some info of what worked and what we did wrong. I think with you all's help, I can avoid a lot of the wrong.
tommu56
Elite Member
Welcome to the Forum!
Do you have access to youtube?
Try googling (any search engine will do ) "homemade well drilling".
Look at some of the video's posted (i don't have access to youtube right now but) when I get home I can post some links to watch for ideas.
What is your soil type?
Good luck on your endeavor.
tom
Try and get a copy of "Build your own Drilling Rig"
Auther Don McDouall Australia
Try eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home decor
or Tractor Manuals Dowunder - dedicated to the farm tractors of yesteryear.
Auther Don McDouall Australia
Try eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home decor
or Tractor Manuals Dowunder - dedicated to the farm tractors of yesteryear.
zapotegator
New member
- Joined
- Apr 27, 2011
- Messages
- 2
Thanks all. I think I will order the diy manual. I had written to him to ask about a digital download but there's no way to go but hardcopy, in the mail, from Australia. I hate to wait but I'm sure there's some character building aspect to it, so wait I will. The soil is alternating clay, dirt and rock going down about 5 meters,and then weathered layer of hard rock. It can be penetrated because there are local guys there that hand dig wells through it. But there's not too much further that a person can go once they get through the rock and hit water. We want to penetrate the rock and go deeper to develop longer lasting wells in the area. We've asked a couple of good welders to build up the A frame and cross bit with a bailer layed out in the Unicef manual on percussion well drilling. We've got a good Fulton 2 speed winch that we can use to pull and drop. I'd like to get a cathead setup but I wonder if that would work with 7/16" wire cable?
