ScottAR
Veteran Member
I used my F350 for a roller last time I patched a pothole but it was a small one on a little used part of a parking lot. Seemed to work well, but for a road or often used driveway I'd want a little roller.
patching a paved road?
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togoffrd
New member
As others has said, it should be no problem for you to do this yourself. You didn't say how many holes your patching, or square footage, but if there are large holes like 3x3 or larger, I would rent a plate compactor, the kind with the water tank on it to keep the asphalt from sticking to it. You will still need the hand tamper for smaller holes. The better compaction you get, the longer your patch will last.
Put the hot mix in lifts, 1.5 - 2 inches should be about the maximum to do by hand, and it would be best to use some kind of tack on the edges, maybe some of that do it yourself kind of seal coat or roofing sealer from Home Depot? Put the mix in, rake it smooth and level, compact. If you watch how much compaction you get in the first lifts, you can judge how much you'll need to have raked up above the surface to get a smooth finished surface. There will some trail and error, it's pretty forgiving stuff. A propane weed burner could be of some value too.
Also a coat of diesel on the shovels and lutes will keep them from caking up with asphalt, and will help clean them up when your done.
Try it yourself before you hire it out, a ton of mix and renting a compactor, will probably cost about the same as a contractor will get for one hole.
Put the hot mix in lifts, 1.5 - 2 inches should be about the maximum to do by hand, and it would be best to use some kind of tack on the edges, maybe some of that do it yourself kind of seal coat or roofing sealer from Home Depot? Put the mix in, rake it smooth and level, compact. If you watch how much compaction you get in the first lifts, you can judge how much you'll need to have raked up above the surface to get a smooth finished surface. There will some trail and error, it's pretty forgiving stuff. A propane weed burner could be of some value too.
Also a coat of diesel on the shovels and lutes will keep them from caking up with asphalt, and will help clean them up when your done.
Try it yourself before you hire it out, a ton of mix and renting a compactor, will probably cost about the same as a contractor will get for one hole.
Soundguy
Old Timer
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I agree. And for lots of small holes.. I'd go with cold pre-baged mix.. otherwise the hot stuff will cool down by the time you get to all the holes.
The tack is very important for getting the patches to stick..as well as a cleaned out hole.
Soundguy
The tack is very important for getting the patches to stick..as well as a cleaned out hole.
Soundguy
Highbeam
Super Member
"...i researched "asphalt" and found a life cycle analysis curve. Imagine this, the curve indicated asphalt will start to fail between 15 and 20 years of age."
The life cycle of asphalt depends on planty of things other than years. The thickness and loading of the asphalt are the big ones assuming you put it in right.
Find an actual petroleum based product like a coal tar driveway sealer for tack. It's purpose is to glue the old asphalt to the new and prevent water from getting down between. After you're done with the patch, go back over the joint and put more tar down, sprinkle sand on top so that it won't be sticky in the heat of the summer. The true tack is termed "coal tar pitch emulsion" by our state DOT.
You can rent the plate compactors from rental yards. They are about the size of a lawnmower and not hard to handle. The benefit with this or a roller is that you can ride on the existing asphalt to be sure that the patch is level with it.
I should have clarified that the squareness of the hole is more important in the vertical direction.
Asphalt will stay hot for a long time. In WA it is delivered in non-insulated dump trucks with a minimum temperature of application near 180. You can reheat with a weed burner, most of the asphalt spreader machines use propane burners to bring it up to temp.
Diesel on your tools, diesel on your box, and diesel on your shoes if you need to walk on it.
The life cycle of asphalt depends on planty of things other than years. The thickness and loading of the asphalt are the big ones assuming you put it in right.
Find an actual petroleum based product like a coal tar driveway sealer for tack. It's purpose is to glue the old asphalt to the new and prevent water from getting down between. After you're done with the patch, go back over the joint and put more tar down, sprinkle sand on top so that it won't be sticky in the heat of the summer. The true tack is termed "coal tar pitch emulsion" by our state DOT.
You can rent the plate compactors from rental yards. They are about the size of a lawnmower and not hard to handle. The benefit with this or a roller is that you can ride on the existing asphalt to be sure that the patch is level with it.
I should have clarified that the squareness of the hole is more important in the vertical direction.
Asphalt will stay hot for a long time. In WA it is delivered in non-insulated dump trucks with a minimum temperature of application near 180. You can reheat with a weed burner, most of the asphalt spreader machines use propane burners to bring it up to temp.
Diesel on your tools, diesel on your box, and diesel on your shoes if you need to walk on it.
Egon
Epic Contributor
Ah yes the clean up. The asphalt has a tendency to jump up and stick to any item of equipment or clothing that comes near it. Coveralls help. Gloves are essential. The shoes get to live outside for awhile till either they wear out or the asphalt wears off.
Just another note:
You can burn your feet walking on hot asphalt and the rakes used are not your garden type. A square nosed shovel also comes in handy. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Raking developes character!!
Egon /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Just another note:
You can burn your feet walking on hot asphalt and the rakes used are not your garden type. A square nosed shovel also comes in handy. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Raking developes character!!
Egon /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Soundguy
Old Timer
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( "...i researched "asphalt" and found a life cycle analysis curve. Imagine this, the curve indicated asphalt will start to fail between 15 and 20 years of age."
The life cycle of asphalt depends on planty of things other than years. The thickness and loading of the asphalt are the big ones assuming you put it in right.
)</font>
That quote dind't come from my post.. must have found it elsewhere.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The thickness and loading of the asphalt are the big ones assuming you put it in right.
)</font>
Right under loading, amount of traffic would be next in my opinion. Types of tires being driven on it will make a huge difference, as well as spilled petro products, and type of surface coarse used. Prep of the shoulders will also influence life. Nothing like an eroded shoulder to kill an otherwise good road.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Find an actual petroleum based product like a coal tar driveway sealer for tack )</font>
Probably less confusing to ask for a 'bituminous' based product, and not simple a petro based product... all things being equal, and one day some well meaning person will be out there using used motor oil for tack, thinking they are doing something good.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The true tack is termed "coal tar pitch emulsion" by our state DOT )</font>
Here in florida, Special MS ( asphault water emulsion ) is a favorite.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Asphalt will stay hot for a long time. In WA it is delivered in non-insulated dump trucks with a minimum temperature of application near 180. You can reheat with a weed burner, most of the asphalt spreader machines use propane burners to bring it up to temp.
)</font>
At the plant you can see 450-300 degrees when loade don the truck.. and like you say.. works well at 180....but sounds like this guy is not buying 16-18 yards tons of asphalt.. but rather buying a yard.. or so.. something small like that is going to cool down reaaaal fast.. especiall if he is driving all over a road making small patches in an non-heated truck..
For small patches.. I like the cold patch... unless there's a road or driveway going in on an ajoining road/job.. etc.
Soundguy
The life cycle of asphalt depends on planty of things other than years. The thickness and loading of the asphalt are the big ones assuming you put it in right.
)</font>
That quote dind't come from my post.. must have found it elsewhere.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The thickness and loading of the asphalt are the big ones assuming you put it in right.
)</font>
Right under loading, amount of traffic would be next in my opinion. Types of tires being driven on it will make a huge difference, as well as spilled petro products, and type of surface coarse used. Prep of the shoulders will also influence life. Nothing like an eroded shoulder to kill an otherwise good road.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Find an actual petroleum based product like a coal tar driveway sealer for tack )</font>
Probably less confusing to ask for a 'bituminous' based product, and not simple a petro based product... all things being equal, and one day some well meaning person will be out there using used motor oil for tack, thinking they are doing something good.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The true tack is termed "coal tar pitch emulsion" by our state DOT )</font>
Here in florida, Special MS ( asphault water emulsion ) is a favorite.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Asphalt will stay hot for a long time. In WA it is delivered in non-insulated dump trucks with a minimum temperature of application near 180. You can reheat with a weed burner, most of the asphalt spreader machines use propane burners to bring it up to temp.
)</font>
At the plant you can see 450-300 degrees when loade don the truck.. and like you say.. works well at 180....but sounds like this guy is not buying 16-18 yards tons of asphalt.. but rather buying a yard.. or so.. something small like that is going to cool down reaaaal fast.. especiall if he is driving all over a road making small patches in an non-heated truck..
For small patches.. I like the cold patch... unless there's a road or driveway going in on an ajoining road/job.. etc.
Soundguy
Egon
Epic Contributor
Asphalt starts to deteriorate as soon as it leaves the plant. Just an exponetial curve as to degree.
Egon /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Egon /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
crashz
Veteran Member
A little trick from an old paving guy, is to pinch the edges. Taking your compacting device and ride it along the old pavement, only compacting about an inch of the patch right at the edges. Do this first, before you compact the rest of the patch. This marries the new pavement to the old, with no edge, making a smooth transition and won't spill any blacktop over the cut edges of the patch. It also helps seal the edges from water damage.
Nasty135
Veteran Member
st 1c2, Well with out knowing the actual amount of patch size, I assume it might be quite size-able (talking about pick-up truck load of blacktop)
I have had success by choping out old hole with a large chisel squarely then packing base (my tamper is a 5' 6x6 pressure treated post with handles on the sides)then packing in the cold patch a little at a time tamping pretty heavily about at inch or so at a time, when sealed almost indetectable /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
May have to rent one of those light roller tampers with a vibrating pulse that quadrupples the weight value(can be turned on or off as needed)
Good Luck!! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif Not going to be fun
I have had success by choping out old hole with a large chisel squarely then packing base (my tamper is a 5' 6x6 pressure treated post with handles on the sides)then packing in the cold patch a little at a time tamping pretty heavily about at inch or so at a time, when sealed almost indetectable /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
May have to rent one of those light roller tampers with a vibrating pulse that quadrupples the weight value(can be turned on or off as needed)
Good Luck!! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif Not going to be fun
