Patio Refrigerator and Freezer Question?

[Slowpoke Slim]

I wager I'm not the only one that wouldn't know how to do the test you suggested. Knowing how would be handy and undoubtedlly go a long way in understanding electrical troubleshooting in general. In the situation under discussion here,will you explain the proceedure?

Well I would start with looking at the data plates on both the (now) dead freezer and the refrigerator. They should have listed on them not only their "run" load (after compressor has kicked on and is running steady) and their "surge" load (which is the initial startup of the compressor/motor). It's the initial surge current listing we're after. Add both of those loads together, since they are on the same circuit, and that is our target "test" load.

A tool like this one (it's just an example):

AC Circuit Load Tester | Fastenal

Is then used to test the circuit at the test point. Which for me would be at the end of that flimsy 14ga extension cord. And I want to closely match the load with my tester, that I calculate the "actual" load of the 2 appliances when they energize at the same time.

There are other tools out there that let you set a wider range of test loads, but one like in the example should cover most light duty "homeowner type" needs.

 

[kenmac]

Do you seriously believe you can take a meaningful reading from the freezer that went belly up?

Easy ! Here are the instructions. Follow carefully:
Repair dead freezer, (2) connect amp meter, (3) proceed to check amp draw.

No one here knows what failed on the freezer, or even if the extension cord was what caused the freezer to stop working.
Could just be a start relay, thermostat. I have repaired many

 

[jaxs]

Just as I suspected.

 

[CobyRupert]

No test required. Voltage drop is a function of conductor resistance and current.
Ohms Law: Voltage (drop) = Current (load) x Resistance (cable’s).
Resistance of #12 awg (solid) is 1.93 ohms/1000’
#14 awg (solid) is 3.07 ohms/1000’
#16 awg (7 strand) is 4.99 ohm/1000’
…so the resistance of the wire or extension cord is the length of the cable x2 because the current travels out and back (that is, there’s 2 wires in cable, the distance of the wires is 2x the cable length).

Example: 15amp load x 4.99ohm/1000’ x 500’ wire length x 2 = 75 volt (drop) in the cable.
So 120v (source) -75 volt drop leaves you with 45 volts at the load.

Voltage drop is dependent on what load (current) is being drawn. When there’s no load, a 500’ #16 awg extension cord will have NO voltage drop and the voltage will be the same as the panel mains (~120V).

Freezer should have a nameplate or tag in or on it that tells you it’s running amps.

 

[kenmac]

Just as I suspected.

so simple a cave man can figure it out

 

[ultrarunner]

Dead Freezer is gone…

Never did see it after the fact… only told about it.

Right now patio outlet has the following plugged in:

Small Chest Freezer (reported to be 2 years old received as gift from sister)

Extension Cord to Carport for Lights

75’ Extension Cord to Gazebo Lights

 

[buckeyefarmer]

I thought I put my basement fridge on same circuit as the freezer, went and looked last night and I had ran a separate dedicated outlet for the fridge, so both have a dedicated 20A circuit. I’d forgotten I did it right.