Pat's Easy Change Pat's Easy Change System

Mike120 · May 19, 2008

First of all, this is not a criticism of Pat's system. I've got a quick hitch on my little tractor which is fine for small stuff, but Pat's system with a hydraulic top link is the best thing I've found for Cat 2 implements. That is?.until you try to take them off.

The tractor they are on gets about 700 hrs a year with numerous implement changes daily. The end hooks get beat up and I'm not the best about keeping them tight. First the springs busted and I replaced them (Pat sent them for free) then the latch handles broke off. I got tired of manually unlatching stuff and I decided to replace them so I bought another set.

The fun began when I tried to take off the old ones, Naturally all of the adjusting bolts were rusted and frozen. A few minutes with a metal blade in my sawzall took care of them. The problem was that the 1" pin going through the ball-end was seriously frozen. I doused it with PB Blaster and beat on it for a while with no results. I finally prevailed with a combination of cutting torch, 4" grinder, and sledgehammer. I would rather not repeat the experience when it comes time to replace this set. I'll also try to be nicer to them as well.

I'm considering grinding the new 1" pin down slightly so it doesn't fit as tightly in the ball. I've also thought about putting some grooves on the pin so that I can squirt some WD-40 on it once in a while to keep it from seizing up. Anybody got any better suggestions??

I need to put the new ones on pretty quick. I hooked up a carryall to the tractor last night and without the hooks it was a real pain.

JerryG · May 19, 2008

Mike120 said:
First the springs busted and I replaced them (Pat sent them for free) then the latch handles broke off. I got tired of manually unlatching stuff and I decided to replace them so I bought another set.

How in the world did you break the latch handles off?

3RRL · May 19, 2008

JerryG said:
How in the world did you break the latch handles off?

Don't know how Mike did it, but it's pretty common for me to inadvertently stand on mine and bend them.

Mike, you can consider adding a grease nipple to the pins like this. These are not for Pat's, but shows how you could install a grease fitting into a pin for lubrication.

AlanB · May 19, 2008

I would think a good greasing with a Moly grease or good antisieze would make them come out later fairly easily. With the Pat's in and mounted there should be very little, if any movement to displace the grease, and the Pat's themselves would act somewhat as a sheild.

Mike120 · May 20, 2008

Thanks guys!

Breaking off the latch handles is easy....just run without springs for a while and they'll break off. Even with Cat 2 pins or sleeves on Cat 1 pins, there is some play. Ground engagement implements bounce around and after a while without springs the latches will just diaappear. I was using baling twine to keep them from opening, but it didn't keep them from vibrating. I guess it weakened the weld. I'll be better about keeping the springs in this new pair.

3RRL, that was one of my thoughts, but I doubt that I would do anything as neat as the pins in your pictures. Having reflected on the experience, my thoughts are that the paint on the pins is likely the cause of the sticking. I suspect that over time, the paint swells and combines with the rust to form a bond. I'm going to strip them and put a couple of grooves in the new ones, along with a liberal coating of grease. We'll see in a few years how successful it is. Hopefully I'll never have to replace them and I can just trade them in when I replace that tractor.

Pat has made a few minor changes in the new ones that I expect will make it easier to keep them tight. The springs look easier to replace as well.

PATG · May 20, 2008

Mike120,

I would have replaced the latches. If you want call me and I can send them to you and you can maybe find someone that would like a deal on a used set. About a year ago we changed over to all stainless steel springs as opposed to the zinc plated. More expensive but seem to be holding up a lot better. About that time we changed the set screws to hex head bolts, seems to be a lot easier. We have recently changed how the spring attaches to the latch handle and it seems to work a lot better. We keep trying to listen to you guy's suggestions and improve. As for the main pin rusting, that is a first for me. But I will listen to any suggestions to help.

Thanks

Flatheadyoungin · May 20, 2008

Neversieze is your best friend........

I got my set of used Pat's (look new!) the other day. I haven't got a chance to completely put them on, yet. Pat, you say you switched to a hex head bolt in place of the allen set screws?

Inspector507 · May 20, 2008

PATG said:
We have recently changed how the spring attaches to the latch handle and it seems to work a lot better.

Thanks

I sure hope you've redesigned the cotter pin attachment. Mine broke years ago and I have just never taken them off to replace the cotter pins.

3RRL · May 21, 2008

Mine have been so abused I'll bet I've replace broken bolts several times now.
I love them so much though, I'm considering just welding on to the drag links.
I will never take them off anyway.

PATG · May 21, 2008

Yes, we changed the set screws about a year ago to hex head bolts. We figured more people would have a wrench to fit than hunt an allen wrench. We did change the cotter keys to stainless steel about two years ago. Once again, more expensive but a lot more durable. Contact me and I would be happy to send you the cotter key. If you use a large pair of channel locks to squeeze from the top and bottom the cotter key goes in pretty easy.

Thanks

RollTideRam · May 21, 2008

I took mine off once, to put on my new tractor. JC

Mike120 · May 21, 2008

Thanks Pat!

After you sent the springs, I would have felt bad about asking you for new latches. I abused the poor things. I further abused them when I took them off. Not much left for resale....those things are really well built. It sure didn't bother me in the least to buy another set.

As I said before, I think the pin sticking was caused by the paint on the pins. That tractor was new when I installed them. There was some residual left inside the balls when I put the new ones on last night. I sanded them out, took the paint off the ball contact part of the pins, put a groove in them, and put a bunch of JD green grease on them. I expect the groove will be unneccessary, but I thought I'd try it.

I do like the changes you've made to them and promise to take better care of this set. Thanks for a great product and super customer service!

Mike

Inspector507 · May 21, 2008

PATG said:
Contact me and I would be happy to send you the cotter key.

Thanks

Pat, somehow I knew you'd say that

, but I don't see a need to pull them off in the near future. They still work I just don't use the springs. IF I should pull them off for some stupid reason, I'll take you up on that offer.

Charlesaf3 · May 22, 2008

I just put my Pats on - so far seem pretty nice. I wish I'd done something about the pin before putting it in, reading this, but I guess it'll just go on the list. It was a tight fit in the balls, which generally seems like a good think.

Here's a thought - what about wrapping the pin with teflon tape or smearing teflon pipe dope on it - think that would do any good?

Flatheadyoungin · May 22, 2008

Just use some neversieze....doesn't seem to weather badly, solvents hardly penetrate it.....hard to get off hands!

....good stuff!

Charlesaf3 said:
I just put my Pats on - so far seem pretty nice. I wish I'd done something about the pin before putting it in, reading this, but I guess it'll just go on the list. It was a tight fit in the balls, which generally seems like a good think.

Here's a thought - what about wrapping the pin with teflon tape or smearing teflon pipe dope on it - think that would do any good?

outdoorstom · May 22, 2008

I installed Pat's system recently (bought them months ago) and love how easy it was to back up to my BH and hook right up. Unfortunately, my toplink is too short now. I knew this was a possibility when I bought this. Where's the best place to buy a longer toplink? My local TSC doesn't have any. I've got a Cat II that is 32" extended. I think I need one about 6 inches longer. Any ideas guys? Thanks in advance.

3RRL · May 22, 2008

There are all kinds of places including TSC online. Heck, with gas prices the waythey are, it might be cheaper to have one shipped to you?

Here's another place to try Agri-Supply Top Links

But this is where you should go for what you really need. CCM Hydraulic Top Link

outdoorstom · May 22, 2008

3RRL said:
There are all kinds of places including TSC online. Heck, with gas prices the waythey are, it might be cheaper to have one shipped to you?
Here's another place to try Agri-Supply Top Links

But this is where you should go for what you really need. CCM Hydraulic Top Link

Thanks for steering me in the right direction!