Penetrating oils tested

[czechsonofagun]

Found this on different forum; interesting:

Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce
None ................. 516 pounds .
WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25
PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35
Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21
Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75
ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10

The ATF-Acetone mix was a 50/50 mix (1 to 1 ratio)."

 

[LMTC]

I assume the poundage is force required to break whatever was tested free after using the listed product? I don't have numbers, but I know we used wd-40 and liquid wrench a lot before finding PB Blaster, and no one who ever worked here thought either one came close to PB. Can't speak for Kroil, and I would think the ATF-Acetone mix a disaster waiting to explode.

Biggest thing we found with PB when we discovered it back around '97 was that it would keep penetrating. Things we'd soak with the other two repeatedly never seemed to get any better after maybe a day. With PB if it wasn't easy, we'd spray again and let it sit overnight (when possible) and it was amazing.

 

[YanmarFever]

Wayne, we use pb blaster here, we have a can at every table.

Tha stuff is amazing

 

[jinman]

Seems like I remember when I was in the U.S. Navy that we used wintergreen oil. The mint smell was sickening. Anybody else ever hear of that?

I like PB Blaster, but I wouldn't spray any of these over an open flame.

 

[billbill1]

I use PB Blaster at home with good results. I can vouch for Kano Kroil, it's the best I have used of many different brands. I think you can only buy it from Kano Labs.

 

[Wayne County Hose]

Not enough info there. Were there a bunch of nuts and bolts assembled and thrown outside fir a couple years then tested? Did they put these products on the threads and assemble them, then measure the breaking force? If they did the latter, of course an ATF mix would work the best.

A can of PB Blaster lasts me over a year, probably closer to 3. So, I don't care if it's $20 a can. If it will help remove the stuck bolt that no other could, it's worth it.

 

[czechsonofagun]

Unfortunatelly this is all I know. Not sure how it was tested either.

 

[EddieWalker]

I've never tried Kano Kroil because I've never seen a can of it when I'm at the store. My favorite it 3in1 Penetrating oil. I've had fair results with PB Blaster have found 3in1 to be much more effective.

WD-40 is a pretty good lubricant but not something I'd use as a penetrating oil.

Speaking of lubricating sprays, does anybody have some recomendations that they really like?

Eddie

 

[DreaminGreen]

I puchased my Kano Kroil from "MidwayUSA" (shooting supply) on the web you can buy it by the gallon or smaller. I just visted ther site they still have it.

Here is a link MidwayUSA - Kano Kroil Penetrating Oil and Bore Cleaning Solvent 8 oz Liquid

 

[LMTC]

Eddie,
For lubricating sprays we buy cases of 1. chain lube, and 2. lithium spray grease. The chain lube is a little thinner, doesn't "stick" as well, but being more viscous will run into some cracks, etc. that the lithium grease won't. Spray lithium is most often used on the ball sockets on 3 pt. lift arms for us.

 

[RobS]

Speaking of lubricating sprays, does anybody have some recomendations that they really like?

Eddie

I was wondering that same thing the other day Eddie. The passenger door on my truck has gotten stiff. I shot it with silicone as I've heard so many bad things about WD40 as a lube but the silicone didn't seem to solve the problem. I may give it a shot of WD tonight. For spray lube, those are the only two things I've ever used.

I do use PB Blaster for the rusted stuff and am quite happy with it.

 

[frank_f15]

I was wondering that same thing the other day Eddie. The passenger door on my truck has gotten stiff. I shot it with silicone as I've heard so many bad things about WD40 as a lube but the silicone didn't seem to solve the problem. I may give it a shot of WD tonight. For spray lube, those are the only two things I've ever used.

I do use PB Blaster for the rusted stuff and am quite happy with it.

I also found that WD 40 is best for car doors

when i was working steam engineer, we used KROIL AND FOUND IT THE BEST. NEVER have tried PB THOUGH

 

[Podunkadunk]

WD-40 is a great water displacer and light lubricant, but it's "lasting" properties are a little lacking.

I like Break-Free (CLP) for everything else that requires metal to metal contact/rubbing/friction. We used it in the military for lubricating just about everything. It's a cleaner, protectant and lubricant all in one and I've never had a nut or bolt that couldn't be removed after a good dousing and the right wrench.

It's also the best thing going for guns. It was initially developed for gun usage, but the military found it was great for everything else as it has replaced several older Mil-L-xxxxx lubricants.

Here's an excerpt from Break Free's site:
Break-Free CLP Performance Gun Care Products meet the U.S. Military specifications for use on weapons and weapon systems. The U.S. Military, NATO, and over 30 militaries around the world choose to use this all-in-one cleaner, lubricant, and preservative to keep their weapons combat ready and dependable in battle under any conditions. Break-Free CLP passes over 14 U.S. Army and NATO performance tests that include baking to 150 degrees Fahrenheit and freezing to minus 40 degrees Fahrenheit, sea-water immersion tests, and intensive, extended firing tests.

 

[LMTC]

I was wondering that same thing the other day Eddie. The passenger door on my truck has gotten stiff. I shot it with silicone as I've heard so many bad things about WD40 as a lube but the silicone didn't seem to solve the problem. I may give it a shot of WD tonight. For spray lube, those are the only two things I've ever used.

I do use PB Blaster for the rusted stuff and am quite happy with it.

PB is a tremendous penetrant and rust-eater, but certainly is not a lubricant. I use the lithium spray grease on vehicle door hinges too. It stays on a good long time. I haven't sprayed it in a door lock yet, but I suspect it would work there too. The only place I use silicone spray anymore is on electronic stuff and plastic surfaces.

 

[reb]

WD-40 is a great water displacer and light lubricant, but it's "lasting" properties are a little lacking.

I like Break-Free (CLP) for everything else that requires metal to metal contact/rubbing/friction. We used it in the military for lubricating just about everything. It's a cleaner, protectant and lubricant all in one and I've never had a nut or bolt that couldn't be removed after a good dousing and the right wrench.

It's also the best thing going for guns. It was initially developed for gun usage, but the military found it was great for everything else as it has replaced several older Mil-L-xxxxx lubricants.

Here's an excerpt from Break Free's site:
Break-Free CLP Performance Gun Care Products meet the U.S. Military specifications for use on weapons and weapon systems. The U.S. Military, NATO, and over 30 militaries around the world choose to use this all-in-one cleaner, lubricant, and preservative to keep their weapons combat ready and dependable in battle under any conditions. Break-Free CLP passes over 14 U.S. Army and NATO performance tests that include baking to 150 degrees Fahrenheit and freezing to minus 40 degrees Fahrenheit, sea-water immersion tests, and intensive, extended firing tests.

Check this link:
militec
Apparently there have been problems with CLP in Iraq.

 

[Wayne County Hose]

Check this link:
militec
Apparently there have been problems with CLP in Iraq.

Apparently isn't the word. I have a buddy that was in Iraq a couple years ago. After we shot my AR, he wanted to clean it for me. Hey, whatever he wanted was fine with me. He didn't say anything about CLP, but he did tell me that they didn't use any lube in the sand box as it attracted too much dust and jammed up their weapons. I guess the sand there is more like dust than our sand. I'll have to ask him more about the lube.

 

[oscar80]

The sand were I was at over there was fine almost like talcum powder. It would get into all of our electronics and just coat it.

Dave

 

[czechsonofagun]

I was wondering that same thing the other day Eddie. The passenger door on my truck has gotten stiff. I shot it with silicone as I've heard so many bad things about WD40 as a lube but the silicone didn't seem to solve the problem. I may give it a shot of WD tonight. For spray lube, those are the only two things I've ever used.

I do use PB Blaster for the rusted stuff and am quite happy with it.

Rem Oil works for me, unless I have to go with something heavier.

 

[texasjohn]

I used WD40 for a penetrating oil until TBN educated me about PB Blaster. I now use PB for penetration... even purchased a gallon and spray can of it. I find it is much better for penetration than WD40. Never tried the other products.

 

[LarryD]

I had real problems with all the door locks at the embassy when I first arrived in Egypt. The Seabee before me just love to wash the mechanisims in WD-40and it really held the dust.

I eventually took every crash-bar and door lock through the parts washer and lubed them up with a teflon spray from CRC. It dries and does not attract dust.

I've got a can of Liquid Wrench lubricant in the shop right now that uses PTFE technology. The jury is still out on its' effectiveness, but it doesn't leave an oily film.