Photos of Third Function Valve Project

[Gordon Gould]

I wanted to install a new valve to control my grapple and get it off of the rear remotes so I can use them for TNT. I wanted the valve control to be near my FEL lever. Last Nov teg posted a very nice discription of a similar project he did. I stole alot of his ideas. THANKS teg. This is a link to his post

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...7948-instructions-add-extra-spools-l2800.html

I started by buying a single spool DA 8 gpm Prince valve fropm Surplus Center.
Prince # MB11B5C1 DA.
I built a mounting plate for the valve from a piece of 5 1/2" X 6" 1/4" plate.
I drilled and tapped 3 holes for 3 3/8" mounting studs. Jam nutted and welded them.
Drilled 3 5/16" holes to mount the valve, and one hole in the corner for a heavy sheet metal screw to attach to the orange cover. I am going to mount the valve and plate on the FEL linkage cover. Photos: Linkage Cover, Cover Removed, Base Plate.

 

[Gordon Gould]

I wanted to be able to remove the linkage cover when I was done in case I had to get in there. So I cut off the two rear mounting tabs and cut a chunk out of the top. I used the two rear cover mounting screw holes in the FEL bracket for 2 of the the 3/8" studs. The bottom cover screw is still used from under neath.
Photos: Cover Cuts.

 

[Gordon Gould]

I turned the handle housing on the valve around 180 degrees so that it was pointing downward. Mounted the valve on the base then put the assembly on the tractor. Two of the studs go into the rear cover holes, the third goes into a hole I drilled in the outside corner of the FEL bracket. Photos: Valve, Housing 180, Valve & Plate, On Tractor

 

[Gordon Gould]

I made a lever arm from a 3/4" X 1" bushing and a 18" length of 1/2" rod. I put an oblong hole in the bushing to allow side motion to the lever. This way it can move left and right to follow the FEL lever when I curl and dump. I bent the rod to match the angle of the FEL lever arm.

 

[Gordon Gould]

I put the whole thing together on the tractor. One note: In order to slide the orange cover under the valve mounting plate you have to remove the valve handle housing ( 4 cap screws ). Next I need to cut off the lever arm when I receive the knob I have on order from Missicks. Then I need to take it all apart for painting and reassemble using locking hardware. Then I get to do the plumbing and figure out the mystical maze of hydraulic couplings. That empty hole in the corner will have a 1/4" sheet metal screw down into the cover. Here is what it looks like so far.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Here is my hydraulics diagram. I am going to steal what I can from teg's parts list that he was nice enough to give us. It will be a while before I am done. I would like nice weather for the plumbing.

 

[teg]

Cool!!! One thing I wish I did before connecting everything is PAINT the valve... I need to update my post, just have to find some time.

Another thing I did was SHORTEN my kubota loader handle (vs. you making the new one longer) I always like getting on and off the tractor either side, this made it easier.

 

[/pine]

How do you like the 'Wolverine' series valves?
I have several of them.

 

[kennyd]

Nice job...But why post it here rather than in the Hydraulics forum? You should ask a Moderator to move it.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Nice job...But why post it here rather than in the Hydraulics forum? You should ask a Moderator to move it.

Thanks.
That makes sense but I have no clue how to contact a moderator
The info must be here somewhere but I haven't found it yet.
gg