FairfaxStu
Gold Member
Well, anyway you cut it, it will still be more reliable than something that does not work at all. If you look out there, you can find "high performance racing distributors" for a bit above $100.
-Stu
Picked up a 1970 GMC C3500 dump truck that needs some TLC
- Thread starter pclausen
- Start date
- Views: 63612
Well, anyway you cut it, it will still be more reliable than something that does not work at all. If you look out there, you can find "high performance racing distributors" for a bit above $100.
-Stu
Stimw
Elite Member
I bought a new Chevy Van in 1979, it had the HEI distributor in a 350 cuin. At 59,000 miles I really felt guilty because I had not changed the spark plugs! What the heck, it still ran great!
The old plugs didn't look much different that the new ones!!! And I was towing a 7000 lb boat with it!
The old plugs didn't look much different that the new ones!!! And I was towing a 7000 lb boat with it!
OP
pclausen
Veteran Member
Well, according to the text describing the unit, it comes with:
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LIFETIME WARRANTY, UNLIMITED MILEAGE!
THIS IS THE COMPLETE DISTRIBUTOR BODY, SHAFT, GEAR, 65K COIL, CAP, ROTOR BUTTON
THIS IS THE NEWEST VERSION ON THE MARKET. THIS UNIT HAS A PERFECTED MODULE SYSTEM VIRTUALLY ELIMINATING FAILURES, AS WELL AS THE NEW 50K COIL!! THIS COIL IS ESSENTIAL ON ANY MODIFIED ENGINE.
--- cut ---
I'll be hard pressed to put more than a few hundred miles on this dump truck each year, so I suspect it will do just fine.
Wondering the same thing. Would they be as well built as original? Are they Chinese made? I have had bad luck with Chinese window motors, etc.
OP
pclausen
Veteran Member
New HEI distributor came in today. Looks really nice!
Put it on and got the engine to fire on starter fluid right away, but my timing is off. I barely got it to idle and in the pic below you can see where the timing mark is for cyl 1:
The current position of the distributor is the only one where I can keep the engine idling and get out and shot the timing pistol. As soon as I turn it either clockwise or counterclockwise, it stalls. I tried starting with it as far as it will go before the ignition coil hits the firewall, and it wont start, and as far as it will go before the vacuum advance hits the firewall.
Perhaps I'm off one cog on the gear, but when I try to correct that, the distributer won't seat all the way.
Basic question, which direction should I turn the distributer to get the timing closer to the timing tab from its current position?
Put it on and got the engine to fire on starter fluid right away, but my timing is off. I barely got it to idle and in the pic below you can see where the timing mark is for cyl 1:
The current position of the distributor is the only one where I can keep the engine idling and get out and shot the timing pistol. As soon as I turn it either clockwise or counterclockwise, it stalls. I tried starting with it as far as it will go before the ignition coil hits the firewall, and it wont start, and as far as it will go before the vacuum advance hits the firewall.
Perhaps I'm off one cog on the gear, but when I try to correct that, the distributer won't seat all the way.
Basic question, which direction should I turn the distributer to get the timing closer to the timing tab from its current position?
It appears it's firing early, before it reaches the tab. To ****** the timing rotate the distrib in the same direction that the shaft rotates. Some HEI's can have firewall clearence probs on older non OEM vehicles. You do have the plug wires installed correct, right?
OP
pclausen
Veteran Member
Yep, the wires were all moved over one at a time into the same position. So being that the distributor shaft is on the left side of the shaft (standing in front of the engine), and the cam is turning clockwise, that would mean (I think) that the distributor is also turning clockwise, so I should turn it further clockwise. I'll give that a try in the morning. starting liquid.
OP
pclausen
Veteran Member
Yep, checking timing with vacuum hose disconnected.
Loosing ground when turning is a good possibility I think given the paper gasket I'm using . I suppose the new distro gear could be keyed differently relative to the oil pump drive and that explains why it won't go in in the position that the original one was in. It was getting late and dark, so I was kinda rushing a little too, which never helps.
Loosing ground when turning is a good possibility I think given the paper gasket I'm using . I suppose the new distro gear could be keyed differently relative to the oil pump drive and that explains why it won't go in in the position that the original one was in. It was getting late and dark, so I was kinda rushing a little too, which never helps.
Gale Hawkins
Super Member
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- 1948 Allis Chambers Model B 1976 265 MF / 1983 JD 310B Backhoe / 1966 Ford 3000 Diesel / 1980 3600 Diesel
in the old days dad always did it by sound but I'm not sure how. the guy that set my 454 in the motorhome he did it by sound.
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- Cat D3, Deere 110 TLB, Kubota BX23 and L3800 and RTV900 with restored 1948 Deere M, 1949 Farmall Cub, 1953 Ford Jubliee and 1957 Ford 740 Row Crop, Craftsman Mower, Deere 350C Dozer 50 assorted vehicles from 1905 to 2006
If you can... double check the wires are in the right order.
I did a 400 and it had me baffled all morning and then I found the problem... plug wires were in the wrong sequence.
I did a 400 and it had me baffled all morning and then I found the problem... plug wires were in the wrong sequence.