Pics of my new (to me) 1700 and some questions

   / Pics of my new (to me) 1700 and some questions #11  
I think you got a smokin deal. I would definitely put some type of muffler on it.
Bill
 
   / Pics of my new (to me) 1700 and some questions #12  
That is a great deal, especially for 4wd.
 
   / Pics of my new (to me) 1700 and some questions #13  
Thanks JC, I'll do a search on our threads and start putting a shopping list together!

I just saw one of your question that I missed. I used 1/4" Clear PE tubing for fuel site glass in the last 6 yrs with no issue. I had some float ball in there that finally got soaked in with Diesel. A small hollow SS ball would be great but have not come across a hollow one yet.

JC,

DSC06979_zpsa5a3d659.jpg


Mine was completely black and could not see anything same as yours.
 
   / Pics of my new (to me) 1700 and some questions
  • Thread Starter
#14  
I think you got a smokin deal. I would definitely put some type of muffler on it.
Bill
I most certainly will make getting a muffler a top priority. It it way loud right now with that straight pipe. I was going for a generic tsc muffler, but looking at how the current pipe was welded to the elbow, I think I'll bite the bullet and pay the ~$100 for an aftermarket oem fit complete muffler.

Amazing thing is that I stumpled across this deal from my load John Deere dealer of all places. And this was after looking all over searchtempted (cl) for days for something decent under $3k...
 
   / Pics of my new (to me) 1700 and some questions #15  
Thanks Ron. Your advice is always very insightful. So if I was to just drain the liquid (assuming there is any), and not do anything else at this point, would that pose a problem?
I also curious about these sway links:
I always hated those on my dad's 1910, and I just love this style on my Deere:
Would it be possible to adopt the solid style shown above to the 1700?

Pete,
Don't dump it where you want grass to grow:)
I imagine you can get some slider tubes or make them to replace the sway chains. You might check TSC on the net to see if they have something.
I have tubes just like you have on the Deere on my CNH. The first thing I did to them was put a little chain around the tubes and hooked the snap pin handles to them so if I forget to snap the top I won't loose the pins.

My old Ford has sliders for sway control too. Ford used square tubing for one end and a solid steel square shaft with adjustment
holes in it for the other.
The first thing I would do with that F-1700 of yours is get some lower link arms with ends that slide in/out and latch for equipment hook up. Then get or make sway control tubes for them and you'll have a nice 3 pt.
Be sure to measure the length of the 3 pt system on that little tractor in regard to any PTO shaft driven implements.
Your PTO shafts may have to be shortened if you don't modify or change the lower links that are on there now.
I don't know anything about the 1700, just saying check it.
Ron
 
   / Pics of my new (to me) 1700 and some questions
  • Thread Starter
#16  
That is a great deal, especially for 4wd.
Thanks! I have gotten into trouble with braking down a hill and reversing out of trouble with 2wd enough times that I felt 4wd was a must. I got a lot of steep hills!
 
   / Pics of my new (to me) 1700 and some questions
  • Thread Starter
#17  
I used 1/4" Clear PE tubing
Thanks!

Trying to figure out the Advance Autoparts sku numbers shuffle on the radiator hoses now. :)
 
   / Pics of my new (to me) 1700 and some questions
  • Thread Starter
#18  
I pulled the fuel tank to get a look at the wiring behind the dash. Got the temp gauge working. Tuned out the ground was not connected (red arrow). I just realized that my oil pressure light is not working at all. I did find an unconnected blue wire (green arrow). Related to the oil pressure light not working? I tried to pop the oil pressure light out of the tach housing, but I don't want to force the rubber grommet. Am I supposed to be able to pull it out?

ford1700-30.jpg


I checked all the fuses, and they are good. That said, I did notice that 3 of the fuses have nothing connected to them on one side or the other, as seen in the pic below:

ford1700-31.jpg


Moving on from the electrical gremlins, I pulled the air cleaner element off. Am I supposed to be able to remove the filter element from the canister to give it a good cleaning? It is stuck in there pretty good.

ford1700-32.jpg


Finally, I noticed at all 4 bolts (in red oval) were loose as the entire cover was moving when I turned the steering wheel. After getting those snug down, I noticed I still had play in the shaft (red arrow). Not a lot, but some. Should I worry about this?

ford1700-34.jpg


That's it for now. Off to tsc, advance and wally world for parts!
 
   / Pics of my new (to me) 1700 and some questions #19  
Pete that's a super deal. I couldn't help but notice there is no snow in your photos. Did all that from your house building thread melt already?
 
   / Pics of my new (to me) 1700 and some questions #20  
Your fuse block is basicly in line fuses. There is no power there. You should have a wire on each side of each fuse for it to be functional.
Bill
 

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