Pics of my new (to me) 1700 and some questions

[JC-jetro]

Pete,
here we go on some of your questions.



I pulled the fuel tank to get a look at the wiring behind the dash. Got the temp gauge working. Tuned out the ground was not connected (red arrow). I just realized that my oil pressure light is not working at all. I did find an unconnected blue wire (green arrow). Related to the oil pressure light not working? I tried to pop the oil pressure light out of the tach housing, but I don't want to force the rubber grommet. Am I supposed to be able to pull it out?


yes, you can. you might have a bad light. I changed mine once. Do a continuity check between the sender wire and the ground and it should read zero ohms. might use any ole 12 volt automotive light and couple of alligator clip to check.

I checked all the fuses, and they are good. That said, I did notice that 3 of the fuses have nothing connected to them on one side or the other, as seen in the pic below:

I thought one was pare. on mine the bottom one was not connected on one side. did not dig further as all was working, they might have had that for a option for the later model, not sure 100%.

Moving on from the electrical gremlins, I pulled the air cleaner element off. Am I supposed to be able to remove the filter element from the canister to give it a good cleaning? It is stuck in there pretty good.

Yep clean it all with diesel fuel , use an old tooth brush, do use compressed air generously. I cleaned the bowl out and diesel was what i used as cleaner/solvent.
Finally, I noticed at all 4 bolts (in red oval) were loose as the entire cover was moving when I turned the steering wheel. After getting those snug down, I noticed I still had play in the shaft (red arrow). Not a lot, but some. Should I worry about this?

Open the square head nut and make sure you have ford 134 in it or top it off. A bit of play is fine and I would not dork with it much. can tighten it a bit by loosening the set screw bolt some and using a flat head screwdriver to dial it in some to take out some of the play

That's it for now. Off to tsc, advance and wally world for parts

Woohoo , you're on your way to bring your rig up to spec. Give it a bit of TLC and she'll give you back all she got. 1700 is one sweet little tractor, easy on gas, easy to maintain and built very robustly:thumbsup:


JC,

 

[pacerron]

Pete,
I was at the barn a while ago and snapped a couple pics pertaining to the discussion last night about the 3pt.
One is the sway bar assembly off the old 89 Ford. It is off the tractor now because I have a big old backhoe with a heavy under frame in place of the 3pt. mounted.
Looks like you could make or buy something like that to easily replace the chain sway controls on your F-1700.
The other shot is just of the jack chain I added to the sway bar pins on my New Holland after loosing a couple of them early on because I forgot
to flip the handle down. Simple but it works.
Ron

 

[pclausen]

Pete that's a super deal. I couldn't help but notice there is no snow in your photos. Did all that from your house building thread melt already?

Yep, snow is all gone already. Temps in the mid 60 today. Crazy weather...

 

[pclausen]

Your fuse block is basicly in line fuses. There is no power there. You should have a wire on each side of each fuse for it to be functional.
Bill

Thanks Bill, that's what I figured.

 

[pclausen]

yes, you can. you might have a bad light. I changed mine once. Do a continuity check between the sender wire and the ground and it should read zero ohms. might use any ole 12 volt automotive light and couple of alligator clip to check.

Now that the temps are in the mid 60s as opposed to right around freezing this morning, the light popped right out. It was good. I traced one wire to the oil pressure switch and the other to the fuse panel, with no 12V ignition source on the other side of the fuse. This was the bottom fuse. So I moved the wire up to the vacant 5A fuse, which did have a 12V ignition based source, and now it works!

Yep clean it all with diesel fuel , use an old tooth brush, do use compressed air generously.

Ok, I'm stumped at how to remove the screen/filter element from the canister.

Is it supposed to separate along the red arrows? Or does the outer part separate at the yellow arrow?

Open the square head nut and make sure you have ford 134 in it or top it off. A bit of play is fine and I would not dork with it much. can tighten it a bit by loosening the set screw bolt some and using a flat head screwdriver to dial it in some to take out some of the play

Thanks, I'll check those items. For now, I got that area cleaned up nicely with the fuel tank off.

I scored a muffler at tsc and was able to cut off the old pipe and secure the muffler to what was left. I also picked up a weather cap. I wonder if that slight forward tilt is stock, or is the elbow is twisted a little? Not a biggie I suppose. This is not a show tractor.

And I got some fuel line at Advance and replaced the supply lines. The return line I got is too thick walled for the oem clamps to go back on, so I put the old (brittle) ones back on.

And I got new oils for the engine and transmission.

Was unable to find an engine oil filter, so I'll pick up the real thing from the New Holland dealer tomorrow.

Can't wait to get this thing fired back up once I the the air filter apart and cleaned. Then after getting the transmission good and warn, drain it, clean the filter and refill.

 

[pclausen]

Pete,
I was at the barn a while ago and snapped a couple pics pertaining to the discussion last night about the 3pt.
One is the sway bar assembly off the old 89 Ford. It is off the tractor now because I have a big old backhoe with a heavy under frame in place of the 3pt. mounted.
Looks like you could make or buy something like that to easily replace the chain sway controls on your F-1700.
The other shot is just of the jack chain I added to the sway bar pins on my New Holland after loosing a couple of them early on because I forgot
to flip the handle down. Simple but it works.
Ron

Thanks Ron! I'll do some searching to see what I can come up with.

 

[pclausen]

Ok, I don't think the air filter (part 7) comes apart any more than what I already have.

So I'll just rinse it out the best I can and reassemble.

Since I replaced the supply fuel lines, I'll likely need to bleed the air out. I just each of the 2 bleed screws on the fuel filter, and then the one on the inlet to the injector pump until I get no air right, and then start it up?

Also, what oil does the front axle take?

Thanks!

 

[JC-jetro]

Now that the temps are in the mid 60s as opposed to right around freezing this morning, the light popped right out. It was good. I traced one wire to the oil pressure switch and the other to the fuse panel, with no 12V ignition source on the other side of the fuse. This was the bottom fuse. So I moved the wire up to the vacant 5A fuse, which did have a 12V ignition based source, and now it works!


Great.

Ok, I'm stumped at how to remove the screen/filter element from the canister.

Is it supposed to separate along the red arrows? Or does the outer part separate at the yellow arrow?

No it is all one assembly, clean and blow air thru it. the screen is for big chunky stuff. Oil goes theru the bottom oil pan and clean air percolate thu the oil and contaminates gets trapped in the oil. do our some clean engine oil in the cup and put all together.


Thanks, I'll check those items. For now, I got that area cleaned up nicely with the fuel tank off.



I scored a muffler at tsc and was able to cut off the old pipe and secure the muffler to what was left. I also picked up a weather cap. I wonder if that slight forward tilt is stock, or is the elbow is twisted a little? Not a biggie I suppose. This is not a show tractor.

Mine is perfect straight up and down. Like yours better, it's a bit hillbillishh , just the way I like it.

And I got some fuel line at Advance and replaced the supply lines. The return line I got is too thick walled for the oem clamps to go back on, so I put the old (brittle) ones back on.

Use a screw driver or something to increase the ID just enough for a tight fit. It'll work just the same.

And I got new oils for the engine and transmission.

Nice, I use exactly the same.

Was unable to find an engine oil filter, so I'll pick up the real thing from the New Holland dealer tomorrow.
two options below, I like Wix better.

Can't wait to get this thing fired back up once I the the air filter apart and cleaned. Then after getting the transmission good and warn, drain it, clean the filter and refill

Cool.:thumbsup:


JC,

 

[JC-jetro]

I don't think the air filter (part 7) comes apart any more than what I already have.

Yes . it does not come apart. it is one assembly.
So I'll just rinse it out the best I can and reassemble.

Since I replaced the supply fuel lines, I'll likely need to bleed the air out. I just each of the 2 bleed screws on the fuel filter, and then the one on the inlet to the injector pump until I get no air right, and then start it up?

Yes. I myself on two occasion only cracked a bit inlet to the injector just to get the bubbles out and that was good enough. /COLOR]

Also, what oil does the front axle take?

Same as what you got for hyd system. Ford 134.



JC,

 

[pclausen]

Got the air filter all cleaned out and put back together. Tractor won't start....

I bleeded some more, 2 screws on top of the fuel filter and banjo bolt where the supply line enters the injection pump. Did it 3 times and cranked it over about 15 times after each bleeding session. Nothing. I then loosened the nuts on the high pressure lines coming out of the injection pump towards the injectors. I get no fuel at all here when cranking the engine like I was expecting.

What the heck could have gone wrong?