Pics of my new (to me) 1700 and some questions

[pclausen]

Lol, well, I'm on my 3rd Makers Mark.

It's not going to be a show tractor, but I'm a sucker for perfection, so I'm going to fix the cosmetic and mechanical stuff as close to perfect as I can without spending a fortune. I might have $600 in the new rear rims and tires, and maybe another $200 into misc maintenance items like oils and other fluids, and $100 in paint, sand, etc. Thinking about a seat for $60 and a steering wheel for $40. So $1000 on top of the $2800 I paid, and I will have an awesome little tractor that will look and work almost like brand new for $3,800. Dad's 1910 had 1300 hours on it and was showing no signs of slowing down. And this this is a spring chick at 380 hours.

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

Looking verry good. Where did you get the paint you used. I have had a hard time finding the right shade of blue for my 1900.
Bill

 

[JC-jetro]

Great Job Pete,

Looking better all the time. I hope to start building on our acreage/farm this year. Once I mover there, I'll have plenty of time to give my F-1700 extreme makeover while using the Kubota. Shiniest part of my tractor is the steering arm that I bent and ended up straightening it out and put some shiny Ford Blue on it. Even up to $4500-5000 and you still got a good deal.

JC,

PS. I'm taking notes on how you're doing it:thumbsup:

 

[pclausen]

I'm using the "Ford Grey" spray can paints from tsc.

 

[pclausen]

Got the insides of the fenders painted tonight. Here's the 1st one. They had a lot of rust in them. I didn't want to strip away any more metal to get the rust out than I had to.

1st one done

2nd one done

I'll probably hang them from a string and go over them one more time once they dry, to hit any thin spots that might not have gotten a good coat on the 1st go round.

New rear tires should be here Thursday, so wheels and fenders should be back on this weekend.

Still haven't been able to source some clear tubing locally for the "fuel gauge". Will probably end up ordering online.

 

[pacerron]

Still haven't been able to source some clear tubing locally for the "fuel gauge". Will probably end up ordering online.

My New Holland has clear tubing as a sight gauge for the big tank behind the seat. It is sort of a light blue color, probably to protect from UV damage. The red diesel fuel shows up well through it.
Maybe you can get what you want from a New Holland dealer.

 

[pclausen]

I didn't have much luck when I stopped by there before, but maybe if provide them with a part number, I'll get somewhere instead of just asking for 1/4" clear typing that is rated for fuel.

 

[pacerron]

I didn't have much luck when I stopped by there before, but maybe if provide them with a part number, I'll get somewhere instead of just asking for 1/4" clear typing that is rated for fuel.

The New Holland may be bigger than 1/4" ID. However, if you take a piece of your old tubing with you, it may be possible to get tubing that is fuel rated that the outside dia. of your present line will fit into, either snug or slightly loose. Then just cut off a couple pieces of the old tubing that is in decent shape and use it as a sleeve inside the new. I imagine your tubing is clamped on, so you have some leeway.
Ron

 

[JC-jetro]

I didn't have much luck when I stopped by there before, but maybe if provide them with a part number, I'll get somewhere instead of just asking for 1/4" clear typing that is rated for fuel.

Pete,

Polyethylene is impervious to Diesel fuel, Like shown on Post#13 in this thread. I have used PEX for underground diesel distribution system for many years. Most gas station use PEX for diesel and gas for their underground tanks with addition interstitial space (double wall) and monitoring system to go with that. The little 1/4" PEX tubing I used on my 1700 is more than 6 years old.

JC,

 

[pclausen]

Thanks guys. I'll keep looking for the fuel line.

I got the fenders put back on

And I got the new rear tires back, mounted on the new rims. That left the hubs to be painted since they now stood out like a sore thumb.

Starting to get there

Next up was the front hubs since the rear now looked so nice.

That pretty much just leaves the hood and a few other misc items. Hood is going to be a pain as it is very rusted in the lower front, but I think there will still be enough good metal there once I sand blast it.