Pics of rear weights

[EdGooding]

If you use a back/scraper blade, you can make removable weights that mount over the top of the blade. This guy shows you how to do it here: https://www.ntractorclub.com/howtos/pdfs/Make-Weights-for-Rear-Blades.pdf

 

[Shawn T. W.]

The problem I found with a rear blade was traction ... While I have a very old HEAVY (396.4 Lbs!) Cat 1/2 rear blade ... I found I could easily loose TRACTION once it got full ... Rear tires filled, 4X4, rear axle locked, as far as I could go, three tires spinning ... Notice I added gravel to the bucket too ...

Added the 70 Lb steel wheel weights to each side, plus another 200 Lbs of steel weight lifting plates to the BH frame, since have added another 75 Lbs ...

Now it has TRACTION! I stopped, and was able to start again, no spinning!

Once you drop a rear blade or box blade on the ground, you no longer have the advantage of that weight on the tractor for TRACTION!

 

[kenlip]

Weighs about 850kg

Most of the time I have a vice in the receiver, used for sharpening the chainsaws

 

[Dadah]

If I need rear weight on my JD 3025e I hook my box scraper to the 3 point hitch. Plenty of weight to counter what the bucket or forks can pick up. The rear tires also have ballast fluid in them.

 

[Shawn T. W.]

I'd recommend re-considering such a light attachment on the back for rear BALLAST.

Think about if you were to buy your tractor as a TLB package ... How much does your BH weigh? As it's difficult to add more weight, that's about where I want to start to relieve the front axle of over weight.

The rear filled tires don't help in that regard, just helps traction ...

Here is a screenshot from that video ...

BTW ... Massey Ferguson BH2720 Backhoe on my GC 1725 MB weighs 651.0 Lbs

 

[inchman]

Howdy everyone trying to get ideas on making a rear weight for my 1705 MF tractor. I would love to see some!!

Here is what I did. Note, the featured this in an FarmShow issue a few years back. All the ballast boxes I looked at had major flaws. On some the 3-pt hitch has to be raised when they’re installed, which puts constant strain on all hitch components and also raises the tractor’s center of gravity. Others are so large they’ll scrape the ground as you drive up an incline, or they’re in the way when you have to navigate tight spaces.
I started with a 2-ft. long, 16-in. dia.. 3/4-in. thick sewer pipe. Then welded the pipe onto a homemade, 3-pt. mounted bracket with an expanded metal floor, as well as a ball hitch on back and 3 welded-on, homemade jacks. Each jack consists of a pipe that rides inside a larger 1 1/2-in. dia. pipe. Both pipes have a series of holes in them, and the jack’s height can be easily adjusted by changing the position of a pin.
The sewer pipe weighs just 240 lbs. empty, but the tractor’s rear wheels are filled with ballast so I only needed a little more weight. If I need more weight, I can drop rocks or other heavy objects inside the pipe. By lowering the 3-pt. all the way, the ballast doesn’t interfere with the pto. To remove the ballast I just raise the 3-pt. and then drop the jacks to the ground.
I stores rakes and shovels in 2 vertical pipes mounted next to the 3-pt.’s top link. I leave the ball hitch and a toolbox inside the pipe all the time. There’s room for a 5-gal bucket inside the pipe to carry smaller items.

 

[Tailbent]

Put some concrete blocks in a box blade.

 

[Rvrrat14]

I have been using a box blade and have not seen any issues with light rear-end when lifting. That said, I don’t think I’ve been carrying max load in the FEL. I have used a grapple with zero ballast on brush with no issues, but take it slow and don’t go far. I move trailers around with hitch on FEL with zero ballast and no problems; move in yard only. Usually box blade is on the rear when working; loader or grapple.

Reading all these ballast threads got me to thinking; I don’t know exactly how much my box blade weighs. I was estimating approx. 600. It is a heavy, older implement. I took it to a certified scale yesterday and it weighs 800 lbs.

My manual ‘recommends’ 1455lbs rear ballast. That seems very high to me. I’ve read where most use 1000 - 1200. I have some railroad railing that I am considering adding as weight on the box blade. I could see where I could get 1000-1100 pretty easy.

I have been getting by with the box blade and how I normally use the tractor. I actually lifted the box blade onto the trailer to weigh, with zero ballast and had no issues either.

I believe Tim’s video shows that more is gained by weight on the 3PH overall. That’s my direction.

 

[bearthebruce]

Ballast Box

We wanted a compact ballast box because so much of our work is in dealing with trees and brush down in the woods and trails that we have created. We purchased the box and then filled it with rocks from the property, packing them densely to get as many in as possible. Our guesstimated weight is 700-800lbs. To date, only trees of the largest diameters have caused issues with lifting. When Missy starts to lift her rear leg, we stop, hack a junk off the tree, re-postition and remove the tree.

The ballast box is on the tractor almost full time... certainly whenever the grapple is on. If I know I am lifting more, then my go to is to use the brush hog. With its length and its weight, it gives great counter balance.

 

[WinterDeere]

Probably on the 3 point lift

I took a standard 750 lb. ballast box, sunk four 3" PVC tubes into it to hold shovels and rakes before filling it with concrete, and added some weight-hanging bars to it so that I could add suitcase weights up to 1500 lb. I also left some space in the top tray to add chains, not so much for weight although they have that bonus effect, but because I often need chains.




I also welded some mounting plates on the back drilled and tapped to mount a hitch receiver, since I tow a lot of trailers with the box mounted.