Pin Won't Budge

kevin37b · May 4, 2016

That looks like a new machine ? Why ? Are you sure the grease zerk is not bound up in a machined groove on the pin ?

Steave · May 4, 2016

If all else fails you might have to get a reciprocating saw between the cylinder T and the swing arm housing and saw through the pin on both sides of the cylinder. "This will get the cylinder out of the way for further inspection. After repairs are made just insert a spacer to take up any slack the sawing might have caused. If the pin is bent out of shape as suggested earlier it might just fall out in 3 pieces.

tcartwri · May 4, 2016

I think you'll eventually find that the hammer blows mushroomed the pin by a few thousands, and that's where it's going to sit.

dragoneggs · May 4, 2016

tcartwri said:
I think you'll eventually find that the hammer blows mushroomed the pin by a few thousands, and that's where it's going to sit.

Yes this could be very true unfortunately. Before banging harder, try creating a freeze plug. I think I would try to drill out and freeze and then try a press vs. banging.

Kyle_in_Tex · May 4, 2016

I had to drill mine out on my Bushhog PHD. I put a grease zert on the replacement.

City Farmer · May 5, 2016

Can you remove the other cylinder pin? If you can, it would be easy enough to push the pin out in an arbor press. Worst case, you could pull the cyl. rod and put lots of heat to it. If you decide to remove the cyl rod, take the cap off while it's still on the tractor. It's not a bad job, I've had to do it more than once myself.

dragoneggs · May 6, 2016

City Farmer said:
Can you remove the other cylinder pin? If you can, it would be easy enough to push the pin out in an arbor press. Worst case, you could pull the cyl. rod and put lots of heat to it. If you decide to remove the cyl rod, take the cap off while it's still on the tractor. It's not a bad job, I've had to do it more than once myself.

Not sure I understand the heat? Freezing a pin will shrink it.

brown40 · May 6, 2016

Candle wax can sometimes do it when all else fails. Heat the area and it will hopefully draw in the melted wax.
For sure unless I've got the replacement for something I avoid whacking and peening things out and ruining things altogether.
Is all the force from the cylinder relieved? Can't tell from the picture, but that must have been done before removing others?
If a burr is all thats holding it up and you can get a pipe wrench on it some light "twist tapping" can usually find an exit for a pin. If its not accessible from the back side or is firmly rusted into place. I've seen heat and cold work to break apart bound fasteners, but usually heat is all thats available... I think the ideal is to get the male side cold and shrunk, and the female hot and expanded, but heats a lot easier to come by and apply and the goal is achieving mechanical separation of the parts/breaking corrosion/adhesion by expanding (or shrinking) the connection.

City Farmer · May 6, 2016

dragoneggs said:
Not sure I understand the heat? Freezing a pin will shrink it.

The heat is just another option. He's been working at it for a few days. Freezing the ends of the pin "might" help but I doubt it. Unless he has carbide, he'll never get through that pin. HSS or cobalt bits won't do it. The easiest way is to just pop the cly. pin and press it out. I'm pretty sure he's taking it to the machine shop to get it sleeved for a new pin so I'd just let them deal with it the way they want.

rustyshakelford · May 6, 2016

Not to be stating the obvious but are you absolutely sure that it's not in a bind, has any weight on it or you missed a snap ring? I've experienced all those and one fixed, came right out. That machine looks brand new and I can't imagine it has any rust in there that would seize it up

Brett