Pipe Wrench only option?

   / Pipe Wrench only option? #11  
I have a roll of shower door sweep that works well between wrench jaws to prevent marks. Tried pieces of inner tube and various other rubber and plastice but sweep grips best.
 
   / Pipe Wrench only option? #12  
I had a 4 ft long pipe wrench attempting to take the lift cylinders on my dozer apart.

** Warning, Thread Drift **

Couple years ago, the kingpin on my JCB needed replaced. Easier said than done after 25+ years...All polite efforts failed.

(friend of mine), we welded a nut to the top of the Kingpin. attached pipe wrench to it. Attached chain to the pipe. Attached the OTHER end of the chain.... to my neighbor's next door 30+ HP Deere with hydro. All we wanted to do was get it to rotate & break the bond.

Kingpin won that round too.... The tractor ripped the welded nut off the Kingpin (duh). Was a tough booger but my friend finally fabricated a 'triangle' that fit over the king pin and held UNDER the cross member, a 30 ton bottle jack. Had tremendous pressure/tension on the thing and when the Kingpin broke free, the entire machine (I think about 15,000 lbs?) shook. The Kingpin moved about 1/4" BUT, it moved so now we knew it was just a matter of time.

** End Thread Drift **
 
   / Pipe Wrench only option? #13  
+1 on a 4' pipe wrench, with cheater bar. The seals are on there tight. My past attempts to use something like duck tape didn't reduce the apprentice marks much, but as many cylinders don't have holes for pin wrenches, there isn't really an alternative.

All the best,

Peter
 
   / Pipe Wrench only option? #14  
Did anyone check with Terry on the way the factory intended to R/R the nut? Or is it a sacrificial part?
 
   / Pipe Wrench only option?
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Thanks for the comments. The cap is indeed smooth...and is made from Aluminum. Given the force required to remove them, I wonder if the cap could even be warped on removal. I have no idea as to what tool PT uses to tighten the cap at the factory. I also find it amusing that PT makes its own hydraulic cylinders.

I think one of the main problems "may" be the use of different materials for the cap and cylinder (which is steel). As most know, this can create corrosion that almost welds the two parts together. I have a 48" pipe wrench so I guess we'll find out.
 
   / Pipe Wrench only option?
  • Thread Starter
#16  
I guess I should also mention...I'm replacing the seals because the bucket leaks downs VERY fast with a load. So fast that I'm reluctant to use the forks to pick up something heavy. I was always taught this type of leak down is caused by problems in the control valve, not cylinder seals as one might first think. However, Terry said it was the cylinder seals.
 
   / Pipe Wrench only option? #17  
An oil filter wrench isn’t nearly beefy enough for the toque typically needed for a cylinder gland. And they still have metal teeth that would scar the cylinder.
Agree I bought a 4 foot pipe wrench for mine
I cut some PVC pipe and taped it to the rod for the inevitable Oh Sh moment when it finally breaks loose and that's with heat and bangihg on the cylinder end first
 
   / Pipe Wrench only option? #18  
I had to use a pipe wrench on my PT cylinders. And yes, my FEL would leak rapidly when the o-rings etc leaked.

Ken
 
   / Pipe Wrench only option? #19  
You can use a chain pipe wrench. It grabs all the way around. Put some heat on it too, the seals will handle maybe 600 degrees. I did all the cylinders when I worked at new Holland. Best tool to do them cylinders was an old PROTO pipe wrench. It was thinner than a RIDGID, and it grabbed really well. We kept a cabinet full of many colors of spray paint. They were also Kubota dealers. So I'd just use a pipe wrench, touch up my marks with spray paint. I have some chain pipe wrenches maybe 5 foot long. Lots of times we just fab a wrench on large cylinders. Like the lift cylinders on our log loader. They probably have 5" rods. I always loosen the gland while cylinder is still fastened, something to hold it that way.
 
   / Pipe Wrench only option? #20  
Thanks for the comments. The cap is indeed smooth...and is made from Aluminum. Given the force required to remove them, I wonder if the cap could even be warped on removal. I have no idea as to what tool PT uses to tighten the cap at the factory. I also find it amusing that PT makes its own hydraulic cylinders.

I think one of the main problems "may" be the use of different materials for the cap and cylinder (which is steel). As most know, this can create corrosion that almost welds the two parts together. I have a 48" pipe wrench so I guess we'll find out.
And different rates of expansion and contraction between aluminum and steel.
 
 
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