PJ Trailers

[Rock Crawler]

I know that I may be a freak in this respect, but I have a 25' long 9,990 titled gross (2 x 6K lb axles) flatbed and would not want to go shorter. Actually, if I were replacing mine I would go to 30' long and stay at the 9,990 titled gross. I've never ran into a time that I thought to myself... "I just cant haul this load because my trailer is simply to long." But I tried to get 2 Wrangler JK 2 doors on it to haul to Colorado and found that it is just not long enough. I can not get 2 demo derby cars on it until after they are smashed. Going to do driveway jobs with the Kubota with the backhoe, loader, box and rear grader blade it is a REALLY tight fit! 5 more feet would be nice.

My truck is a 2017 Ram 1500 Hemi with the Max Tow package that has the 3.92 gears, bigger trans cooler, engine oil cooler, integrated trailer brake control and class 5 hitch. It is rated for 9,460 lbs. max trailer weight. I do run a 14,000 max weight distribution hitch to push the weight to the front wheels as well.

 

[swnoel]

Don't you have to deduct the weight of the trailer in order to get the actual capacity? A 7K trailer does not have a 7K load capacity!!! Am I wrong??

 

[TractorNH]

Don't you have to deduct the weight of the trailer in order to get the actual capacity? A 7K trailer does not have a 7K load capacity!!! Am I wrong??

Correct. A 7K trailer means it is 7K Gross weight. Gross weight is maximum weight of trailer plus cargo.

 

[Turbys_1700]

For your current needs a 7K trailer is fine. Just double check your overall length of the tractor with the back hoe attached.

 

[dnw64]

According to my manual, I need a weight distributing hitch for 5k+ Gross Trailer Weight. I know lots people are not... ?

 

[BLSXJ]

it sounds like this is a one time offer. If i were in your shoes.... I'd buy the "most" trailer i could afford.

I have a collection of trailers, and have rebuilt most of them. I'd recommend a 10K trailer over the 7k because generally its a small price difference and with it you get bigger rims and tires. bigger tires means a stronger tire (more capacity) and lower bearing rpm's. oh and the wheel bearings are bigger too.

If your the type of guy that takes care of stuff and keeps it a long time, consider galvanized or aluminum wheels. the white spoke steel wheels rust.

I'd love a power tilt trailer, but a gravity tilt doesn't seem worth the cost increase.

flat deck no beaver tail is the way to go, unless you want/need to transport cars.

it sounds like you have the length figured out.

maybe look into a adjustable coupler in case you change tow vehicles

if you get ramps, I highly suggest removable ramps, that slide in the back ( not the side )

 

[dnw64]

I'd love a power tilt trailer, but a gravity tilt doesn't seem worth the cost increase.

flat deck no beaver tail is the way to go, unless you want/need to transport cars.

I have considered a beaver tail with slide-in ramps as well. I would like to be able to haul cars (including my very low Porsche). In fact I've been looking at a "car hauler" type trailer. Why are you suggesting No Beaver Tail? I'm concerned even with loading my tractor with the BH on it, on a flat-deck trailer, because of clearance issues. I assume a tilt-bed is the best for loading clearance?

Also am considering a 10k trailer, mostly so I could haul a full-size car/truck.

 

[George2615]

Since you can get it for wholesale I'd go bigger. Think of other uses you may have for a higher capacity and longer trailer. By your own numbers in post #3 a 7K trailer would allow you a 4300 lb. load capacity. If you ever need to haul a full size P/U you couldn't do it legally as most P/U's weigh more than that.


I have a 22' PJ TF 14K full tilt with power up and power down. When I bought I only needed a 10K trailer but no local dealers had any 10 or 12K's in stock. I found one dealer who gave me a great deal on a leftover 14K so I took it.

 

[ultrarunner]

MY Deere 110 TLB was sold as a package deal and came with a PJ trailer... nothing bad to say about the PJ

It is 18' with two 6k axles and plated for 9,990 lbs due to State Commercial Regs

The 110 fits perfect and the trailer is a joy to use with the tilt up ramps... which I didn't like the looks of at first but sure makes loading easy...

 

[zing]

it sounds like this is a one time offer. If i were in your shoes.... I'd buy the "most" trailer i could afford.

I have a collection of trailers, and have rebuilt most of them. I'd recommend a 10K trailer over the 7k because generally its a small price difference and with it you get bigger rims and tires. bigger tires means a stronger tire (more capacity) and lower bearing rpm's. oh and the wheel bearings are bigger too.

If your the type of guy that takes care of stuff and keeps it a long time, consider galvanized or aluminum wheels. the white spoke steel wheels rust.

I'd love a power tilt trailer, but a gravity tilt doesn't seem worth the cost increase.

flat deck no beaver tail is the way to go, unless you want/need to transport cars.

it sounds like you have the length figured out.

maybe look into a adjustable coupler in case you change tow vehicles

if you get ramps, I highly suggest removable ramps, that slide in the back ( not the side )

I agree with pretty much all of this, but will add some points....
- It seldom is beneficial to spec something too close to capacity, so if you have a wholesale way to get your trailer, go for bigger. Eventual resale will be better for the larger capacity trailer, so it won't be lost money.
- You said "A 7k GVWR trailer at 20' (referenced in OP) is around 2700#", but was that the weight for a tilt deck? Tilt decks are heavier because you basically have to duplicate the frame for the deck area, and that extra iron will reduce your gross carrying capacity.
- 10K also sounds more realistic to me. Dry weight numbers are seldom accurate for tractors or trailers when it comes to real world hauling. Add in a full tank of diesel, a couple gas cans, some tools, straps and chains/binders, planks, a toolbox on the front of the trailer to store your extra chains and straps, tire blocks, a spare tire, the tongue jack, pry bars, picks and shovels, whatever other crap you will eventually toss on there to get the job done, and you have eaten up enough extra that you are always sweating it because you are always running near capacity. If you are able to weigh it ahead of time, make sure you throw on a buttload of extra crap when you do it to account for all the extras that come with trailering a load and doing a job.
- Tilts decks are not for everyone. Some folks like them, but if you have a long/front heavy load and a short/light trailer, or you have to load some implements/gear up front it may tilt back before the back tires are on and then you are jamming wooden blocks under the tilt and sledgehammering them out once the tractor is on. Unless you get a power tilt, which means an even more significant increase in weight for this trailer and reduction in carrying capacity. It is good for loading clearance though, like you say you are looking for. I use my friend's 14K gravity tilt for my tractor and my own utility trailer+planks for my side-by-side, and both have pros and cons. Give some careful thought to what will actually work best for you.