Plans

   / Plans #11  
Here are a couple of pictures of two scrapers I have. The first one is the old roll over type. Handy if you don't have anything else.., LOL... And if where you are moving the dirt, don't care that it get torn up from dragging it along. Of course, these we built for tractors pre-3 point hitch...

The second is my Overland Scraper. I believe they were built in California. Designed to be used with N series Fords, and Fergies.. They were more than enough of a load for them..!! I pulled this one with my Fammall M with 3 pt. I had to add an 80 lb. wheel weight to the side frame, to keep the front end on the ground, and that was taking a shallow cut in this shaley clay around here.

I believe the capacity is 1 yd. struck, and 1 1/2 yd. heaped..

I put my subsoiler on my Super C to loosen the soil @ approx. 12" spacings, 12" to 18" deep.

Drawbacks to the Overland are a cable attached to the top link to raise and lower the apron. I've been going to convert to a hyd. cylinder, but got moved to the back burner... And dumping is a half rollover style dump. You have to catch the cutting edge in the ground the first trip, to dump. After the first one, it will catch in the dirt you dumped. It has a pull rope to release to dump. It also has a grading position, where the bowl is at about a 30degree angle... Nice for roughing down the dirt. Pretty sweet for grading the lane too.

An ejection type dump would be ideal, over the rollover type dump. At least you can dump, and spread at the height of the bowl above the ground.

Can't wait to get my 180 MF hooked to it...!!
 

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   / Plans
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Thanks Lostunderhood and DJ54. My original idea was to use my FEL bucket for the bowl. I decided to see if I could make fixed sides and bottom and then use a hydraulic cylinder to push the back of the bowl forward to unload. That is similar to the way the big boys do it.

The attached pic is what I managed to get done yesterday. That's my shop foreman inspecting progress so far.
 

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   / Plans #13  
You're welcome...!! If I get a chance tomorrow, and remember... I'll take a picture of the cutting edge, and get the degree of angle on it.. I had to replace the front half of the bottom of the bowl on mine. Simply wore thin enough to roll it under when I caught a rock. The bowl is made of 3/16".. So it has moved some dirt in it's lifetime.!!

For some reason, a 35 degree angle on the cutting edge comes to mind, but I'll check for sure. There are gussets behind it to back it up. And a standard grader blade is used for the replaceable cutting edge.

I do hope you are using the JD in the background. They do pull fairly hard. The worst part of it, is the leverage pulling down on the 3 pt. arms that far back. I'll take a picture of the hitch for mine, which actually puts it further ahead on the 3 pt. arms, but still plenty of draft.

My uncle borrowed it, and pulled it with his MF 35. Hooked a rock, and next thing he knew, he was looking up at Jesus.. It was far enough up in the air, he caught the clutch pedal with his left hand...

Drove straight to the barn, and hooked it to his MF 285... Your loader should help with front end weight...

I reckon' that's why you see some models with trucks under the front. But takes a good sized tractor to get traction, without the downdraft.
 
   / Plans #15  
I don't have a specific dirt moving project right now. If you follow the thread that I linked to you will see there was a lot of excitement and desire to build/buy a pull type soil mover. It seems to me that interest has declined as evidenced by the lack of replies to my post. But, thank you for you two guys' replies.

I have an idea that would allow a person to remove his Fel bucket and use it as part of the pull/type pan scraper very easily. If I was adept at using GoogleSketchup I would make a drawing of it, but unfortunately I can't.

I think these "mini" soil movers are very expensive to purchase. My idea would make it a whole lot more affordable for a lot of people to buy or build. Thanks

Sprocket, I don't think interest has declined as, much as despite the neatness, most don't have enough planned use to justify buying & many more don't have the resources to build one. If you search TBN for "dirt pan" there are several pictures of simple yet effective designs. I have a use for one but have yet had time to start building. I am going to start with a frame like yours & use a 275 gallon oil barrel, obviously reinforced & cutting edge added, for the bucket. It will dump over the front & use the cutting edge to spread the load. Figure the floor to tilt about 15 degrees back to retain load, pivot to slightly down in the front to fill , & tilt to nearly 90 degrees to dump. The front pivot will carry the force of digging & depth control determined by lowering 3pt hitch height. Raising 3pt to carry & dump position with hydraulics to tilt bucket. May put a stationary panel in the front to retain load in the travel position as I'll mostly haul gravel for my roads & atv trails.
If you look at most of the designs you'll see that the bucket has a long bottom (cutting edge to back), i.e. has more depth than height. Skidsteer buckets are frequently more deep than high, seems to fill better. Have saved pics of the simpler designs. Keep in mind my only criteria is function not appearance. MikeD74T

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/85610-earth-mover-my-neighbor-built-7.html post #61

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/110557-pan-whats-worth.html

Both of these dump over the back thus the rear position of the pivot. On the rusty one note the depth limiting brackets on the sides near the front.
 
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   / Plans #16  
Mike thanks for posting those 2 links to the back dumpers. The second one looked like one of the last Henry scraper designs that AC used on the light industrial tractoractors and some ag ones. They also made a chariot type where the wheels were on the outside of the bowl and they back dumped, I know an oldtime operator told me how good they were for backfilling bridges and such back them up wit ha TD18 to the edge and dump. Im looking to build one like the little homebuilt one in the first link. I have 4 header cylinders off 2 old combines that have ling shafts on them. Heres another chariot type pan made in Argentina called a Grosspal
 

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   / Plans #17  
Here are a few more pictures of the old Overland I have. Maybe it will give you some ideas to work with.

The cutting edge is at a 35 degree angle. There is a brace so to speak, to back it up. It goes from near the lower edge, and is welded to the bottom of the bowl. "U" shaped cutouts at the bolts allow access to replacing bolts on the cutting edge. I earlier stated gussets, but must have been thinking of something else...

I think I do like the cable operated apron. Again, I need to update mine by adding a cylinder to pull the cable. It does allow the apron to float when loading. It will let rocks, or larger clumps to go in, instead of dragging it along. Also if there happens to be a rock at the cutting edge, when your finished loading, it may save the apron, or linkage from getting damaged when applying down pressure to close it. But that's just my opinion. The old Terex TS-14's ( green weenie's we called them) we used to run had hydraulic/cable aprons. They would float up and down quite a bit when loading. But we loaded some pretty gnarley stuff. Plus the fact we had a D-9 pushing.. It was going in the bowl, or else..!!

Lastly is a picture of the hitch. Just a simple loop on the front of the scraper to hook into. And something similar to a pintle hitch, on the tractor end. In fact I use a cheapy pintle hitch on my Super C Farmall when using it to pull it.

Now the cool part would be to set the scraper up with a push block. And an extra tractor with a ripper, and push blade..!! Then what you really need, is someone operating the pusher, that knows how to ease up on you...!!
 

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   / Plans
  • Thread Starter
#18  
Thanks for all the info.
Sure is a lot of ways to load and dump dirt.
I am about half done building mine. I am down to finding a suitable cylinder to power the ejector before I can go any further.
Mine is not going to be pretty, but hopefully functional.
I welded my cutting edge on tipped only slightly down. I don't expect to be able to take over an inch or two depth of cut. It is 44" wide. I think I can pull it with my smaller tractor.
Thanks again. BTW, my desktop is full of links to all the pictures you guys have posted here.
 

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