Plasma Questions

Hilbilly · Feb 19, 2015

I picked up the Powermax 30xp today and got a chance to try it tonight. I only made a few short cuts on 1/4" and 3/8" and I can't believe the difference between the 30 and 30xp. This is definitely the right machine for me. It cuts way faster than the 30 and does a really nice job. Happy days.:cool2: I sure wish I got it before my grapple build. It would have been sooooooo much nicer having it. Now I'm finished the fab work on the grapple and have nothing to use the plasma on. I guess I better come up with another attachment build idea.

SA that Lincoln welder looks like something that would be dropped out of plane over enemy territory.

dragoneggs · Feb 20, 2015

Thanks for the report. I have my eyes on the 30XP and the 45. The 30XP I think is plenty for me but I like the idea of having compatibility with a CNC table that from what I understand, needs to be the 45.

Rustyiron · Feb 20, 2015

Hilbilly said:
I picked up the Powermax 30xp today and got a chance to try it tonight. I only made a few short cuts on 1/4" and 3/8" and I can't believe the difference between the 30 and 30xp. This is definitely the right machine for me. It cuts way faster than the 30 and does a really nice job. Happy days.:cool2: I sure wish I got it before my grapple build. It would have been sooooooo much nicer having it. Now I'm finished the fab work on the grapple and have nothing to use the plasma on. I guess I better come up with another attachment build idea.
SA that Lincoln welder looks like something that would be dropped out of plane over enemy territory.

Congrats. I think you made a good decision with your brand choice. I have a 15+ y.o Hypertherm and I'm thinking about getting the new (updated) torch that is available for it. How do you put a price on being able to get part's 10-15 year old welders, or in my case, plas. cutter. I just did not want to turn your thread into another "Ford vs. Chevy" argument in my earlier post here. Use good dry air like they say! I have an inline dessicant thingy that's ok. SA has a nice homebrew air dryer and I'm sure he'd be happy to show you his IIRC "trashcan full of ice":thumbsup:

Hilbilly · Feb 20, 2015

I watched a video on Youtube where a guy used some vertical steel piping mounted to a wall just downstream of his compressor discharge and that worked well for removing moisture, for him. Since I don't do a lot of cutting, painting or sandblasting I think that might work for me and will likely give it try.

As far as brand choice goes, I have no regrets for spending the extra money to get one I have a LOT of confidence in vs spending less and wondering if/when my new machine will break down or I can't get parts.

I did cut a small plate to add some protection for the hydraulic cylinder on my grapple and used the XP to do it. What a pleasure it was to use that instead of the O/A. Nice clean cut, fast and easy. I love this thing. While this may not get a lot of use, one thing I know for sure is that I will not hesitate to cut things that I would not do with the O/A. As a matter of fact I will look for reasons to use it.

Shield Arc · Feb 20, 2015

Here are some pictures of the air dryer I built. Couple years ago I upgraded to a refrigerated unit, and a new compressor. Believe it or not, the garbage can full of water drops the temperature of the air more so than the refrigerated unit!

Rustyiron · Feb 20, 2015

S.A, on your garbage can full of water you just come out of the comp. tank through the coil to the plas? Is room temp (say 80*) OK? You posted this for me a while ago and I was out of "roundtuit's":laughing: That's so dang simple I have no excuses not to put one together, especially if you don't need to worry about fresh cold water. (or do you).

edit; oops, I didn't look at all of your pics.

eddieirvine · Feb 20, 2015

not sure if you posted this or not? but what do you set your oxygen pressure to when you cut? turning it up higher helps but speed is the answer and it is hard to do, I did pretty good when I was doing it but sense retired from where I worked for 35 years but there were some guys that were better than I was and it was because they did a lot of it, but try to run higher pressure on oxygen to blow the molted steal away better.

crackerjack222 · Feb 20, 2015

SA, when you had the garbage can cooler, it looks like you just ran the cooled air into the receiver tank and let the moisture drain from there. Or, did I miss a drain from the copper coil in the garbage can?

Hilbilly · Feb 20, 2015

crackerjack222 said:
SA, when you had the garbage can cooler, it looks like you just ran the cooled air into the receiver tank and let the moisture drain from there. Or, did I miss a drain from the copper coil in the garbage can?

I was wondering the same thing. I like cheap and simple vs expensive and complicated.

Shield Arc · Feb 21, 2015

The air comes out of the compressor pump, through the copper coils. Back into the compressor's tank. Inside the shop, and through the black pipe after cooler hanging on the wall.
Yes there is a drain in the bottom on the copper coils, Bulk head fitting through the wall of the plastic garbage can. When I'm done for the day that drain is the first one opened. Then the compressor tank, then all the ball valves at the bottom of the after cooler.

Here in the North West just water works fine. Other regions you may have to drop a bag of ice in the garbage can. I also put some of that chemical they use in water beds in the water.