PLEASE LOOK AT THE PICTURES AND PLEASE HELP

duke7595 · Oct 7, 2012

Hello,
I bought this tractor in the past week, and posted it on this site " HOW MUCH IS IT WORTH" since then I finally
took delivery. I bought the tractor by pictures only, and was unaware of the set up that operates the loader.

The tractor itself runs excellent and everything works as it should, also I have bought from this seller in the
past and was pleased, so I was not to worried about the running condition of this one..
But he did not mention this terrible set up to operate the loader.

I'm not knowledgeable in the hydraulics department and I need some advice on how to change this mess
in to something that is workable, and mounted where it should be

If you guys would look at the pictures and advise me what I need to do, I sure would appreciate it.

Sincerely,
Duke

J_J · Oct 7, 2012

To me, it looks like a two spool valve and if the hoses are going to the front loader hyd cyl's, and the loader works, what else do you want to do?

Do you have good pressure and volume?

DT86 · Oct 7, 2012

J_J said:
To me, it looks like a two spool valve and if the hoses are going to the front loader hyd cyl's, and the loader works, what else do you want to do?

I think he means that it is a awkward set up as far as operating it. Reaching down to control the loader that is.

Is there a way that you can mount the valve to the fender or fab some type of mount?

leonz · Oct 7, 2012

duke7595 said:
View attachment 283488 View attachment 283494 View attachment 283495 View attachment 283491 View attachment 283496 View attachment 283497 View attachment 283498 View attachment 283492

Hello,
I bought this tractor in the past week, and posted it on this site " HOW MUCH IS IT WORTH" since then I finally
took delivery. I bought the tractor by pictures only, and was unaware of the set up that operates the loader.

The tractor itself runs excellent and everything works as it should, also I have bought from this seller in the
past and was pleased, so I was not to worried about the running condition of this one..
But he did not mention this terrible set up to operate the loader.

I'm not knowledgeable in the hydraulics department and I need some advice on how to change this mess
in to something that is workable, and mounted where it should be

If you guys would look at the pictures and advise me what I need to do, I sure would appreciate it.

Sincerely,
Duke

No need to change anything, you have lot of steel hydraulic piping which is the best kind you will be spending as much or more of thtractors value changing to hose. The steel piping is stronger than hopse to begin with and if you insist on changing it your asking for a world of hurt because the rubber 2 wire braid hose will blow out and as you are sitting on top of it a whipping hose having access to your .............. is not something you want anyway- these machines have been working like this for years so no worries.

If you have low pressure you may need to take it to a dealer that handles this brand.

leonz · Oct 7, 2012

The valve is bolted to the top of the transmission and dumps the oil passing through
it through the bottom of the valve back to the transmission and pump sump.

The valve body has an O ring sealing the return line matiing surfaces to prevent oil from leaking
out and your wanting to change it will cost you much more to fix it as it was designed to
simplify the plumbing this way.

sweettractors · Oct 7, 2012

Once you get use to it, it will be very handy and effective. In addition save $500 for not buying another joystick valve and plumbing it in. Ken Sweet

duke7595 · Oct 7, 2012

J_J,

Yes I do have good pressure and volume. My problem is location, and the function of these levers that hit other parts and impedes the operation. Plus
I'm used to a control, mounted on the right side and at the right height,
Is there a way to mount a control valve by extending the hoses ?

duke7595 · Oct 7, 2012

DT86,

You hit the nail on the head that's exactly what I want to do, but don't have the knowledge in hydraulics to pull it off. If you or someone can give some ideas
they sure would be appreciated, thank you,
Duke

Sawdustsmb · Oct 7, 2012

There is a metal block - $100 or so from New Holland that bolts under your current hyd. control. It has 2 external ports that will give you power beyond (your current valves and 3 pt. hitch will still work) then you can mount a standard loader control - 2 handles or a joystick - anywhere you like. Not all that difficult once you think it through. I'm no hydraulic whiz and I'm about to do it to my ford 4000 to give me more remotes for a snow plow and 4 way back blade.

Bob

duke7595 · Oct 7, 2012

Sawdustsmb ,

Thank you Bob, At least that's an option I can look into. I was thinking I could just extend the hoses to a control valve
and mount it where it belongs, but I guess it don't work that way.

Do you have a contact web site, and the name or part number of this metal block you speak of ?

Thanks,
Dule

Sawdustsmb · Oct 7, 2012

What model tractor is it?

DT86 · Oct 7, 2012

As long as you can remount the existing valve in a location that allows full movement of the levers there is no reason why simply buying longer hoses and remounting it wont work.

J_J · Oct 7, 2012

I am thinking that that valve matches up with built in ports, a pressure port and a return port. . If you remove it, you would have to use adapters to feed hyd to another valve.

If you want to use a normal joystick valve,and keep the old valve, then you would take one of the hoses and run them to the new valve and lock the current valve open on that spool only. This will supply fluid to the new valve.

A new valve would also give you float and regen.

DT86 · Oct 7, 2012

J_J said:
I am thinking that that valve matches up with built in ports, a pressure port and a return port. . If you remove it, you would have to use adapters to feed hyd to another valve.

You're right. Not sure what I was thinking. That does complicate things now doesn't it.

Sawdustsmb · Oct 7, 2012

The plate is called a manifold, hyd and is part # 9613790. Cost is $184.12 from MESSICK'S. There web site is Messicks.com. I would call them to make sure it will fit your tractor. I bought mine 3 - 4 years ago. Of course the price has gone up! . You can then get a loader valve from Surplus center or Northern Tool. It will need a power beyond plug. You will need 3 hoses - 2 to go from the loader valve to the manifold and one to go from the loader valve to the fill plug behind the seat. 4 hydraulic couplers should do it. All this of course if it is a Ford and the manifold will fit your model. You Cannot relocate the current valve - there are nine hydraulic holes in it plus the 4 bolts that hold it on. If you take it off you would need the special cover that covers them all up and it would be of no use to you.

Bob

duke7595 · Oct 7, 2012

Sawdustsmb
It is a 3000 Ford diesel

duke7595 · Oct 7, 2012

J_J,

Thank you this seem the easiest and the cheapest way to go, I truly appreciate it,
I bought the tractor w/ loader and a 6 foot bush hog, and after some final haggling I payed
$4000.00 dollars for everything. It's a diesel w/ p/s and runs and drive real good, of course
it needs a seat and some cosmetic work but I believe the price is ok which gives me
room to fix the control lever,

sincerely,
Duke

duke7595 · Oct 7, 2012

J_J said:
I am thinking that that valve matches up with built in ports, a pressure port and a return port. . If you remove it, you would have to use adapters to feed hyd to another valve.

If you want to use a normal joystick valve,and keep the old valve, then you would take one of the hoses and run them to the new valve and lock the current valve open on that spool only. This will supply fluid to the new valve

A new valve would also give you float and regen.

The hose you speak of, is it one that is in the current valve body? And do I plug that hole ?
or do need 2 hoses to the new valve joy stick ? and return that hose to the old valve body?

Sawdustsmb · Oct 7, 2012

I ran my snow plow using the control valve that way for years. I think you will need an open center loader valve. One other thought one reason for the manifold - at least on a 4000 and a 7600 - when you lock one of those levers open your 3 point hitch won't work so you will need to keep locking and unlocking when using say a back blade and a loader. On the 7600 It had a dedent so it would stay locked but everytime a loader cylinder went to the end of its travel it would kick off. But it is cheaper and easier. Good Luck - have fun In response to your last post - 2 hoses from the new joy stick to the old valve body. Or just plug them into the couplers in the back.

Bob