There's obviously some real confusion about "Cold saws" and "Dry cut saws". They are absolutely not the same thing!
Cold saws turn at very low rpm, usually in the 50 -100 rpm range depending on the blade diameter. Cold saws usually use High Speed Steel blades (same steel as a drill bit, no carbide) and have constant flow of coolant/oil. Cold saws are primarily used in production operations and are very expensive with prices that end with 000. They can cut very accurately. The price and need for coolant makes them a bit impractical for the average two or three cuts a week in the home shop.
Dry cut saws turn much faster at about 1,800 rpm. They use carbide tipped blades and no coolant. They make more accurate cuts than the abrasive saws. They can be had in the $400- $500 range, not cheap, but far less expensive than the cold saw. Dry cut saws spray very sharp and very hot chips pretty much all around. While the chips are hot, the cut piece will be cool. Also, no smoke. Plan on a really good cleanup after you use it. That's pretty much the only downside for casual use but it is a real issue when you just want to make a cut or two. You'll find these chips embedded in your shoes, machinery casters and everywhere else. Did I say the chips are sharp? Dry cut blade life isn't bad but the blades are expensive. You can dull one completely in 4 hours of serious use. Keep in mind though, 4 hours of cutting with a dry cut processes a massive pile of steel! I've found that there are real differences in brands of blades. The Milwaukee costs the most and cuts the cleanest but the teeth are pretty fragile. The Northern Tool is cheaper but leaves a burr. I haven't found any good blades in the $50 range but they might be out there. The Milwaukee lists for $179 and about $125 is the best price I've found.
To the OP's question, the abrasive saws are cheap and work fine for a home shop and almost every Fabrication shop has one. They turn about 3,500 rpm, or about twice as fast as a dry cut saw, and create huge amounts of abrasive dust that permeates everything, so make sure you cover any other tools, welders, etc. Also, know that the abrasive saw spits out massive quantities of sparks, smoke and heat! They will create fires and they are not fun to be around for very long! The piece you just cut will be very hot and will have a large burr so use caution and heavy gloves. Of the abrasive saws, the Makita is probably the best built internally although it's a bit pricey. The Dewalt has a really lousy table. Milwaukee makes two versions. One is inexpensive and you get an inexpensive saw. The other is pretty pricey but a much better saw. The Ridgid is priced lower than most of the other saws and has a lifetime warranty. It has the best table and although several others look like they should work better they don't! The Ridgid is a good cutting saw and would be my recommendation as the best value and since you can take it back to Home Depot if it breaks. No experience with the Porter-Cable or Ryobi.
Interestingly, cheap abrasive blades cut faster than expensive blades. Cheap blades wear quickly so there's new abrasive against the work all the time and they cut fast. Long lasting blades like Dewalts are hard and tend to glaze over and cut very slowly. The Ridgid blade is the best compromise but I like the speed (and price) of the really cheap blades. BTW, if a blade glazes and won't cut, you can touch it with a diamond grinding wheel dresser to break the glaze.
Plan on serious safety stuff with a dry cut or abrasive. Safety glasses AND a full face shield are mandatory. You won't need hearing protection unless you plan to listen to anything in the next 50 years. Wear long welding gloves and your welding jacket. Make sure there are no paper towels, etc. around if you're using an abrasive saw.
Bottom Line: For the home shop, a well set up swivel head, mitering, horizontal bandsaw is really good for most things.