Please recommend a good chop saw

   / Please recommend a good chop saw #21  
I have an old B&D 14" chop saw. By old I mean over 25 years old now. Still works everytime but you don't use a light duty cord with it. 15 amp draw means it has to run on a 20 amp circuit or by itself.
 
   / Please recommend a good chop saw #22  
When I was selling tools, The Contractors all asked for the Makita Chop Saw. They abused them and they held up. Im sure Dewalt, Milwaukee and others amke a good unit too. The wheels need to be considered too. Soft Fast cutting short life wheels cut straighter than hard long life wheels because you dont have to lean on them to cut. It's a Trade off..
 
   / Please recommend a good chop saw #23  
I don't have a dry cut saw yet but from what I read the blades last if you use the saw correctly. If you push too hard and you see sparks coming off the blade then you've most likely killed the blade. They can be sharpened but usually don't last if you've over heated the blade. I've also heard by several people that the blade will last more than long enough to cover the cost of the number of abrasive blades you would have used if you let the saw and blade do the work.
 
   / Please recommend a good chop saw #24  
The other advantage a band saw has is hydraulic downfeed to control rate of cut. Let gravity do the work of leaning into the metal instead of you. A lot less tiring that way.
 
   / Please recommend a good chop saw #25  
At risk of slight sidetrack - has anyone any recommendations on the abrasive wheels themselves - both makes and grades.

I seem to be hitting a problem with the supplied blades where it stops grinding - I have to remove the wheel, run it lightly over a wirebrush and refit - then it works again for a while. I have tried different makes (Faithfull, Bosch) but all behave same, making me wonder if the steel is the issue - one particular bar I have is particularly fast at taking cutter out.

TIA

J
 
   / Please recommend a good chop saw #26  
I've the old "D" handle Dewalt abrasive chopsaw for about 5 yrs. I haven't cut to much big stuff and the blades are whatever Habor Freight sells. I would but Dewalt again. bjr
 
   / Please recommend a good chop saw #27  
At risk of slight sidetrack - has anyone any recommendations on the abrasive wheels themselves - both makes and grades.

I seem to be hitting a problem with the supplied blades where it stops grinding - I have to remove the wheel, run it lightly over a wirebrush and refit - then it works again for a while. I have tried different makes (Faithfull, Bosch) but all behave same, making me wonder if the steel is the issue - one particular bar I have is particularly fast at taking cutter out.

TIA

J

For abrasive wheels i like Walter brand.

If the moneys not there or i cant find walter, i usually use dewalt wheels.
 
   / Please recommend a good chop saw #28  
I have now used all 3 type saws

I bought a Evolution Rage 3 and it works great :thumbsup:

No more big burrs and heat problems that you get with abrasive saws
Not to mention constant blade replacement and the occasional exploding blade,the dust and sparks :(

No more having to clean up the mess from soluble oil / water that runs every where when cutting long pieces and having to wipe the pieces down and drain them...I don't want to talk about the cost of blades for one
Not to mention the cost of the machine it's self :confused2: :laughing:

No more crooked cuts from the band saw

And true they have quirks like you want to cut on the edge not on the flat but that is true of most all saws ;)

And the Rage 3 will do most all materials by changing the blade and compound miter cuts

They also make a chop saw version and a skill saw for doing sheet steel :thumbsup:

Look them up and watch the demos then think on it awhile :thumbsup:
 
   / Please recommend a good chop saw #29  
There's obviously some real confusion about "Cold saws" and "Dry cut saws". They are absolutely not the same thing!

Cold saws turn at very low rpm, usually in the 50 -100 rpm range depending on the blade diameter. Cold saws usually use High Speed Steel blades (same steel as a drill bit, no carbide) and have constant flow of coolant/oil. Cold saws are primarily used in production operations and are very expensive with prices that end with 000. They can cut very accurately. The price and need for coolant makes them a bit impractical for the average two or three cuts a week in the home shop.

Dry cut saws turn much faster at about 1,800 rpm. They use carbide tipped blades and no coolant. They make more accurate cuts than the abrasive saws. They can be had in the $400- $500 range, not cheap, but far less expensive than the cold saw. Dry cut saws spray very sharp and very hot chips pretty much all around. While the chips are hot, the cut piece will be cool. Also, no smoke. Plan on a really good cleanup after you use it. That's pretty much the only downside for casual use but it is a real issue when you just want to make a cut or two. You'll find these chips embedded in your shoes, machinery casters and everywhere else. Did I say the chips are sharp? Dry cut blade life isn't bad but the blades are expensive. You can dull one completely in 4 hours of serious use. Keep in mind though, 4 hours of cutting with a dry cut processes a massive pile of steel! I've found that there are real differences in brands of blades. The Milwaukee costs the most and cuts the cleanest but the teeth are pretty fragile. The Northern Tool is cheaper but leaves a burr. I haven't found any good blades in the $50 range but they might be out there. The Milwaukee lists for $179 and about $125 is the best price I've found.

To the OP's question, the abrasive saws are cheap and work fine for a home shop and almost every Fabrication shop has one. They turn about 3,500 rpm, or about twice as fast as a dry cut saw, and create huge amounts of abrasive dust that permeates everything, so make sure you cover any other tools, welders, etc. Also, know that the abrasive saw spits out massive quantities of sparks, smoke and heat! They will create fires and they are not fun to be around for very long! The piece you just cut will be very hot and will have a large burr so use caution and heavy gloves. Of the abrasive saws, the Makita is probably the best built internally although it's a bit pricey. The Dewalt has a really lousy table. Milwaukee makes two versions. One is inexpensive and you get an inexpensive saw. The other is pretty pricey but a much better saw. The Ridgid is priced lower than most of the other saws and has a lifetime warranty. It has the best table and although several others look like they should work better they don't! The Ridgid is a good cutting saw and would be my recommendation as the best value and since you can take it back to Home Depot if it breaks. No experience with the Porter-Cable or Ryobi.

Interestingly, cheap abrasive blades cut faster than expensive blades. Cheap blades wear quickly so there's new abrasive against the work all the time and they cut fast. Long lasting blades like Dewalts are hard and tend to glaze over and cut very slowly. The Ridgid blade is the best compromise but I like the speed (and price) of the really cheap blades. BTW, if a blade glazes and won't cut, you can touch it with a diamond grinding wheel dresser to break the glaze.

Plan on serious safety stuff with a dry cut or abrasive. Safety glasses AND a full face shield are mandatory. You won't need hearing protection unless you plan to listen to anything in the next 50 years. Wear long welding gloves and your welding jacket. Make sure there are no paper towels, etc. around if you're using an abrasive saw.

Bottom Line: For the home shop, a well set up swivel head, mitering, horizontal bandsaw is really good for most things.
 
   / Please recommend a good chop saw #30  
Makita makes a good chop saw as well as Sears but I am in the process of buying one from Ace hard ware it seems to be made very well and has a very good material vice on it as well the price they want for it is around $160 but it looks like it is worth it.
 

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