Plow vs scraper blade for driveway maintenance

[Baby Grand]

Threepoint's observation that a 96 inch blade may be too much for your tractor in your hilly conditions is worth considering. I think what he means is that the amount of material that you can drag is enough to overcome the traction available to your tractor, causing your wheels to spin. There's also a good chance that the width of the blade drives the length of the frame longer so that it can be rotated 180 degrees without hitting the rear tires. Because the blade's pivot is mounted farther aft of the rear axle, it will have more ability to steer the tractor. The increased blade length also creates a longer lever to amplify loads at the blade tip. This becomes very apparent on a slippery surface with the blade turned at a high angle, moving lots of material to the side. The front tires loose grip and steering becomes very iffy. Something to think about.

 

[Threepoint]

Threepoint's observation that a 96 inch blade may be too much for your tractor in your hilly conditions is worth considering. I think what he means is that the amount of material that you can drag is enough to overcome the traction available to your tractor, causing your wheels to spin. There's also a good chance that the width of the blade drives the length of the frame longer so that it can be rotated 180 degrees without hitting the rear tires. Because the blade's pivot is mounted farther aft of the rear axle, it will have more ability to steer the tractor. The increased blade length also creates a longer lever to amplify loads at the blade tip. This becomes very apparent on a slippery surface with the blade turned at a high angle, moving lots of material to the side. The front tires loose grip and steering becomes very iffy. Something to think about.

Yep, exactly. It's not the weight of the blade alone, nor the horsepower of your tractor that concerns me. Your tractor's 3pt system can lift several times that weight, no problem at all. And you have plenty of hp. It's the weight of the tractor relative to the (1) distance of the blade from the center of mass of the tractor (that distance being the lever arm), and (2) the rotational force that a 96" blade will produce once it picks up a load of material. With the blade square to the tractor, I think you'd lose traction so quickly you'd be frustrated trying to get much done. With it angled, I think it would scoot your rear end sideways, as Baby Grand says, steer the tractor. Your driveway is steep, so trying to work uphill would accentuate those forces. Like I say, you could cut that blade down if you find it's too long and have access to a torch or plasma cutter. If Kubota specs 72" for a rear blade with the L3430, I don't think I'd exceed 84".

 

[Komrade]

I picked up a 3-way 7foot Ford tractor blade today.

Something like this.., only 7 ft. will post pic tomorrow.

It's a little rusty, but all surface rust. Doubt that blade will ever need replacement, especially once I recondition it to Kubota colors. "They don't make them like this anymore"

BTW, is there a good way to paint something "kubota" colors? (not my top priority right now)

 

[Baby Grand]

Nice looking blade - I see it offsets, which will come in handy for your driveway work.
I bought Valspar Kubota orange & primer via Amazon. This was based on advice from other TBN DIYers posting their positive experiences. Not cheap, and I haven't had a chance to try it out yet, so I can't give you an endorsement, yet.

 

[Komrade]

There are a few options on amazon as far as "Kubota Orange" goes.

I guess I'll just search the forums.. Thanks.

Some pics



Not sure the "offset" was ever used. In fact I struggle to understand how it works, the bolt inside is rather short, and probably would have to be sawed off.

 

[Komrade]

With the blade square to the tractor, I think you'd lose traction so quickly you'd be frustrated trying to get much done. With it angled, I think it would scoot your rear end sideways, as Baby Grand says, steer the tractor. Your driveway is steep, so trying to work uphill would accentuate those forces.

BTW. I thought about it. And I don't see why i would be doing uphill anything on my driveway. I have 20+% grades, and I drive up in reverse. So most of the work would have to be done moving forward, and flipping the tilt for each side. Guess I need to figure out how to get that offset to work..

Speaking of tilt. What's the benefit of using blade tilt mechanism vs 3-point hitch tilting mechanism?

 

[bcp]

Three point hitch tilt will let you do small tilt adjustments. Most blade tilt positions are large increments.

Bruce

 

[crazyal]

Rain and gravity will move your gravel down your driveway. Dragging it back up to the top will help conserve it. You could use your loader and bring it up in bucket loads.

 

[Baby Grand]

It looks like the blade offsets in increments equal to the distance between the ribs on the blade. Notice the holes in the bottom of those ribs? I believe they are where you would reattach the lower ends of the stays that control the attack angle of the cutting edge. Looks like it would be a pain to change on a frequent basis, but could still be useful if you need the blade offset to one side for a long time.

I ordered Valspar (4432-24-4PK) Kubota Orange Tractor and Implement, which is the "old Kubota" color. I have 2 older machines that are going to need some TLC in the near future. The "new Kubota" color is Valspar (5339-27-6PK) New Kubota Orange Tractor and Implement.

 

[Threepoint]

Komrade, looks like a well-made piece of equipment. You've got some surface rust to deal with, for sure, before the paint goes on. I say never pass up an opportunity to justify a new tool. If you don't already have one, here's a pretty good little sand blaster that's served me well for years: 40 lb. Pressurized Abrasive Blaster A 25% coupon puts it under $83.