plow

[harley152]

Just gained the use of a ferguson #13818 type 14A 2 bottom plow thats been rusting for 30+ years---a little heat and grease and the (1) coulter works, but can't seem to get a consistent roll-over of the sod. It seems as if the back bottom is set too high relative to the front one--I can get the front to roll-over consistantly but the back is hit or miss and if I get mostly cosistant rollover with the back, the front is too deep and tends to plug up and do nothing---have a 45 hp massey and am pulling out hair, any imput appreciated.


Jerry

 

[klrobert]

I'm sure you have already tried this, but did you try to adjust the length of the toplink? Also, you might try to change the side to side level of your TPH. Usually one arm will have an adjustment that will raise or lower one arm. The tilt can have a dramatic effect on a moldboard plow.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

With the plow in the ground at "operating depth", is the frame level front to rear? It SHOULD be. Sounds like you may have the top link too short. If you have to have the front of the plow in a "nose down attitude" to get it in the ground, better chance than not the shares are dull and/or worn down too far. Plows should be just about perfectly level front to rear and side to side once in the ground and tractor wheels in the previous furrow.

Good way to set the plow is to put right side wheels of the tractor on a block (6" to 7") and then set the plow to level (with plow just a smidge off the floor) Then make MINOR adjustments as needed once in the field.

 

[Ford850]

I'm sure FMJ meant to say put the LEFT wheels on the blocks. And he's right it is a good way to make the major adjustments before getting into the field. I learned it from him years ago and it saves me a lot of time now. Once you make the final adjustments in the field you can measure the top link from pin center to pin center, and note how far (how many cranks) you had to adjust the right 3ph arm. Next time you can make those two adjustments based on those notes and you won't have to use the blocks to start.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I'm sure FMJ meant to say put the LEFT wheels on the blocks. And he's right it is a good way to make the major adjustments before getting into the field. I learned it from him years ago and it saves me a lot of time now. Once you make the final adjustments in the field you can measure the top link from pin center to pin center, and note how far (how many cranks) you had to adjust the right 3ph arm. Next time you can make those two adjustments based on those notes and you won't have to use the blocks to start.

Uhhhh? My OTHER right. Oh well... Did the same mistake at my wedding. When it was time for my wife to put the ring on my finger, I stuck my right hand out. She said something but I was too nervous to understand what I was supposed to do. She put the ring on my right hand. I'm thinking I can get the marriage voided on some sort of technicality.....

 

[harley152]

I have a hydraulic top link and tried it "everywhere" with not much change---I think this should be cutting and rolling over about 7" of sod but seems to work best when the forward bottom is cutting nearly 10" to 12" deep---then the rear at least tries to work but only rolls about 1/2 of the sod over---tried faster and slower without much difference. I downloaded the ferguson plow manual and the shares appear to be within spec. for wear---I guess I'll try the 6" block thing this weekend---Thanks for the imput.

Jerry

P.S. Was told I could only pull 2 bottoms with my tractor but it appears she could handle at least 4---45 hp w/4wd and calc'ed tires---your thoughts?

 

[SCDolphin]

Post a picture

 

[Ford850]

I have a hydraulic top link and tried it "everywhere" with not much change---I think this should be cutting and rolling over about 7" of sod but seems to work best when the forward bottom is cutting nearly 10" to 12" deep---then the rear at least tries to work but only rolls about 1/2 of the sod over---tried faster and slower without much difference. I downloaded the ferguson plow manual and the shares appear to be within spec. for wear---I guess I'll try the 6" block thing this weekend---Thanks for the imput.

Jerry

P.S. Was told I could only pull 2 bottoms with my tractor but it appears she could handle at least 4---45 hp w/4wd and calc'ed tires---your thoughts?

If the soil is light you might be able to get by with more than 2, or if you are using 12" bottoms. Not in heavy soils or in sod. I know 2 bottoms is all I can handle in my soils with 40 - 50 HP. You're better off with fewer bottoms and taking it easy on the tractor so you can keep your speed up.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

The good doctor is right.....We need a picture of the plow attached to the tractor.

 

[Egon]

Attached is a picture of plow that should be similar to yours. Is your hook up similar?

Are the points where the lower drag links attach in the same orientation as the picture?

 

[Farmwithjunk]

A though just occured to me while looking at the photo Egon posted. I bought a 4X14" JD plow a few years ago that a long time farmer had bought new, tried a few times and decided there was something wrong with the way it was made. He gave up on it, put it in the shed and let it set for 20+ years. His son decided to get rid of it. From all appearances, nothing was wrong. I've been around plows since I was old enough to walk and I didn't see a problem immediately. I bought it cheap enough that should there have been a problem, I could have stripped it for parts and come out ahead. When I got it home, I hooked it to one of my tractors and THEN the problem was evident....

Whoever originally assembled it had the offset drawbar rotated 180 degrees out of it's correct alignment. I STILL have that plow! It's been a good one!

 

[harley152]

Egon,

The plow looks identical except mine only has the front coulter(also swinging freely)---In your pic the aft share is lower and front is higher while mine sits pretty level---orientation is the same so must need to adjust the 3 point accordingly---anyone know how on a massey 254 1985 vintage??

Can't post a pic without buying a camera and getting 'puter lessons, sorry.

Jerry

 

[harley152]

OK---daughters phone has camera so lets see if I can send these out for your review--

 

[harley152]

As you can see in the photo's the forward share is level and on the ground and the rear is about 2+ inches off the ground---I was able to figure out how to adjust the lift arms and now they are even, so while you have a look-see I'm going to go try it out---

Jerry

PS---Its amazing what kids these days can do with a cell phone!!!!!!!

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Honestly....., from those pictures, it's difficult to see why you'd be having any troubles. Plow looks fairly level front to rear/side to side. I'm a little curious about the width of cut on the front bottom. Looks like offset drawbar is a bit far to the furrow side. That would cause front bottom to cut a wider slice and give the appearance of moving more dirt even though it was at the same depth. Other than that, looks like you're in the ballpark on other settings.

I noticed the gap under the rear share. I was wondering how level the gravel is under it???? Looks like the rear landslide is parallel with the ground like it should be. Maybe try to extend top link a bit more ????? Too far and the plow will want to ride up out of the ground.

Plow too deep, and the tractor's tires ride in a furrow that's too deep, causing the tractor (and attached plow) to sit out of level, low on the right side. That might make the front (right) bottom sit slightly lower.....just a guess..... Try plowing at 6" to 7" deep and see what takes place.


If at all possible take yet one more photo directly from the LEFT side, 90degrees to the tractor/plow and far enough back to include BOTH in the photo. Pictures can be deceiving....looks like the tail end of the plow MIGHT still be a tick high, which would explain everything.

When I have my MF66 plow hooked to the 150, and it's adjusted correctly, it appears as if the plow is way LOW in the tail end when raised. It runs level in the ground though.

One last wild guess....How much slack is there in all the linkage? Once a plow is in the ground, the top link will be in compression. With a little slack here and some more there, it's not impossible for the cumulative effect to add up to enough so the plow raises a couple inches or more in the rear.

 

[Egon]

Is the plough aligned straight with the direction of travel?

Horizontal alignment back to front as you have mentioned?

 

[harley152]

FMJ---

The gravel area under tractor is very level in the photo's---I was able to adjust the lift arms to level out the plow while on the 8x8"s(although I'm at the limit of travel on the right one)---went out and played with it some and it's much better now although not perfect.

It works "pretty" good in soil worked(tilled) last fall but is rather poor in virgin pasture---perhaps I expect too much but have been playing hobby farmer for only a few years and the tiller makes wonderful seed beds, the grasses and clover seem to return with a vengence and starve out the vegtables before they really get a chance---I thought by plowing I could beat the grass and clover, enrich the soil and grow good veggies---pretty new at this you know!!!

Will continue to tune and practice---
when daughter gets home will tru to get more pics.

thanks ,

Jerry

 

[Egon]

Good to hear it's working better.

The moldboards are not really proper for turning sod.

Some shown.

 

[LAWALLSTRACTOR]

FMJ---

The gravel area under tractor is very level in the photo's---I was able to adjust the lift arms to level out the plow while on the 8x8"s(although I'm at the limit of travel on the right one)---went out and played with it some and it's much better now although not perfect.

It works "pretty" good in soil worked(tilled) last fall but is rather poor in virgin pasture---perhaps I expect too much but have been playing hobby farmer for only a few years and the tiller makes wonderful seed beds, the grasses and clover seem to return with a vengence and starve out the vegtables before they really get a chance---I thought by plowing I could beat the grass and clover, enrich the soil and grow good veggies---pretty new at this you know!!!

Will continue to tune and practice---
when daughter gets home will tru to get more pics.

thanks ,

Jerry

I would put money on it that the rear bottom is sprung. Sight it from the rear and see if the 2 bottoms set at the same angles. If not it is sprung and probably won't ever do a perfect job of plowing. I hope not but I bet it is.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I would put money on it that the rear bottom is sprung. Sight it from the rear and see if the 2 bottoms set at the same angles. If not it is sprung and probably won't ever do a perfect job of plowing. I hope not but I bet it is.

I'm not saying it ISN'T sprung, but it doesn't APPEAR sprung in the pictures. Along with the bottoms looking mis-aligned, a sprung rear bottom USUALLY ends up with the front tip of the share pointing noticably towards the ground (in contrast to the front) It's almost impossible to tell without "being there" though.

Another thought....It MAY be the way the pictures look, but it appears that the rear share may be worn quite a bit more than the front. It's not UNcommon to break the point off of a front share. At that time it may have been replaced, leaving a much more worn rear share.....and as time goes by, they both wear more, the rear becoming "worn out". Dull or overly worn shares don't like to go in the ground.

Sight along the edged of both shares. Does it appear that the rear has a slight curve as oppose to a straighter edge on the front? And again, the pictures may be deceiving, but the front share appears WIDER (from bottom edge to edge nearest moldboard) to my 61 year old eyes anyway.