Plowed today, Impression of R4 has changed.

[WayneW]

About tires for snow removal. My dealer advised me to keep turfs on the tractor (he has a big snow removal company and all his M95/105/125 are mounted with turf tires). I must say a was a bit surprised about that statement but it works very well. He told me that if, for any reason, I'd need chains the turf tires are very well suited for that purpose because the chains stay in place far better than on R4. He has a lot more experience than me about snow removal so I guess it'd be wise for me to believe what he's saying.

Also (if you have a nicely paved driveway) smaller chains can be used with turfs and still be effective. Smaller chains on R1 and R4 tires can move within the cleats (because of the large void between treads) on the tire and also sort of get "lost" in the deep tread - reducing their effectiveness. Whereas smaller link chains ride tightly against the smoother surface of a turf tire, R1 & R4 tires take better to a larger link chain. More heavy-duty, but very hard on a driveway. They can gouge the asphalt pretty good. At least I did with chains on my little Cub (R1 tires)

 

[SpringHollow]

A front loader mounted Curtis style plow is a wonderful way to plow snow. I have never had problems with mine in the last 5 years that I have been using one. You can push snow into huge piles because you can lift the blade high up in the air. Even when I was recently plowing out a neighbor and found out that they had 18" tall stumps lining their driveway buried in the 28" of frozen snow piles, it did not hurt the tractor (I was glad the plow had springs!). Admittedly, i drive slower than most. But the tractor with double ring chains is able to push back even the frozen piles left behind by the pickup truck plows. You are real popular in the neighborhood when you have one of these loader setups. I upgraded by adding hydraulic angling cylinders a couple of years ago and like it even more. I like it much better than using a bucket, frame mounted blades, and 3 pt back blades all of which I have used in the past. It is really nice not to have to keep looking behind you like when using a back blade and it is also nice to have your wheels on a freshly plowed surface while plowing undisturbed snow.

A snow blower might be nice for some of the narrow, long driveways when there are large snows but it would take longer on most days and I definitely would be covered in snow.

Ken

 

[WALT]

Ken:

As I just created this plow set-up this January 2007, my big (only) storm was 4" of powdery snow with a 2" sleet/ice crust. The area has only received 12" of the average 60"-72" snowfall this season. I was hoping for a 18"-24" snowstorm this year to try out the plow. I even plowed a couple of 2"-3" snowfalls just to practice my technique. With the skid steer quick-a-tach, I can change from plow to loader bucket in a minute, if I need to bucket the snow.

I previously plowed my 400'+ driveway with a combination of loader bucket & rear blades, which worked, but not as well as plowing. As the local weather is expected to be in the 60's in three days, it looks like I will be waiting until next winter for the big snow.

WALT

 

[mike69440]

WayneW:

Those dealer observations are true. As with any owner created stuff, the burden is on the owner-designer to not exceed the limits of the tractor. After experimenting, it was determined that the proper angle of use means that the loader arms are raised, raising the center of gravity, and placing more stress on the loader arms. As the L-39 loader frame is permanently mounted and stronger than the L-series loaders, I believe it can handle the load that the plow creates.

The plow does project out 24"+ forward of the quick attach plate, creating the leverage that you referred to. As such, you need to account for this when turning & backing, in addition to avoiding solid non-moving items like trees, stones, buildings etc. Whacking that stuff increases the chance of damaging the loader arms, plow/frame and tractor.

I'm guessing the plow & frame were at the dump due to the fact that the plow steel was cracked and frame bent from numerous contact with the above mentioned stuff. I welded, reinforced & un-bent the obvious damaged stuff. I spent around $200.00 including the quick attach plate, steel, paint etc. to restore this. I think that the Curtis plow new is around $2000.00

I feel that I have a usable attachment at a reasonable price. However, as I am the only operator of the tractor/plow, I know it's limitations, and stay within them.

WALT

Walt

Couple of Questions.

1. Why is your L-39 so clean?

2. Does the front end get kicked around with the plow?

3. What is that attached to the loader upright?

 

[workinallthetime]

man you snow mowers got it rough it was 70 all week here

 

[WALT]

Mike:

Answers to your questions:

1. While unpopular with some here, I believe in keeping my large $$$$ investment clean. I had some hydraulic leaks from my rear remote valves, which were finally repaired with replacing the couplers for the 3rd time. As such the tractor was washed to locate the leak source & origin, in addition to regular cleaning of the mud, slop & grease. My tractors are garaged when not being used. My friends bought harleys, I bought tractors.....

2. As I have had only one 6" storm to plow, & 2- 2" storms to play around with, the real test is the 12"+ storm that is yet to occur. With this set-up, you have to finesse the curl angle to keep the plow edge off the ground and then tripping the plow. As I plow in 3-4, you can end up with the loader/plow stationary, and the tractor moving forward, lifting the front wheels off the ground. This can also happen using a bucket if you hit a solid object.
The combination of the loader arms/plow attachment can act as a lever in relation to the center of the tractor wheelbase. The front end becomes the pivot point with this plow attachment, breaking loose the rear axle in low traction or too high a plow speed. If you allow the front tires to loose traction, it goes straight ahead, if the plow fills with heavy snow, the rear can slide out. Ultimately, the more you use it, the better your results will be.

3. I think that you are referring to the front aux. hydraulics, on the inside right loader arm. It allows me to angle the snow plow and operate my grapple attachment. It is a W.R. Long kit, operated by a loader joystick mounted rocker switch.

WALT

 

[mike69440]

Walt

Thanks,

My L-39 needs a good pressure washing, however first I must wait for the spring to get water.

Spent part of Saturday tightening my fittings and lubricating the BH linkages, painting scratches etc.

The Aux Hydraulics on my Kubota are bolted to the frame.

Mike