Plugged grease joint

/ Plugged grease joint #21  
Just curious.. I have a couple zerks that I can get a pump or two into.. Then the grease starts coming back out of the middle of the zerk..

Is that a stopped up zerk OR just doesnt need grease?

thanks

b

That would suggest that the zerk is fine, but the passage is blocked.
 
/ Plugged grease joint #22  
That would suggest that the zerk is fine, but the passage is blocked.

how do you correct this? This is happening on the front pivot pin on the tractor and on the PTO universal joint on the rough cutter


thanks

brian
 
/ Plugged grease joint
  • Thread Starter
#23  
how do you correct this? This is happening on the front pivot pin on the tractor and on the PTO universal joint on the rough cutter


thanks

brian
Following some of the suggestions I've received, pulling the pin and cleaning, using of of those tools that blow it out, or possibly heating the fitting may help (not so sure in this case), or removing the zerk and picking the plug out from the joint with a toothpick or something. . The HF tool sells for $20, and there some discounts this weekend of 25%...so you might get it for $15.
 
/ Plugged grease joint #25  
Be careful about heating the fitting .One time a mechinic and I heated a fitting on the front wing tower of my plow truck because it would not take greese. After about 2 min with a actelyne torch there was a snap and a window pane expolded .The small ball bering in the tip had flown out and gone through the nearby window.This defineatly would have ruined your day if the ball had hit your eye. He had been a mechinic for 30 years and never had that happen before so beware it can happen.
 
/ Plugged grease joint #26  
how do you correct this? This is happening on the front pivot pin on the tractor and on the PTO universal joint on the rough cutter


thanks

brian

I suppose it would depend on where it's happening. Some places, like the U-joint on the PTO shaft, can be disassembled and cleaned fairly easily. On other places, perhaps heating and then pumping in grease, hoping the clog breaks free. Of course, you would want to pump in more grease when it cools.
 
/ Plugged grease joint #27  
Old grease can get pretty think, Actually it can get down right hard.

So a pin that has not been greased in a while and will not take more grease can be caused by the grease hardening.

The problem with forcing grease through with the hammer devices, is that the grease will find the path of least resistance and not grease around the entire pin leaving most of the pin lubricated by the old hard grease.

The only correct way to cure this problem is to remove the pin, clean it and the grease orifices and replace. Then grease regularly.

I have never had a regularly greased grease fitting stop taking grease.

JMHO
 
/ Plugged grease joint #28  
After running about trying to find a replacement zerk, I just bought a box of metric and a box of SAE from HF using a coupon. Nice to have them when I need them.
 
/ Plugged grease joint #29  
Be careful about heating the fitting .One time a mechinic and I heated a fitting on the front wing tower of my plow truck because it would not take greese. After about 2 min with a actelyne torch there was a snap and a window pane expolded .The small ball bering in the tip had flown out and gone through the nearby window.This defineatly would have ruined your day if the ball had hit your eye. He had been a mechinic for 30 years and never had that happen before so beware it can happen.

Uh, Oh.. that could have made quite a mess.. maybe some moisture in there? turned to steam? anyway a lot a pressure to force the check-ball out the end of the zerk. Certainly something to consider.

James K0UA
 
/ Plugged grease joint #30  
I agree with jmanatee2, it almost turns to wax as the oil separates out. Heat will melt it but not clear it all out.
 
/ Plugged grease joint #31  
/ Plugged grease joint
  • Thread Starter
#32  
Sweet. Just got a set of both SAE and metric.

JayC
Yep, same here...thanks to jfs2295 for the link. I had picked up just 2 metric Zerks at the local auto parts and paid almost $5 for them. I've passed on the HF ones...had a few Chinese jobs break off on me. The Neiko may be imports, but they'll be good quality. I've only ordered the SAE, still looking for the Neiko metric; if I can't find them I'll probably go with the HF set.
 
/ Plugged grease joint #33  
I have some Zerks on a Leinbach disc harrow that won't take grease. I just bought it used and it had been sitting out in the weather for a while. I was looking at just replacing the zerks, but I'm not sure how to get them off. The base of the zerks are round and not hex shaped so no place for a wrench or socket to fit. Anyone have some insight on how to remove/replace?

Thanks,
HP
 
/ Plugged grease joint #34  
If you know the zerks need to come out, how about using vise grips? Or, filing two sides so an adjustable wrench could get a grip?

Have you already tried heat or one of the oil injectors to clear the dried grease?
 
/ Plugged grease joint #35  
I have some Zerks on a Leinbach disc harrow that won't take grease. I just bought it used and it had been sitting out in the weather for a while. I was looking at just replacing the zerks, but I'm not sure how to get them off. The base of the zerks are round and not hex shaped so no place for a wrench or socket to fit. Anyone have some insight on how to remove/replace?

Thanks,
HP

I had the same problem on the same Leinbach disc harrow. Don't feel bad, mine was only a few years old. In my case I used visegrips on the ones that were not broken, and an easy out on the ones that were. Those fittings were pot metal, so I replaced them with some worse ones from harbor freight:eek:. Thats what I had laying around, and at $4-5 each, those zinc plated ones were to much for a disc.
 
/ Plugged grease joint #36  
Thanks guys. I ran out of time over the weekend to try the heat method or remove. I thought I'd do some research first and ask what anybody has done with something like this. I'll try heat first and if that doesn't work, I'll try the vise grips to ease them out and replace. I did squirt them with penetrating oil on Sunday, so they've had plenty of time to soak. $4-$5 each? Did you try Tractor Supply? I think they have packages of them for cheaper...

HP
 
/ Plugged grease joint #37  
This reminds me of some zerks I have that wount take grease and I'm stumped. These fittings are on the leaf spring bushings on my dumptruck. Of course, I've replaced the fittings, only to realize the channels, grooves, whatever are packed with hard grease. I removed the fittings and used a 3&1/2" long #12 screw and actually screwed it into the old crud and kept extracting it to get the oldd crud out, but alas, they still wont take grease. I even squirted penetrant into the holes, still no workie.
Not sure what to do at this point, but the bushings are expensive & time consuming to replace.
 
/ Plugged grease joint #38  
I had good luck cleaning a stuck zerk fitting by just unscrewing & working a stick pin up inside it. It was prob a little piece of sand, & I either loosened it or removed it altogether with the pin. Not sure which, but it's worked fine ever since.
 
/ Plugged grease joint #39  
sounds like a drve zerk. if it would clear with an impact oil injector or heat. snatch it out and seat a new one. if hole is too large hit the face of the hole with a hammer a couple times to shrink it.

soundguy
 
/ Plugged grease joint #40  
If the Zert is just plugged I use a needle attachment and a lever grease gun. If the pin and groves are plugged, remove the pin and clean it up, if it has the press in ones tap it out and put in screw in ones. Sometimes you can with a levered gun get enough pressure to power the grease threw but make sure it comes out both sides of the pin. Better to do the full job the first time that buy new pins and bushing later.
Just a thought!
 
 

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