Pole Barn Construction tips / heating?

Slippy · Feb 19, 2003

I just purchased a 30 x 48 pole barn materials with 12' walls. I will begin construction in the spring. Any suggestions for do's and don'ts? I plan to use my tractor to dig the holes, set the posts, grade, back fill, set trusses. Any tips on these jobs, or other ways to make the job go smoother?
Also, I do not have electric on my property at present, and probably will not for some time due to the cost. I am putting in a small living quarters in one end, 30' by 16'. Ideas on how to best heat it? Ideas on how to layout floor plan?

cowboydoc · Feb 19, 2003

If you haven't done this before make sure you get your poles set exactly right. Remember too that your tin will be the outside measurements not your poles. Measure to the end of your poles and then you need to add 3" to get to the outside diameter. Make sure you are level with your poles. The poles are the most important part of the project in my opinion. Also make sure you put your poles below the frost level.

If you haven't yet go with screws and not nails. I also like to screw in the valleys and not in the ribs.

With regard to your heating I would just put in a central heating/air conditioning system. I had one done that has worked flawlessly in the last two years. Cost was $1800 installed. I filled a 500 gallon tank last season and it still isn't even half way gone, very efficient.

Slippy · Feb 19, 2003

I did get screws and your other ideas are appriciated. However, I do not have electric for central air. Other ideas?

cowboydoc · Feb 19, 2003

If you don't have electric you're going to have to go with wood or a coal burning stove. Everything else at least requires electric to run the blowers, etc. Most propane/natural gas units also require electric.

djradz · Feb 19, 2003

I added 2x4 studs, flush with the inside of the 6" posts, and then insulated and drywalled. Make sure you put at least 6 or more inches in the ceiling before you put your ceiling up, unless you're blowing insulation in.

JEP · Feb 20, 2003

A small wood stove is probably the way to go without 120/240Vac. You could hook up a solar panel/windmill 12 V DC system to power a fan to circulate the air in the room and provide some lighting.

Room layout probably does not matter too much. Having the stove in the center may make it more comfortable.

The newer EPA certified wood stoves really kick out the heat. Pre heated air is brought in to ignite the unburned gases that come out of the wood. Make sure the room is not too air tight, the stove will need air to operate. You could make a direct connection to the outside for the stove air so you don’t bring cold air throughout the room. Although bringing in fresh air constantly may not be a bad thing.

I've been doing some research on insulating barns and houses. The latest (?) insulating technique is radiant barriers. It is basically a reflective foil laminated on one or both sides of an insulating bubble wrap like rolls. It comes in different thicknesses for different applications and is also recommended under concrete floors and improves radiant floor heating efficiency. It also acts as a vapor barrier in floors, walls and ceilings. I noticed they even sell it at Home Depot along with 2" thick foam insulating panels with one reflective side.

Low-e

One installation technique is to put the radiant barrier between the wood or metal studs/trusses and the metal sheeting of barns. The radiant barrier in combination with 4-6" of fiberglass insulation is supposed to be quite effective. I might cover the whole barn first with the radiant barrier first, attach all the metal sheeting. It will provide some insulation, probably keep it much cooler in the summer and I would be able add other insulation later.

CTyler · Feb 20, 2003

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I might cover the whole barn first with the radiant barrier first, attach all the metal sheeting. It will provide some insulation, probably keep it much cooler in the summer and I would be able add other insulation later. )</font>

I am having insulation installed that has about 2" of fiberglass on one side and reflective on the other. This is installed between the metal and the poles. The main reason is to try and keep the heat out in the summer. When I finish the inside I can add more insulation. You have to maintain an air gap for a reflective/radiant barrier to work well. This way it will not conduct the heat. I'll probably add the foam sheets when the time comes.

Slippy · Feb 20, 2003

Thanks for the tips so far. I did purchase a product called Tuff R. It is a foam board with foil on the inside. It goes between the metal siding and the girts. Purspose is to mainly keep moisture out and provide some insulation.
Also, the company I bought the building from says 4x6 post are plenty for a 30' wide building. Is that true? Or, is 6x6 required. I know it would be better, but I don't want to through money away. If not needed I put the money toward that backhoe I'm looking for.

CTyler · Feb 21, 2003

It depends on how many posts they use and the roof loading. Check out the local building codes as well.

Green_in_MI · Feb 21, 2003

The comments by CTyler about checcking your local building codes is the best advice you are going to get here. There has been lots of discussion on this bord about compliance with building codes - pro and con. I happen to be on the pro side because its easier to do what they want, happily, and get a good reputation with the inspector instead of doing re-work of your project later. My inspector now thinks I overbuild stuff and I tell you that is a very good thing.

What you are proposing about "living space" in your barn may be a violation of the codes. Barns, even in agricultural districts are an accessory use and are subject to different rules than a residence. You have to pay attention to things like setbacks and noncomforming use and a whole host of other codes.

The specs for the pole barn you buy may be ok in the county or twp where you bought it but not where you live. I don't like towing the line with the inspector(because I sometinmes don't think he knows as much as I do) but it makes life a lot easier when you do. For me its a question of do you want to get the job done or argue about? And if they find out and you don't follow code you may have to tear out a lot of what you did. If the inspector does not believe you sunk your posts below frost line he can "ORDER" you to dig them up and prove it. And if you have a disaster of some sort your insurance carrier will tell you tough luck we won't pay. That could be the worst. Of course all this talk is moot if you don't live where there are these rules. Then just follow the best building advice you find on this board. Good luck!