pole barn designing 40x64ish

[countrybumpkin]

Finally got the building up , just have to pour the 30 x 40 part of the floor then I can finish. Still have dirt work to do but it's a bit soggy.

 

[ultrarunner]

It's a good feeling when your equipment is weather protected... good job!

 

[LD1]

Nice barn. Still waiting on better ground conditions to get moving on mine.

 

[SPIKER]

LD how wet is it down your way>? Up here there are still a lot of SNOW piles but for most part in last day/two the yard snow is done & soggy wet with water still laying on top of soil as 3+" down it is still frozen. The water is running off at least to a point so north and south of here it is hopefully about done. WHAT a WINTER bad as the late 70's. I have had to park at end of drive last week to keep rutting down only to have a Propane Company come out UN-anounced to take back the rental tank that has sat for last 6 months and leave 60' of duals 6" deep ruts in drive 3/4 down till he got stuck... I'm sending them a BILL for some gravel I do believe. Guess he was too stupid to figure out why I had 2 cars parked at the end of the drive by the street...

Mark

 

[LD1]

Yesterday AM it was still frozen in a few places 3-4" down

Still dealing with tons of water and soggy ground. Between the rain, snow melt, and frost coming up, its messy. Hope it gets better sooner rather than later.

 

[ishiboo]

Let me back up a little bit. I'm just agreeing with you that three laminated 2x6's are stronger then a solid 6x6's on the basis that both are more then strong enough to do the job and it doesn't matter which one is actually stronger.

Secondly, I would never use three 2x6's instead of a 6x6 for anything. It's too small of an amount to matter to me and my name when building something. I've never met a client who complained about using the best materials I know of.

Catching up again on this post and I have to completely disagree with you here.

Laminated 2x6s is BETTER than a single 6x6, which is why it's getting popular. If I was building pole barns with my name on it, it would certainly be with laminated posts. I'm not sure why you think it's cheapening out, a 6x6x12' SYP laminated post is $48 from Menards, an AC2 6x6 most people use is 37.83.

First, let's take the bottom part... which is often the only treated part in these composite posts as it's all you need, and then you don't worry about corrosion to everything steel near the upper part of the post. The 2x6s being 1/3rd the depth are treated 100% through to refusal, versus the 6x6 which due to its depth, has often not taken treatment all the way through. This is why when you cut a 6x6, you paint treatment on the end.

Now the upper part. If you've ever bought a 6x6, or a few at a time, and not IMMEDIATELY used them... you'll see them twist and bend fairly quickly. The laminated posts have differing woodgrain, and ideally alignment, so it's much more dimensionally stable. You can also build straight, strong and long posts much more easily with spliced pieces, which on a 14' sidewall building may not be too important, but consider the gable ends of a taller building could have posts that are quite tall.

 

[ishiboo]

Lumber over a span will sag over time. Bigger lumber sags less and it takes longer to happen. You size the lumber according to the span and when there is an additional load on the span, you double or triple up those boards. To make it even stronger, you add plywood between your boards. Plywood or OSB has tremendous sheer strength and it will not sag over time when on it's edge. This is why OSB is being used for I joist. The top and bottoms boards are just there to keep the OSB straight, but don't add much in the way of strength. All that strength in the Plywood or OSB is added to the strength of the lumber used in the header when they are all tightly fastened together.

Common misconception you've voiced here of wood I-joists, and definitely a dangerous suggestion. The top and bottom boards are the most critical and what are in compression at the top, and tension at the bottom. That is why you can NEVER cut or notch them. They are DEFINITELY there for strength. The height of the web changes the loads on the flanges. That's also why they are finger jointed and glued, instead of the OSB web which can be simply butt-jointed together. It's also why you can drill a hole basically the entire height of the web in the OSB, but you cannot touch the flanges with anything other than a nail Often times these discussions come up and people argue which part is more important... it is a composite, engineered structural member... neither of which piece is any less important.