Pole Building

truckdiagnostics · Dec 13, 2014

Pole building.
Recently had surgery so can稚 do much so figured I would lay out our new building project.
We had two shelter logic tarp storage building, for 8 years now. They are filled and we have just out grown them. Every time we go to pay our tax bill I will miss them. We ended up with a 30 x 72 x16 pole shed. Width and height wise that is the biggest we could get in where we are. We had to put it in a lower spot on the property which presented its issues and I will cover that when I get to the land clearing.
The 16 height that was a debate I will tell you, as I ended up tucking it in behind the other buildings so the wife didn稚 have to see it from the house. We went 16 so we could go with a 30 x 24 room on the one end and still have storage above it. We might have been able to keep it lower with a scissors truss, then you end up centering the door for the clearance and when you add the extra costs for the height in the grand scheme of things doesn稚 amount to much. We also went with a 42 wainscoting and 24 over hang.
Bottom line is I want the kids to be able to sell it for enough so I can get the good nursing home.
Building came from Menards, can稚 beat the price and it was a hassle. I have not found an estimator for them on line but they have one in their stores gives good cost and a pretty good materials break down that you can work backwards.
The guy that is doing this build worked with me to frame both the office and shop so I am fairly confident he will do it for that price. I have looked at the Menards materials? And you can稚 beat it.
Cost break down
All building materials(less overhead doors) $15,000
Erection cost $5,500
Stone fill $3000
Total $23,500

Here is a link to who puts together their Post frame kits, you will find it helpful for laying out and how they have it engineered. I have found it useful for comparing build specs. If you are in different area you will have different wind and snow loads, but this is a start.
Steve
http://www.midwestmanufacturing.com/MidwestManufacturing/web/docs/pdf/PostframeHH.pdf

JUBILEE1953 · Dec 13, 2014

Please post progress pictures. I like your project.

truckdiagnostics · Jan 11, 2015

Land Clearing
This project would not have been impossible without a transit, pallet forks, tracks and ripper bar on the bucket. The back hoe attachment, where as it is an expensive toy, everything here could been done without it. The issue we had was getting everything to drain correctly. The area directly in front of pic 1, was a low spot that would fill with standing water.

The land before we purchased it was a farm and over the years the farmers throw all the rocks in the whole and scrub trees grow with interlocking trunks and roots. We had to get that area to drain, so we could place the building off to the left. We had just enough pitch to be able to get rid of it without a dry well. In fact last fall we installed one and pumped it out all spring, just so we could get in and work it. (pic 2)

The back hoe in pic 3, waste of time. What we found worked best was leave stump high, use the forks to jab into the ground to rip the roots lose. Then you can put the forks high on the stump, work it back and forth and just fold it over. Then use the forks as a paddle to put the stumps in a pile and burn them.

We then used the ripper bar (pic 4) as a rake to pile up the brush and burn. The only thing we used the hoe for was the trench for the drain tile. It was not very deep and we could have used the forks, but we had the hoe so why not. (pic 5).

We were able to get everything to look like this (pic 6), without any hand raking. We used the ripper bar to rake the seed in, hired someone for the chain saw work and that was it.

truckdiagnostics · Jan 11, 2015

Here is where we sit today. Waiting for the right weather. We put the poles in the ground before the frost. The holes are 52 deep, there is a patio block they sit on then, two by six nailed around outside, this makes it, so the frost cannot push the pole up. (pic 1a)

The header is for a small over head door. The top girt is spaced down for a 24 over hang all the way around. (pic 2a)
We have to wait for the ground to freeze so we can get around the outside with the lift truck without sinking. The building will be finished this winter.

truckdiagnostics · Feb 12, 2015

Started back at it. Weather in the mid 20s, as we need the ground frozen so we can get around the building with the lift truck.

just about the last truss

The 24" over hang framing

The is where we/he ended. after the first day. In reality there is only one guy doing it, i'm not doing much, but providing moral support. One guy pretty much built the whole thing by himself. Its fun to watch him work. he has it down to a science. What you are looking at right now poles and everything is one guy, 30 hours.

woodchipper · Feb 22, 2015

Hey truckdiagnostics:
Thank you for replying to my thread.
Your build has many similarities with the one I plan on building. You are using laminated beams, out of PT 2x6s for inground, and regular spruce on top. Good water drainage around the poles, is the key to the beams longevity. Did you glue them, or are they simply screwed together?
You did a good job at clearing the land, and preping the grounds. That delivery truck has quite a load!
For a building 30x72, and a price of 23k, that sounds darn cheep. Hard to beleive, compared to what we pay here. Do the price include some interior finishing and insulation?
For a one man team, and having all this work done with only 30hrs put down, you are a real winner!!! An unbeleivably impressive pace, and well thought work threwout the board. You are lucky to have this worker, to say the least.:thumbsup:
I hope you will soon report back on your thread! I will be very inclined to follow it.
Thank you for posting Sir.

truckdiagnostics · Feb 22, 2015

The poles are nailed together. Then the middle section for say the last three feet is loose so you can remove it cut it to length to adjust the height of the truss. This way getting the poles at the exact depth is not so critical. The 23k is just for closing it in, including over head doors. Don,t know what your footing depth is ours is 48" drilling the holes was ruff, couple of spots had to use the hoe, couldn't get the boulder out.

truckdiagnostics · Mar 9, 2015

Things are thawing out, this would be why we had to do all the work when the ground was frozen. There is a drain, just in front of the gray tarp building. Looks like we will be putting heat tape in that for next year.

On this side the water goes the other direction. They cut two sheets 8" short, so they will have to be special ordered, around here everything is special order unless is is, green, brown or tan. We had to put most of it together with white screws as they shorted us the gray one and they are special order. We will go back take all the white screws out and replace them. We had to get the steel up while ground was frozen.

Here is inside view. My big concern was venting the building and keeping condensation as low as possible. That is actually why i went with the white for roof color.

In the back 22-24' I am going to put a heated room with storage above. It will be a poured floor with in floor heat. We are going to use a 40 gal propane hot water heater that is about 2 years old, got it when some one put in one of those instant hot water heaters. As long as everything is insulated real well should heat things just fine. Still not sure on how we are going to do floor joists, I joists or floor truss. Then want to use a Jib crane to lift things for storage. I'll put the questions i have on that in a separate post.