Poly closure foam for metal roofing?

mojoinco · Jun 1, 2011

I have used both the molded closures & cut resilient (closed cell) foam pipe insulation. The pipe insulation I cut to fit the tops of the walls, the closures I bought for my roof cap. The closures had double backed tape on one side, and depending on where on the roof they were, had screws through them. I had to replace them due to the tape drying up and some blew out. I wasn't going up the roof more than I needed to, so bought them in advance of the repair (hence no effort to retape them). As my metal contour was unique (branded and proprietary panel) I was stuck with my purchase (we ended up donating the 1/2 box left to get rid of them).

I am a big fan of closures for snow and rain control (critter & wind are also pluses). Gets cold in the winter!

2manyrocks · Jun 2, 2011

MMagis said:
Now I see what youæ±*e saying. That would probably work to some degree. But, the rib walls arenç¨š at 90 degrees to the flats, so youå£‡ still have small openings. I think it sounds like too much work for me.

Maybe less work than having to replace foam closures later?

MMagis · Jun 3, 2011

2manyrocks said:
Maybe less work than having to replace foam closures later?

Good point.

2manyrocks · Jul 25, 2011

Maybe too late for this project, but in case anybody searches this thread later, I came upon a roofing article today where the author suggested installing a piece of L angle under the top edge of the roof under the ridge cap to block any rain that blows in. Less work than cutting and bending the roof panels.

MMagis · Jul 26, 2011

How would that work with corrugated metal roofing? Or would it?

GLyford · Jul 26, 2011

MMagis said:
How would that work with corrugated metal roofing?

One leg of the L is long enough to be as tall (or taller) than the corrugations, and is used to block off the gaps at the ends. The other leg gets tucked in between the panel and purlin and gets held in place when you fasten the panel down, or you could also apply it from the top and screw it down onto the ribs. You can also get prebent "c" flashing that wraps back around both the top and bottom. Having a flat surface on top can be usefull if you want a flat surface for butyl tape or such between the filler and the ridgecap.

There is also a "z" pattern, though I think that gets used more on sidewalls, particularly if you're transitioning to or from the metal to clear/translucent plastic panels. Then it doesn't matter if the corrugation spacings are different...