Pondering building a house for my tractor

   / Pondering building a house for my tractor
  • Thread Starter
#21  
Wow...you must really use the compressor. Good point though. I'm thinking the compressor should go where the door is rather than the back of the garage for easier access to the outside.
 
   / Pondering building a house for my tractor
  • Thread Starter
#22  
I was thinking about a winch like this.... It only lifts 4k lbs but I can't think of anything I would ever lift heavier. Hmmm...where should I put it?
 
   / Pondering building a house for my tractor #23  
rick,

I saw a couple people built shops/barns and thought they had a good idea about the open storage shed type things. If you build one why not 2? I can see a need for one for firewood and then on the other side if you get a trailor or a boat or camper or motor home it would have a parkign spot on the other side. It would be real handy to have a roof and 3 walls protecting those types of items. I am not een sure you need to concrete the floors, perhaps just gravel would be okay. Would help keep the cost down.
 
   / Pondering building a house for my tractor
  • Thread Starter
#24  
Oppps...picture of the winch didn't post.
 

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   / Pondering building a house for my tractor #25  
firemanpat2910 said:
you cant have enough air outlets in a garage. Put some outside for filling tires and such. Some right at the work bench. And close enough down the side walls that you dont need hoses stretchd every where. As little as pvc costs run it all the way around the 3 side walls and t out to a quick connect fitting /or cap them off and add fittings as desired.

Agreed on the need for more air outlets.

But NEVER RUN AIR (or any compressed gas) in PVC!!! People do it and get away with it for some time. But PVC shatters and compressed gas stores way too much energy. It's called a bomb, or an accident waiting to happen (when somebody knocks an airline or the plastic just gets brittle and lets go). Just ask the PVC makers and OSHA (or the equivalent in other countries). Compressed air in PVC is a stupid way to save money. Just run air hoses instead if you cannot afford pipe rated for air (steel, copper, some PEX).

sdb
 
   / Pondering building a house for my tractor #26  
rickmacheske said:
I was avoiding the water because of county inspections, etc. They probably would want me to heat it if I put water in it. It freezes out here though not often. My septic system is also way on the other side of the lot plus the house will only be about 100 yards away. I have been meaning to put a utility sink in there.

You certainly do not need septic with a utility sink unless you are going to washing up soiled diapers.

Would the county give you a problem with a regular freeze-proof hydrant just outside the shop? Hmmm... ;)

sdb
 
   / Pondering building a house for my tractor #27  
It might be cheaper to get a new wife.:D Just kidding of course.;) Good luck with the new shop.
 
   / Pondering building a house for my tractor #28  
go 30x30'
If you are planning a fixed stairway and are going to have a door/ceiling tall enough for a ROPS then you will need the 30' for the stairway run and required landings at top and bottom. Put the stairs across the back and use the underside for a work bench area, or storage.
Plan on a very heavy workbench with the biggest baddest vice you can get.

You can always run water after the final signoff. You can run the sink drain to a drywell, just be carefull what you put down the sink of course.

By the way, if you are running flourecent lighting, use two circuits, one off each side of the 240 mains. Why you ask? So that the light pulses are 180 degrees out of phase. Why you ask? So that rotating assemblies don't strobe with the lights. That's an old machine shop safety tip. It happens.
 
   / Pondering building a house for my tractor #29  
Both sides of 240 on a single phase residential service will not prevent strobing, if it is going to happen. On a 240 1 phase system both legs have the voltage zero crossing at the same time. (I never noticed strobing in my shop, perhaps I have just enough incandescent light to prevent it or the modern fluorescent tubes have enough persistence to prevent it.) Two legs of an industrial 3 phase system would provide the benefit mentioned.
 
   / Pondering building a house for my tractor #30  
I second the idea on the rafters. I'd recommend having a heavy lifting beam across the center, supported by extra beefy posts in the side wall. This way you can use elec. or chain hoist if you ever need to pull an engine, lift an attachment, etc. I use mine sometimes to lift attachments and roll a dolly underneath. I also use it to lift the MMM when time to remove and sharpen blades.
 

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