Pool equipment techs?

   / Pool equipment techs? #1  

Pixguy

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I received a call from my BIL (brother on law) in FL who cares for my pool in FL during the months that I'm away. I changed the pool over to a salt pool last January, got the chems all set and everything seemed fine. The pool is only a year and a half old and I'm not sure but I think the pump was undersized at 1/2hp. (12,000gal)
He informed me that my Pentair pump is cycling on for only 10 seconds and then off. He also said the water was tested and he was told to add liquid chlorine, acid and of course, more salt. I'm checking but I'm calling this am to see if the warranty is any more than the usual 1 year.

I am going to be there Saturday and will bring my tester. What should I look for when testing the motor? Should I replace with a 3/4hp or a more efficient, triple the price multi cycle pump? Does the heavier salt water wear the pump down quicker?
 
   / Pool equipment techs? #2  
1/2 HP is small for your pool size, but that should only mean slower turnover of water, but not a failure. A smaller pump has some advantages with a SWG since the quantity of chlorine is more determined by runtime. So a smaller pump running longer may actually be a better choice. To replace it finding 3/4 HP is getting hard. 1 HP seems the default. I recently picked up a Hayward 1 HP new on ebay for a little over $ 100. I did not need one now, but mine is getting old. the base rusted out and I welded up a new mount, but it is only a matter of time before rust wins.

Getting back, if the pump is stopping, it is likely the internal thermal overload. The motor is sized for the pump so it should not overload. Likely is the centrifugal start switch is bad. This means it does not kick out of the start winding and will overload. If you take apart the end of the motor, you will see the switch contacts. Sometimes lubricating the flyweight assembly (on the rotor) of filing down the contacts will fix it, but more often something in the switch breaks. It is then cheaper to replace the pump as the motor will generally cost nearly as much.

variable speed pumps are nice, but take many years to pay for themselves. In my opinion, not worth it. As for the pool, check the salt level with a salt test kit (buy one if you do not have one). Make sure you have a good test kit, like a Taylor 2005 or 2006. No need to add salt once it is at a good level. Salt is lost only by splash or pumping water out. Only small supplements should be needed. With SWG it is important to use cyanuric acid stabilizer. Try to get 50 ppm or so. It helps preserve chlorine as it is generated. CYA is not lost, like salt, and should be measured and only added due to water loss (not evap). Keep PH at 7.5-7.8 and total alkalinity at 70-100 ppm. Only add liquid chlorine if you need to shock. Otherwise it should be trouble free.

paul
 
   / Pool equipment techs?
  • Thread Starter
#3  
1/2 HP is small for your pool size, but that should only mean slower turnover of water, but not a failure. A smaller pump has some advantages with a SWG since the quantity of chlorine is more determined by runtime. So a smaller pump running longer may actually be a better choice. To replace it finding 3/4 HP is getting hard. 1 HP seems the default. I recently picked up a Hayward 1 HP new on ebay for a little over $ 100. I did not need one now, but mine is getting old. the base rusted out and I welded up a new mount, but it is only a matter of time before rust wins.

Getting back, if the pump is stopping, it is likely the internal thermal overload. The motor is sized for the pump so it should not overload. Likely is the centrifugal start switch is bad. This means it does not kick out of the start winding and will overload. If you take apart the end of the motor, you will see the switch contacts. Sometimes lubricating the flyweight assembly (on the rotor) of filing down the contacts will fix it, but more often something in the switch breaks. It is then cheaper to replace the pump as the motor will generally cost nearly as much.

variable speed pumps are nice, but take many years to pay for themselves. In my opinion, not worth it. As for the pool, check the salt level with a salt test kit (buy one if you do not have one). Make sure you have a good test kit, like a Taylor 2005 or 2006. No need to add salt once it is at a good level. Salt is lost only by splash or pumping water out. Only small supplements should be needed. With SWG it is important to use cyanuric acid stabilizer. Try to get 50 ppm or so. It helps preserve chlorine as it is generated. CYA is not lost, like salt, and should be measured and only added due to water loss (not evap). Keep PH at 7.5-7.8 and total alkalinity at 70-100 ppm. Only add liquid chlorine if you need to shock. Otherwise it should be trouble free.

paul

Thanks Paul, Wealth of info there. Pools in Florida as you may know get very hot 92ish this time of year and they get lots of rain, which makes the pool overflow through the pipe and the pool stores say to add salt as needed. I did buy a good salt tester, $30, and it's tested regularly. Why would the pool need to be shocked w/o use? Would you recommend going to a 1hp pump or stay with the 1/2?

btw, my pool installer called it in as a warranty job as i have three Pentair products, pool and spa pumps and filter so we have a 3yr warranty. Hopefully they get to it quickly as the temps will turn it quickly.
 
   / Pool equipment techs? #4  
Thanks Paul, Wealth of info there. Pools in Florida as you may know get very hot 92ish this time of year and they get lots of rain, which makes the pool overflow through the pipe and the pool stores say to add salt as needed. I did buy a good salt tester, $30, and it's tested regularly. Why would the pool need to be shocked w/o use? Would you recommend going to a 1hp pump or stay with the 1/2?

btw, my pool installer called it in as a warranty job as i have three Pentair products, pool and spa pumps and filter so we have a 3yr warranty. Hopefully they get to it quickly as the temps will turn it quickly.

Generally you only should need to shock on the opening (i am thinking of after winter, which may not be valid in FL) of if it gets out of control and turns. With a SWG, combined chlorine is not generally an issue since the electrolysis process breaks down combined chlorine. So all of the chlorine is "free".

As for the pump, there is merit, as I stated, with lower flow will work well with a SWG which likes long run times. I think the 1/2 hp will be fine, but remember it will take longer to filter stuff due to the low flow.

paul
 
   / Pool equipment techs? #5  
1/2 HP is small for your pool size, but that should only mean slower turnover of water, but not a failure. A smaller pump has some advantages with a SWG since the quantity of chlorine is more determined by runtime. So a smaller pump running longer may actually be a better choice. To replace it finding 3/4 HP is getting hard. 1 HP seems the default. I recently picked up a Hayward 1 HP new on ebay for a little over $ 100. I did not need one now, but mine is getting old. the base rusted out and I welded up a new mount, but it is only a matter of time before rust wins. Getting back, if the pump is stopping, it is likely the internal thermal overload. The motor is sized for the pump so it should not overload. Likely is the centrifugal start switch is bad. This means it does not kick out of the start winding and will overload. If you take apart the end of the motor, you will see the switch contacts. Sometimes lubricating the flyweight assembly (on the rotor) of filing down the contacts will fix it, but more often something in the switch breaks. It is then cheaper to replace the pump as the motor will generally cost nearly as much. variable speed pumps are nice, but take many years to pay for themselves. In my opinion, not worth it. As for the pool, check the salt level with a salt test kit (buy one if you do not have one). Make sure you have a good test kit, like a Taylor 2005 or 2006. No need to add salt once it is at a good level. Salt is lost only by splash or pumping water out. Only small supplements should be needed. With SWG it is important to use cyanuric acid stabilizer. Try to get 50 ppm or so. It helps preserve chlorine as it is generated. CYA is not lost, like salt, and should be measured and only added due to water loss (not evap). Keep PH at 7.5-7.8 and total alkalinity at 70-100 ppm. Only add liquid chlorine if you need to shock. Otherwise it should be trouble free. paul

I purchased a two speed, 1 hp pump this spring to use with my SWP, it cost about $100 more but has already paid for itself. I only use the high speed when I clean the pool.
 
   / Pool equipment techs?
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Update.
The manufacturer of the pump repaired it Friday and all appears to be fine.

I really like the SWP and appreciate the low maintenance.
 
   / Pool equipment techs? #7  
I purchased a two speed, 1 hp pump this spring to use with my SWP, it cost about $100 more but has already paid for itself. I only use the high speed when I clean the pool.

I agree as the two speed pumps are not much adder over a conventional. The variable speed unit however are outrageously expensive, and not worth it for the savings.

paul
 
   / Pool equipment techs? #8  
Don't disagree with anything you've said. I do love my jandy variable speed. Sooo much quieter after the sweeper finishes and I don't have to listen to it all day. Who knows the total cost, pools aren't the most cost effective decision. Gal of acid every week, big bag of baking soda once a month, gal of phos free and gal of conditioner every year.. Havent added salt in abt 3 yrs.

You kinda lose the extra cost of a variable speed after the slide, waterfall, grotto, water feature pump, outdoor kitchen, fire pit............

Watching your kids enjoy it and cooling off when temps over 100 degrees...... Priceless. :)
 
   / Pool equipment techs? #9  
Don't disagree with anything you've said. I do love my jandy variable speed. Sooo much quieter after the sweeper finishes and I don't have to listen to it all day. Who knows the total cost, pools aren't the most cost effective decision. Gal of acid every week, big bag of baking soda once a month, gal of phos free and gal of conditioner every year.. Havent added salt in abt 3 yrs.

You kinda lose the extra cost of a variable speed after the slide, waterfall, grotto, water feature pump, outdoor kitchen, fire pit............

Watching your kids enjoy it and cooling off when temps over 100 degrees...... Priceless. :)

Gal of acid every week??
 
 
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