Poor cab heat

[BTDT]

Sorry to hear that after all you've been through. Maybe(??) the new shop will get you fixed up without a lot of hassle. I hate to see anyone lose their job, but maybe some of those folks needed to go. John Deere got a lot of bad publicity out of your misfortune.

 

[radman1]

Sorry to hear that after all you've been through. Maybe(??) the new shop will get you fixed up without a lot of hassle. I hate to see anyone lose their job, but maybe some of those folks needed to go. John Deere got a lot of bad publicity out of your misfortune.

After further talk with my Jd dealer, they said JD corp took away their ability to sell tractors which effectively put them out of business. This place had been in business about 5-6 years. They said JD corp didn't want a business in this area. Seems weird. Lincoln, NE has over 250,000 people and the only other CUT dealer sells kubota. It seemed like they sold quite a few tractor and didn't have many new tractors just sitting around. Next closest JD dealer is about 25 miles from here and they sell mostly ag. Heck, they just hired 2 more shop techs in the past 2 weeks and a new business manager 2 months ago. Why would you hire more guys if you knew your going out of business? The new business manager just moved from Oklahoma.

 

[gemini5362]

If I was going to take a guess I would say that maybe the other buisness that is 25 miles away has been there longer or sells more tractors or is married to the district reps cousin. This sounds to me like JD felt there were too many dealers in too close of a proximity to each other.

 

[dirtworksequip]

radman,
Several years ago I know that Deere was telling dealers they either had to upgrade their stores or go out of business. I know of at least 4 dealers that decided to go out of business and 2 that went with the upgraded stores. This is probably what has happened to the store closest to you.

As far as the other store goes it has always been my experience that the dealers that have mostly AG equipment actually have better mechanics and parts people and they give better and more reliable service on the CUT's too. They just seem to have a better understanding of their product.

Hope this is the case with the other dealer.

 

[radman1]

dirtwordsequip and gemini5362
yea, the other JD dealers in the area have been in business longer. The store going out of business was built all new 5-6 years ago and they have a very nice building and lot. The next JD dealer is not that far away but still the convenience factor will be missed. When I bought my 3720, the local guys were about $2500 cheaper than other JD dealers I checked.

 

[turbo36]

Update: This is the latest response from my dealer:


"Currently reported with JD is your case and 2 from Nebraska. All 3 had the roof off for stereo installs. ( if there are others, please have them contact their dealer and report their concerns as we have) The only difference between 3520 and 3720 is an intercooler on the engine and air cleaner assembly. They want us to come back down next week block off cab air filter so only inside air is being circulated. We will also remove roof and make sure sealant foam has not been compromised.

He said when they tested in Hurley Wisconsin it was minus 16, run rpms up to engine temp and driver was in short sleeves. But if they compromised the roof so outside air was being drawn thru in places not acceptable it would dramatically cool down the temp. He believes this is what is going on."

Radman, did you have a stereo installed?
Other then Radman and myself I don't know of any others that have a heat problem. Are there others that haven't posted?

 

[joebobharley]

radman,
I've been watching all of these posts with particular interest. I have a 4320 w/cab which for the most part would be virtually identical to the 3x20 series cabs. The main reason that this thread sparked my interest is that my machine also exhibits tendencies to be slow to heat even in this mild winter that we are having and I live in EC Alabama. While my issue is not as serious as yours, I have observed a direct relation w/ outside airtemp and eng temp. If the temperature is in the upper 30's to low 40's, it's hard to get the engine up to temp unless I have a load of some kind on it. If the engine temp is in the low range of the band, then it takes cranking the heater control wide open to get warm air in the cabin. Now, as I have stated, my problem seems to be minor compared to yours, but I still see some of the symptoms.

I have also had the roof of the tractor off for stereo installation and was very particular about sealing the cabin top. I certainly don't want to down play what JD corp is trying to accomplish, but you would have to have a major seal problem to pull in enough air at the outside temps that have been discussed to cause the problem you have seen. I don't believe that is the root cause of the issue.

Richard

Update: This is the latest response from my dealer:


"Currently reported with JD is your case and 2 from Nebraska. All 3 had the roof off for stereo installs. ( if there are others, please have them contact their dealer and report their concerns as we have) The only difference between 3520 and 3720 is an intercooler on the engine and air cleaner assembly. They want us to come back down next week block off cab air filter so only inside air is being circulated. We will also remove roof and make sure sealant foam has not been compromised.

He said when they tested in Hurley Wisconsin it was minus 16, run rpms up to engine temp and driver was in short sleeves. But if they compromised the roof so outside air was being drawn thru in places not acceptable it would dramatically cool down the temp. He believes this is what is going on."

Radman, did you have a stereo installed?
Other then Radman and myself I don't know of any others that have a heat problem. Are there others that haven't posted?

 

[radman1]

Turbo36
Yes, I did have the cab stereo installed by the dealer. I assume you still have the cab heat problem? I still don't think that is the reason. Even with the fan off, heater controlled knob turned all the way down, and sitting in my shed where there is no wind, I still can't get it to heat up. How can there be a big air leak with those kind of parameters? With those conditions, there is basically no air movement anywhere around the top of the cab/heater. Clamp the return hose and quickly see the heat rise. Unclamp the return hose and temp falls within minutes. Why did they just tell my dealer 2 weeks ago to try adjusting the injector timing? They don't have a clue and are guessing but the problem seems to be very few in number.

 

[radman1]

Tomorrow, I am going to do my own trouble shooting. I am going to drain the antifreeze (this is about the 5th time), and remove the return heater hose from the lower radiator hose "T" fitting. Splice on a longer hose and reroute it into the left side of the engine block where my engine plug heater is located. I bought a 1" to 3/4" pipe thread adapter to fit into the engine block and then will screw in a 3/4" pipe to 5/8" hose connector. Replace the antifreeze and see if that fixes the problem. I'll post the results of my readings with infrared temp gun.

 

[dwmaster]

I helped install my radio. They could be on to something if it was not put back together right. The way the system works is the entire roof cavity is pressurized, it is not a ducted system. Air could easily escape out the seem in the roof if not sealed right as well.