Pop in FEL Curl Cylinder in my BX25D - Bucket uncurls on own weight

[radioman]

its not hard to service the cylinders yourself. however have you rechecked your middle cylinder hoses on the mounting block quick connects to make sure the hoses are hooked up tight? i also want to make sure the hoses are hooked up by color correctly... if they were - lets just say somehow they were switched with the fel up and down cylinders -- maybe the detent up is making it go into relief --- giving you that pop.
but you say you have to keep curling it so i doubt it .

so - check the hoses connection first. if they appear to be good - i would take the middle cylinder out and take a look . the hardest part of the whole job is to take the end off with a correct spanner wrench. i am sure the 0 rings and or wiper rings is torn inside .

 

[analog]

I did check the hoses and the quick connects. Everything is fine as far as that is concerned. I'm certain it's in the cylinder. I ordered a tool that the service manual talks about to open it up, an adjustable gland nut wrench. I also checked the piston rod with the bucket fully uncurled and it's straight. So I guess the next step is to get it off and get it taken apart and see what's what.

Can someone answer this for me please, I'm assuming it's best to curl the bucket and then remove cylinder? It doesn't specify in the service manual. I would assume I would and the steps might then be:

Curl the bucket
Lower the boom to the ground
Disconnect the hydraulic quick connects
Remove the hydraulic line at the top first then the second
Unpin the cylinder and remove

Is that reasonable or is there something better I should be doing?

Again, thanks for all the advice, and yeah I should read the manual better, I am sure the part about dragging the bucket is in there. Thanks to the guy who sent the backdragging video.

 

[dodge man]

I would think you would want the bucket flat on the ground so there is no pressure on the system. Not sure though.

 

[Spanner]

"Curl the bucket
Lower the boom to the ground
Switch-off engine.
Operate joystick in all four directions to release all hydraulic pressure in hoses.
Disconnect the hydraulic quick connects
Remove the hydraulic line at the top first then the second
Unpin the cylinder and remove

Is that reasonable or is there something better I should be doing?"

 

[newbury]

Thanks. If I buy a gland and nut wrench, I should be able to take it apart and see if the rod is bent, right? By the way, what I was actually doing was along the lines of this:

Homemade trencher digging trench for cables - YouTube

I feel like I put more pressure on it doing other things, but maybe not

That video is down right TRACTOR ABUSE!!

Think of the leverage and if you hit a rock.

Why in heck didn't he drag that with the 3pt?

Might as well hook a plow to the bucket. and plow backwards.

 

[analog]

I was doing it where there aren't any rocks either. I'm sure I just had too steep of an angle, but I certainly am going to do something different this time. I think what I'll do instead is mount it to the back of my box scraper, using a piece of wood to get the angle on it and then just drag it around.

Another question, the manual refers to a sliding jig and a correcting jig, which are pictured in the general section but no part number is given in either location. Are these really necessary? And is there a certain type of assembly grease I should be using?

 

[analog]

I took the cylinder off on Sunday. Called this morning and the hydraulic shop wants $50 just to open it up and diagnose it. They say if it's just the seals they will charge me $250-300, which kind of blew me away considering others have said that job might take 20 minutes, and a new kubota seal kit is around a hundred. They said they can order seals for it for less than kubota would charge, so their labor rates are just through the roof. I already ordered the gland nut wrench so I'm going to try to open it myself and see if I can figure out what's wrong. A whole new cylinder will cost me $430+shipping. I feel like I have nothing to lose by giving it a go.

 

[Egon]

If you got the cylinder off can you pull out the ram?

 

[analog]

You mean the piston? I meant I took the cylinder assembly off the tractor. Now I have to get the cap off with that wrench.

 

[LD1]

No not the Piston. The ram.....or cylinder rod.

No need to remove the gland nut for what is being asked.

Try to pull the rod out (extend the cylinder). Hydraulic ports have to be open and unhooked, and oil will come out rod port when you pull the rod out. Have a bucket to not make a mess.

If you pull the rod, it should stop when fully extended, this is the Piston (inside) hitting the gland cap and being retained.

If the rod pulls all the way out....which is what we are wanting to see, it means the Piston became detached from the rod. Might have just come unthreaded, or might have broke