ljh2
Gold Member
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Portable Log Mill
- Thread starter scottbrrtt72
- Start date
- Views: 5950
Chadtoolio
Member
Scott,
UHMW can be had at Woodworkerssuply.com or woodcraft.com and can be milled into anything you want. 3/4" sheets are common. I have used it on my compost bin pivot, table saw mobile base. I have also used it on my router table fence. You can thread it, cut it and machine it very well. The threaded rod/motor will work well, but will be expensive. I like the idea of pulling up on both sides with the same force or lifting from both sides at one time. One side could never get further ahead than the other. At this point in the game, I know your frustrated, but the handle on the back to correct for a problem will not make you happy in the long run. You have come a long way. I was inspired when I read the post on your project many months ago and now it is my time to return the favor. Just take deep breaths, your almost there.
HTH,
Chad
Edit: After seing the post above mine, I thought I should clarify my opinion of lifting both sides at the same time. Imagine a rod mounted on pillow blocks on the top of your entire saw frame. cable reels on both ends(so that each side could have an independant cable). The cable reels would have their cables go straight down and attach to the sliding saw assembly. On one side of the rod would go your handle for the winch and the rod locking assembly(same priciple as the winches). When you turned the handle the rod would turn the cable reels the same amount and raise the sides the same amount.
The other way and perhaps more simple one would be to use your same winch(mounted in the center of the upper frame) like one of the first poster's suggested. Have two seperate cables come off it pivoting at the upper corners with pulleys and then going to the sliding saw assembly.
And third, same principle as #2 but put the winch at one side eliminating the need for one of the pulleys since it could drop straight down from the winch. The other cable would simply go through the pulley and the opposite side of the frame and drop down to the other side of the sliding saw assembly.
UHMW can be had at Woodworkerssuply.com or woodcraft.com and can be milled into anything you want. 3/4" sheets are common. I have used it on my compost bin pivot, table saw mobile base. I have also used it on my router table fence. You can thread it, cut it and machine it very well. The threaded rod/motor will work well, but will be expensive. I like the idea of pulling up on both sides with the same force or lifting from both sides at one time. One side could never get further ahead than the other. At this point in the game, I know your frustrated, but the handle on the back to correct for a problem will not make you happy in the long run. You have come a long way. I was inspired when I read the post on your project many months ago and now it is my time to return the favor. Just take deep breaths, your almost there.
HTH,
Chad
Edit: After seing the post above mine, I thought I should clarify my opinion of lifting both sides at the same time. Imagine a rod mounted on pillow blocks on the top of your entire saw frame. cable reels on both ends(so that each side could have an independant cable). The cable reels would have their cables go straight down and attach to the sliding saw assembly. On one side of the rod would go your handle for the winch and the rod locking assembly(same priciple as the winches). When you turned the handle the rod would turn the cable reels the same amount and raise the sides the same amount.
The other way and perhaps more simple one would be to use your same winch(mounted in the center of the upper frame) like one of the first poster's suggested. Have two seperate cables come off it pivoting at the upper corners with pulleys and then going to the sliding saw assembly.
And third, same principle as #2 but put the winch at one side eliminating the need for one of the pulleys since it could drop straight down from the winch. The other cable would simply go through the pulley and the opposite side of the frame and drop down to the other side of the sliding saw assembly.
SPIKER
Elite Member
sorry I didn't get back, been having some female problems. dam woman and girls fighting and I'm stuck in middle one went to jail and such...
anyhow UHMW is a plastic, it can be bought in small parts from mcmastercarr. or larger qties and special shapes form (cleveland plastics) where we get ours, not sure but look under industrial plastic in a google search on line and 1,000.00 will show up. anyhow time to get moving again.
Mark M
/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
anyhow UHMW is a plastic, it can be bought in small parts from mcmastercarr. or larger qties and special shapes form (cleveland plastics) where we get ours, not sure but look under industrial plastic in a google search on line and 1,000.00 will show up. anyhow time to get moving again.
Mark M
/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
Good to hear from you again Scotty! Looks like you are coming right along on the hard part. This beast looks great. I probably cannot offer any more advice to you Than the others already have. But don't give up, it's not supposed to be easy. Just fun. Call me.
treesmiths
New member
Hi,
I have a portable mill like you are building. My hand winch goes to a pulley attached to a 1" rod mounted on pillow blocks above the saw head on the main frame. 2 seperate cables drilled and attached on the rod drop down to the sliding posts and attach to threaded eye bolts (for adjustment). Gravity ensures an even, parallel cut with the saw bed every time. I would suggest mounting all of your hardware and weight to ensure a good balance point, not just for the side to side issue, but for a good front to back balance as well. A single cable could never insure an even cut as the carriage will rock slightly from side to side depending on the load, knots etc.. I have an 18 hp kohler on mine and it works well, but more hp might do an even better job on the big logs, up to 42" capacity on my Berg mill. You will need to be able to adjust the carriage end to end as well for blade alignment. If the carriage is off by just a fraction, the blade will dip and dig in or lift up and want to pull out. Good luck with your adventure. Keep us posted /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
I have a portable mill like you are building. My hand winch goes to a pulley attached to a 1" rod mounted on pillow blocks above the saw head on the main frame. 2 seperate cables drilled and attached on the rod drop down to the sliding posts and attach to threaded eye bolts (for adjustment). Gravity ensures an even, parallel cut with the saw bed every time. I would suggest mounting all of your hardware and weight to ensure a good balance point, not just for the side to side issue, but for a good front to back balance as well. A single cable could never insure an even cut as the carriage will rock slightly from side to side depending on the load, knots etc.. I have an 18 hp kohler on mine and it works well, but more hp might do an even better job on the big logs, up to 42" capacity on my Berg mill. You will need to be able to adjust the carriage end to end as well for blade alignment. If the carriage is off by just a fraction, the blade will dip and dig in or lift up and want to pull out. Good luck with your adventure. Keep us posted /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
OP
scottbrrtt72
Bronze Member
LStone, good to hear from you!!! It has been a while. Glad to see you on TBN.
Yes, the mill is coming along, slow but sure. This part of the project has been the most fustrating. However, with all this advice I think it can get it to work. I would like to thank everyone for there support and advice. Hopefully, I will get to work on it this weekend.
Yes, the mill is coming along, slow but sure. This part of the project has been the most fustrating. However, with all this advice I think it can get it to work. I would like to thank everyone for there support and advice. Hopefully, I will get to work on it this weekend.
