Possible to use a slip clutch on the tractor side of a PTO shaft?

[dex3361]

An education is expensive but it pays off in the long run, or at least thats one way of looking at it.

 

[greg_g]

no, that is the clutch only. the shaft was another $199.

They saw you comin'. The stuff I pointed you towards earlier goes for as little as $83 (clutch only), $100 (shaft only). They also sell pre-fab combos (shaft+clutch).
SLIP CLUTCH W/1-3/8X6 MALE X 1-3/8X6 - Agri Supply
TX1 660 PTO SHAFT-45 3/8 OA LENGTH - Agri Supply

Anyway, back to your original question - no. Despite advertising that might lead you to believe otherwise - I strongly recommend against keeping a slip clutch on the tractor end.

//greg//

 

[Willl]

I strongly recommend against keeping a slip clutch on the tractor end.

Why ?

 

[greg_g]

Why ?

Biggest reason? Safety. These slip clutches are primarily CUT and utility tractor devices. Many CUT and utility tractor PTO safety shields lack sufficient clearance, hence the temptation to remove them. That leaves six exposed and spinning springs that do a pretty good job of representing an accident just waiting to happen.

Safety aside - there are potential technical issues as well. Some are intended for use as a driven clutch only. When on the implement end, you have a counter-clockwise driven clutch. But move it to the tractor end, and now you have a clockwise drive clutch. Others have presented a yoke angle argument, stating that there's more potential for driveline vibration with the clutch up at the tractor end. A tractor-mounted slip clutch also means shortening all the PTO shafts to which it will connect. I'm sure there are more justifiable reasons, but I think these will do for a start.

//greg//

 

[bill333]

yeah, TSC is expensive, and I usually buy everything on line. that agri supply slip clutch looks exactly like what I got. The problem for us newbies is that the descriptions on these websites leave a lot to be desired. (although that slip clutch seems pretty clear). I was also thinking I could get it all set up in one day and I really needed to get my pasture mowed, and that was a week ago. live and learn.

 

[Bedlam]

that e bay one looks suspiciously close to being this unit
Harbor Freight Tools

Probably they dont even have it untill someone buys it then they get it from HF and resell at a good profit.

 

[willfick]

yeah, TSC is expensive, and I usually buy everything on line. that agri supply slip clutch looks exactly like what I got. The problem for us newbies is that the descriptions on these websites leave a lot to be desired. (although that slip clutch seems pretty clear). I was also thinking I could get it all set up in one day and I really needed to get my pasture mowed, and that was a week ago. live and learn.

I get the part about it helps to see what you're getting, although sometimes I don't know what I should be looking for.
I recently got one of the slip clutches from Agri Supply, and it's working fine for me now. But I failed to notice that on the male end the slip clutch had only the grooves in the splines for the snap coupling, not a hole for a pin or bolt; likewise on the female end there were two (nicely heavy) bolts to fit in grooves, no hole for a pin. My old mower and pto shaft had holes for bolts, no grooves or snaps. I ordered adapters for each side of the slip clutch, only about $22 apiece, but when I put them on I was unhappy (concerned? scared?) with how far out they hung the weight of the clutch from the gearbox, and how it vibrated (flopped around?) when I got it up to speed.
Anyway, I drilled a hole in the slip clutch male end shaft (Yikes!) and used the side grinder to make grooves in the gear box shaft. I should have tried that first, but I had (with no reason) assumed that the shafts would be unworkably hard steel. They were easy.
I may have another use for the adapters. Really.
Wm

 

[Steve C]

yeah, TSC is expensive, and I usually buy everything on line. that agri supply slip clutch looks exactly like what I got. The problem for us newbies is that the descriptions on these websites leave a lot to be desired. (although that slip clutch seems pretty clear). I was also thinking I could get it all set up in one day and I really needed to get my pasture mowed, and that was a week ago. live and learn.

Congratulations Bill the most important part is in the end you overcame the problem, and won the battle saving an otherwise good piece of equipment from the scrap yard. For some strange reason when I run into a problem like yours I can't stop working on it untill I have either solved the problem or ruined it beyond all chance of repair. But since it is already ruined the only chance you have is to make it better

Sometimes the simplest solutions are the ones that we don't even think about especially when we already have the "proper tools for the job", I.E. gearpuller, such as using a sawsall or side grinder with a cut off wheel or even a circular saw with a metal cutting abrasive wheel to cut a slot completely through the coupler parallel to the shaft. Once you get the slot cut you can drive in a cold chisel as a wedge to spread the diameter of the coupling alowing the penetrating oil to reach the rust. It is time consuming but isn't hard work. This only works of course if you don't mind destroying the origional part. I have used this method several times, it always works.

I once used a circular saw to cut lengths of 6 x 6 x 1/2 angle iron to build a hitch for my motor home. My torch was out of gas, my grinder was burned up I didn't own a chop saw and I wanted to get it done without making a trip into town. Wow that was a noisy process

The maintenance pipe fitters at Dow chemical recomend something called PB-Blaster for rusted parts. It seems to actually disolve rust if you can get it to it.

Of course there is great satisfaction to be had by just beating it into submission like you did, once again congratulations. you won!!!!

 

[deerhunterf350]

I have not used this product, http://loctitefreezeandrelease.com/
but it seems that it would be a great product to use in areas that cannot be heated. It is supposed to freeze the object to -45 degrees, and then draws a lubricant in between the rusted area.

If anyone has used this or something similar please let us know if it works like advertised.

 

[bill333]

I get the part about it helps to see what you're getting, although sometimes I don't know what I should be looking for.
I recently got one of the slip clutches from Agri Supply, and it's working fine for me now. But I failed to notice that on the male end the slip clutch had only the grooves in the splines for the snap coupling, not a hole for a pin or bolt; likewise on the female end there were two (nicely heavy) bolts to fit in grooves, no hole for a pin. My old mower and pto shaft had holes for bolts, no grooves or snaps. I ordered adapters for each side of the slip clutch, only about $22 apiece, but when I put them on I was unhappy (concerned? scared?) with how far out they hung the weight of the clutch from the gearbox, and how it vibrated (flopped around?) when I got it up to speed.
Anyway, I drilled a hole in the slip clutch male end shaft (Yikes!) and used the side grinder to make grooves in the gear box shaft. I should have tried that first, but I had (with no reason) assumed that the shafts would be unworkably hard steel. They were easy.
I may have another use for the adapters. Really.
Wm

I have a lot of 'stuff' around that I bought, thinking it was the right thing I needed (even after hours of research) only to find it wasn't, and that I "might need it someday." Unfortunately sometimes I DO need it someday, for something, which makes me hestitate to ever throw anything out.

I know how you feel. At the risk of getting everyone flaming mad at me, I get a little frustrated with this tractor stuff sometime because what I would think of as real basic ways of doing things aren't done. As just one example, why aren't sizes stamped on PTO shaft yokes? Why should I have to bring a micrometer to the store to figure out what yoke to get? I know a lot is just experience that comes over time, but a lot of this could be made much easier (how you have to put diesel in my tractor is someone's idea of a cruel joke, but that is another topic...)